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10-30-2009, 06:18 PM | #1 |
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Front Sways, Rears Sways, or Both?
What will improve handling the most? Front sways, rear sways, or both?
It seems like only doing the front is the most popular choice but why is nobody doing both? What is the effect of doing this on an otherwise stock car? At this stage I can't afford to invest money in some coilovers so springs will have to do for now. What does everyone recommend? I would appreciate hearing as many informed opinions as possible to help me make the right choice. My car will be 95% time on the street. For those of you that have already given me some insight, I really appreciate your help. |
10-30-2009, 06:39 PM | #2 |
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http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302722
did you read this thread? lots of info and answers to your questions.
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10-30-2009, 06:43 PM | #3 |
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I've read through that thread a few times. I just wanted more insight in front sways vs both sways. I've seen someone mention that by putting on the rear sways it will induce snap oversteer?
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10-30-2009, 06:43 PM | #4 |
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My car is stock apart from Yoko AD08's (Best tyres I ever used).
Got H&R sways installed on Monday. Well it is like driving a different car. Roll induced understeer is almost completely eliminated. Rear bar is around 5 times stiffer. It still wobbles a bit but only when you really chuck it around which I couldn't at all before. Still needs dampers to be changed and M3 bits to help get rid of the chassis slop after changing from RFT's. Ride is actually better than before as it doesn't jiggle side to side anymore over our crap Aussie roads. Get em. |
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10-30-2009, 06:47 PM | #5 |
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Oh my car feels really balanced now.
So i think you need both sways. One only will fix half the problem unless you do something else to counter it. Like getting front bar but increasing rear spring rates heaps to stop roll but this will ride pretty average. |
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10-30-2009, 06:57 PM | #6 |
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Thanks for the input, the H&R's sound like a really good option. What was the install like? I've heard that the rear is a pain to install and very time consuming. Did it cost you much or did you do it yourself?
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10-31-2009, 01:40 AM | #8 |
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Sweet. That sounds fairly reasonable. I keep changing my mind but I'm set on the H&R Sport Springs and H&R Front and Rear Sway Bars unless somebody can tell me otherwise. I would think these parts would work well together.
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10-31-2009, 10:39 AM | #9 |
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I've added the Hotchkis front sway bar only, and it did help reduce body lean a lot. But I'm thinking about adding an H&R rear bar at some point to further help the body lean. I've still running stock springs an shocks, and I'm not looking to have a real aggressive suspension setup yet.
So I'd say go for them both, and let us know how you like them.
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10-31-2009, 12:04 PM | #10 |
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would it be a good idea to mix and match the hotchkis front with the h&r reaar?
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10-31-2009, 05:04 PM | #11 | |
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Although, I read somewhere that the Hotchikis bar is hollow and the H&R is not so I don't know what effect this will have. I'm pretty sure Hotchikis make a rear sway bar anyway. |
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10-31-2009, 05:40 PM | #13 |
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10-31-2009, 06:46 PM | #14 |
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IMO just get the front sway. Front sway reduced understeer by not allowing the front to roll over into positive camber. The rear actually does not roll into positive camber due to its geometry (read J tylers thread in the autocross/drag section). Also the Front bar moves weight to the inside rear tire on a turn which allows you much greater exit speed. I dont think you will actually gain anything from the rear bar at all. It will only reduce rear grip and what you really want to do is increase front grip. Think about that......reduced grip......you dont want that! Not only that theoretical BS, but today I finished 1st or 2nd (don't know exactly which one yet) in class C, normally of which I finish 7-8 (middle of the road) after only swapping out the front sway with the 26.5 mm M3 bar. so smoke on that.
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10-31-2009, 07:14 PM | #15 |
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I installed just a front sway and ran with that for around 4 months (and several autox) before I installed the rear bar. I found the rear bar balanced out the car. Just the front bar made for quicker initial turn in but made for more understeer at corner exit. Also, several people watched me while autox and they said I lifted a wheel with just the front car. Adding the rear bar removed the corner exit understeer caused by the front bar only and now all 4 wheels now stay on the ground around the corners.
I have the UUC sways. Install of the rear bar was $400. |
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10-31-2009, 07:37 PM | #16 |
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I have both F&R H&R sway bars. I intstalled them myself and it didn't take too long to do them. Most people shy away from doing the rear but it wasn't a big deal to do. I have read where most install the front but still want to do the rear, IMHO do both and enjoy.
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10-31-2009, 09:03 PM | #17 | |||
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Do you experience any oversteer at all or does the car turn in and turn out perfectly now similar to that of AWD? I've never tracked my car before but at times I do drive aggressively and take corners pretty hard but I would rather be on the understeer side than the oversteer for safety reasons until I gain some more experience at the track. Also, can you please confirm that the $400 installation was just for the rear bar itself? Quote:
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10-31-2009, 09:17 PM | #18 | |
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My car has stock springs/shocks. I do have the M tension rods front and rear. On the street you would probably be happy with just the front but at the limit you need the rear end to rotate. The rear bar does not cause any oversteer. It just helps neutralize the late corner understeer from the front bar only. I know most people have said that adding the front bar will reduce understeer. My experience is that it reduces understeer on initial turn in but is the same (or worse) on mid-corner and corner exit. Again, that is just me at the autox. I could have lived with that but the lifting of a wheel was what made me put the rear bar on. IMO, the car needs to be balanced front and rear when driving at 10/10ths. |
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10-31-2009, 10:32 PM | #19 | |
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10-31-2009, 11:41 PM | #20 | |
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AW 135i w/ blackette, performance short shift kit, BMW alarm, Performance rotors, APEX ARC-8 wheels, Direzza Star Spec 235/275, Dinan stage 3 suspension, M3 wishbones/tension rods/front sway/rear subframe bushings and thats all folks! |
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11-01-2009, 12:05 AM | #21 | |
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11-02-2009, 12:54 PM | #22 |
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I have been debating on the same situation. So I try something different, I start playing with suspension settings on GT5P. I know is not a real car but outcome should be close.
After a lot of different sets of configs pretty much all ends on how you like the car to behave vs. you driving style. Explanation. I had good success by power slide thru corners to get better lap times. The settings were stiffer rear. Obviously I lose traction so the car over steer and then gun it. With some practice I got to time it perfectly but I would not dare to do it on the streets (I don’t have a track close by), plus I would eat the tires. Also noticed that if I were driving using grip I could not accelerate strong enough(in turns) w/o under steer; really frustrating. Then change to stiffer in the front. Wow, really different. Now the car keeps the desired path during the apex and can gun it for a fast exit (using grip). The power slides are more difficult to execute, I have more grip so had to go like a mad man to pull the slide all the way thru the turn. But is easy enough to get the proper angle and fly thru the turns (less dramatic slide). Over all had better, more consistent times. Then stiffen both. Now the car felt more like default, can’t drive fast enough in turns due to over steer. Had more traction than default but less than the front alone. As far by my tests I had better results with just the front, it felt like another car. It’s not a real life test but is a good synthetic benchmark. All depends on what you like, I believe. Dr3K0 |
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