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      01-30-2013, 12:40 PM   #1
bogart
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2011 BMW 135i  [7.06]
Bye bye wrap, bye bye carbon fiber, hello refinished BBS

I figured it's been a while since I started an epic thread. For instance my BBS LM thread has over 7,500 views and the vinyl wrap thread has over 16,500 views. So... it's time to start a new project.

Here's a preview:
- Remove wrap
- Paint hood and trunk to match
- Refinish wheels

Already started removing the wrap. Some tips:
- Wait until it's about 60 degrees or warmer
- Have a bunch of plastic razor blades handy
- Get some 3M adhesive remover to take off residue

Man is it nice to go back to perfect, fresh paint... Will post pictures soon of that process.

Wheels have been disassembled and cleaned:

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Bolts, nuts, and studs are heading out to get platted:

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Corrosion has been removed:

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Ready for tire removal:

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Next up is sanding from 180 grit through 2000 grit wet sand.

Lastly will be final polish and clear coat.

Centers are being prepped for powder coating.

Debating a reverse mount... however, would be extremely aggressive, dare I say never been done on a 1-series before.

18x9 et40, reverse mounted to et24
18x10 et50, reverse mounted to et34

Going to run Hankook Ventus V12 215/40 and 245/35

I will leave y'all with that information until the next post
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      01-30-2013, 12:55 PM   #2
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Looking forward to this. Good luck on your new project!
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      01-30-2013, 01:13 PM   #3
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Just an addition.

Instead of waiting for it to be 60 degrees out, you "could" grab a hair dryer and heat the vinyl. It would probably take about 10 minutes to heat the entire sheet up, but it would do the trick.
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      01-30-2013, 02:04 PM   #4
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2011 BMW 135i  [7.06]
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrClean514 View Post
Just an addition.

Instead of waiting for it to be 60 degrees out, you "could" grab a hair dryer and heat the vinyl. It would probably take about 10 minutes to heat the entire sheet up, but it would do the trick.
I have a heat gun. Used it. You'd be surprised how much easier it is when the ambient temp is higher.
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      01-30-2013, 02:07 PM   #5
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sweet mother of god those off sets are going to be insane.. I like it and await pictures.
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      01-30-2013, 02:09 PM   #6
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2008 BMW 128i  [10.00]
noo, the wrap was beautiful.

Goodluck
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"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      01-30-2013, 03:17 PM   #7
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GL with those offsets, gotta be tough to pull off without some serious work. Looking forward to more pictures.
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      01-30-2013, 03:44 PM   #8
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awsomeeeeeeeeeeeee get them pics up already
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      01-30-2013, 03:57 PM   #9
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2011 BMW 135i  [7.06]
Ivory skull valve stem caps?

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      01-30-2013, 05:01 PM   #10
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WHY?!?!?! Are you removing the wrap????

It looked amazing.


Cant wait to see the wheels though.
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      01-30-2013, 05:15 PM   #11
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Oooh yes. I'm excited for all of this.
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      01-30-2013, 05:16 PM   #12
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I had 19x9 et32 and 19x9.5 et33, I'm sure with camber arms in the rear it would work and I have -3 camber in the front and could of fit another 5 mill but yea that'd be reall aggressive but would look crazyy
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      01-30-2013, 08:43 PM   #13
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2011 BMW 135i  [7.06]
I'm sure the wrap removal after only having it on about a year is a shock to everyone, especially the people that followed the process and I'm really sad to see it go too, but I'm doing it for a few reasons.

1. Vinyl is incredibly soft and doesn't "wear" well. Definitely not as durable or easily repairable as clear-coated paint.
2. Some idiot pulled into a parking spot next to me recently and just barely skimmed my car leaving a mar down the side.
3. The week after I wrapped one of the doors someone swung their door into mine and fucked up the wrap. It's been patched ever since and always bothered me.
4. A tree branch fell during a storm and put a dent in my roof so I have to get that fixed. Going to do that when I get the hood and trunk painted.
5. People suck at parallel parking and use the "touch and feel" approach. Leaving marks in the rear and front bumper vinyl.
6. The rear bumper was done in two pieces with a seam, because I ran out of material, and that always bothered me.
7. Hit some re-tread on the highway, broke my carbon fiber lip, and damaged the vinyl.
8. Tracking a car kills vinyl, especially on the side-skirts.

Sooooooo... if those weren't enough reasons for people to see why I'm taking it off, I'm not sure what to say haha.

It was great while it lasted. Got a lot of attention and really enjoyed the matte-look. Luckily, it's been photographed a lot in the blue-state. It's really funny though how much you end up missing a nice, shiny car once you start taking it off and seeing the reflections in the panels again.

There is a positive note to all of this:

Vinyl is a fantastic protection for paint. Whether it's solid colored or a clear vinyl. I would say if you don't have a clear bra already, it's one of the best investments you can make. The way I see it is that because I spent the time and money to put the vinyl on in the first place, it saved me money and time ten-fold in the end. So all and all, I'm happy that I did it.

But, it's time for a new chapter for my car into the 3rd year of ownership... Time to do something different, once again.
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      01-30-2013, 08:58 PM   #14
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2011 BMW 135i  [7.06]
Quote:
Originally Posted by alp135 View Post
I had 19x9 et32 and 19x9.5 et33, I'm sure with camber arms in the rear it would work and I have -3 camber in the front and could of fit another 5 mill but yea that'd be reall aggressive but would look crazyy
I really respect that you've stretched the limits of 1-series fitment, especially with 19-inch wheels, which is a hell of a lot more difficult. I believe you, me, and JZ (1013mm) are pretty much the pioneers of this, which is cool.

So, my front will stick out roughly 8mm more (a little over 1/4-inch) and the rear will stick out about 5mm more. I've always had more issues with the rear, because it's hard to get a good roll and you can't dial in much negative camber with the existing eccentric bolt.

I think it will be possible because they are 18-inch wheels, I can always adjust the suspension/alignment, and our tire widths are pretty close to being the same. I think the only difference is you run a 235 in the back, which is crazy, but it's also on a 19-inch wheel.

What have you done as far as suspension and fender modification? What heights does your car sit at? (top of fender arch to ground)

Thanks for reading / info in advance.
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      01-31-2013, 08:34 AM   #15
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When you said you had big plans I assumed it was going to be something ground breakingly new--didn't think about anything this radical with fitment. Kudos for stretching the limits of originality. Can't wait to see final product.
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      01-31-2013, 07:03 PM   #16
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Can't wait for updates... props on the new fitment
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      02-01-2013, 10:30 AM   #17
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2011 BMW 135i  [7.06]
Who knew that vinegar and coke would strip rust and loctite off bolts!! Currently soaking in the vinegar. Will post pictures soon. Decided not to get them platted, because it's way too expensive and apparently you can't buy OEM BBS bolts from anywhere (The ones that actually have the little BBS on the head of the bolt).

So, I'm going to soak them, and then I'm debating whether to prime and paint them or to polish them.

Also got some Muteki SR48 lugs in dark titanium, should be a nice contrast against what color I'm doing the centers in.

The tires are off the barrels. I just have to go pick them up to continue the sanding / polishing.

I have to order some Super Max 2k clear coat.

The hankook tires came in and they look great.

I have to figure out what I'm doing for center caps. Part of me wants to buy red ones, but then I kind of like the black ones I have. I might keep them and polish the acrylic so they look like new.
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      02-01-2013, 02:05 PM   #18
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2011 BMW 135i  [7.06]
Naked barrels on their way home for more love...

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      02-01-2013, 03:29 PM   #19
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I was on 19x9.5 +23, the 235 tire really helped with reducing rubbing, plus fender flaring with baseball bats

so is the car staying SG?
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      02-01-2013, 03:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t02t View Post
I was on 19x9.5 +23, the 235 tire really helped with reducing rubbing, plus fender flaring with baseball bats

so is the car staying SG?
On the rear?

235/35?

Well, yes, it's going back to SGM.
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      02-01-2013, 03:35 PM   #21
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yep 235/35 in the rear, terrible for performance.
good luck with the new project! polished barrels are damn sexy
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      02-02-2013, 12:19 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogart
Quote:
Originally Posted by alp135 View Post
I had 19x9 et32 and 19x9.5 et33, I'm sure with camber arms in the rear it would work and I have -3 camber in the front and could of fit another 5 mill but yea that'd be reall aggressive but would look crazyy
I really respect that you've stretched the limits of 1-series fitment, especially with 19-inch wheels, which is a hell of a lot more difficult. I believe you, me, and JZ (1013mm) are pretty much the pioneers of this, which is cool.

So, my front will stick out roughly 8mm more (a little over 1/4-inch) and the rear will stick out about 5mm more. I've always had more issues with the rear, because it's hard to get a good roll and you can't dial in much negative camber with the existing eccentric bolt.

I think it will be possible because they are 18-inch wheels, I can always adjust the suspension/alignment, and our tire widths are pretty close to being the same. I think the only difference is you run a 235 in the back, which is crazy, but it's also on a 19-inch wheel.

What have you done as far as suspension and fender modification? What heights does your car sit at? (top of fender arch to ground)

Thanks for reading / info in advance.
Well first I attempted to roll them and it pushed them out a little but they really didn't wanna roll so I shaved them and got them sealed up I felt so bad doing it but I'm all about stance so I had to do what I had to do, with that setup above though I had no rubbing issues at all
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