car wont start!!!

[M4_lgnd]

my car wouldnt start on friday night, had AAA try to jump start it and nothing. they said my battery is fine but it could be my starter.

has anyone had this problem before?

any input will help. thanks!

[ShocknAwe]

How long did they leave the jumper leads on there. If the battery is really far gone it won't start immediately and needs ~5 mins or so.

Does it try to crank over?

[NorthernDancer]

You need to learn to use a simple digital voltmeter. Not nearly enough info to really help you out.

[M4_lgnd]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

How long did they leave the jumper leads on there. If the battery is really far gone it won't start immediately and needs ~5 mins or so.

Does it try to crank over?

they left the jumpers for over 15mins.

[juld0zer]

Check the positive lead FROM the jump start terminal. Ie the lead that goes to the starter and alternator, via the wide black plastic cover over the engine on an N54 or clipped to the engine cover on an N55. Give it a wiggle and tug near the heatshrink

They can fray and break at the crimped ring terminal, no matter how strong the jump starter, no high current gets to the starter. All you get is the faint click of the solenoid - but if you dont get the faint click either, then it could be other issues. I hear some E90s wont crank due to faulty IBS sensors on the negative terminal too

[n2djazz]

Originally Posted by M4_lgnd

my car wouldnt start on friday night, had AAA try to jump start it and nothing. they said my battery is fine but it could be my starter.

has anyone had this problem before?

any input will help. thanks!

I've had this issue, twice about 15 months apart. The first time was with my original battery. I had the battery replaced shortly thereafter. The 2nd time was recently. Each time, I pressed the button and got nothing...not even an attempt to turn the engine over. After pressing the button several more times, the car started as if nothing ever happened. After the car started, I got absolutely no warnings. I put my MOVI diagnostics sw on the car and there were no trouble codes. I'm thinking of changing out the IBS cable. But I'd like to hear from other who have had this problem.

Did you get your problem fixed? If so, what was the problem?

[drwillb]

Jazz, I had the same problem as you and OP. Turned out to be a frayed +12v lead to the starter. As it got worse higher current was required and eventually fried the wire and killed the starter.

Cost me $1200 for diagnostic time, labor, new stater, and repair the fried lead. There were no fault codes of any kind.

Similar to when the water pump went. The dealer couldn’t find any codes and the pump was failing but not dead so it could idle and putt around without overheating.

[vinylengraver]

Just a shot in the dark, but IF the battery is fine (all electronic functions are OK and no warnings) could it be clutch position/neutral safety switch?
Is your transmission manual or auto?

[Dthltm]

I had my starter replaced 3 weeks back. Then it wouldnt start again...this time they said it was the main positive power cable...which likely was the issue the first time. Happy to have a warranty.

[drwillb]

There you go, 12v lead to starter.

The indie that took care of my car said same thing: the wire was shot underneath the insulation but wasn’t visible from looking at it. No external burn on the insulation.

Yes, it could also be something as easy as the clutch pedal depress switch.

[HyeWarrior]

My starter went out around 65k miles for what it’s worth

[Mr Gasser]

basically have to remove the intake to get to the starter. Pretty easy after that.