What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by Blue_e82

With all this high speed talk i decided to give it a try. Took a little bit but got mine up to 138. Still have my hood!

Originally Posted by Esteban

Decided to push it and got to 140 last night. What a rush! And nothing fell off. lol

I don't see how one can run out of road or really be scared. It doesn't take all that long (time) or far (distance) to reach speed.

[ShocknAwe]

Spent some time setting ride height on my coils. Threw my old ruck with 80lbs in the driver's seat. One corner at a time, up, down, check all four. You change one, and the other three shift too. Real fun in a 95 degree garage. Took approximately 2 hours to get it to where I wanted it.

Final measurements from the garage floor to the bottom of the rocker/side skirt. Front done just behind the mud guard, rear done just in front of the aero wind deflector.

Front: 5- 2/8"
Rear: 5- 4/8"

Right and left identical, if measuring from the top center of fender arch to the middle hatch of the center cap, came in at 12- 6/8". Wheel/tire is 19x9et48 265-30-19 MPSS rear, 19x8et45 235-35-19 MPSS front.

Cheers!

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

I don't see how one can run out of road or really be scared. It doesn't take all that long (time) or far (distance) to reach speed.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

all that long (time) or far (distance)

Thank you! Too often people are vague!

[low135]

Bought a front lip today, hoping that it comes in by the weekend when I do the bumper install. Tires are being mounted on the new wheels Saturday. Car show Sunday so we'll see if I can get things done by then

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

Thank you! Too often people are vague!

What 'people' are you speaking of?

[Zombie_Head]

Two liters Castrol SRF brake fluid.

130i/330i front brake discs (330mmx24mm)
Standard 125i/128i rear discs (both front and rear are OE from dealer)

130i/330i front caliper mounts.

EBC Yellow Stuff front and rear pads.

Ferodo DS Performance front and rear pads.

Various other sensors and new disc mounting bolts en route. KW Dealer informed me that the V3 coilovers will arrive thursday, asked me to bring the car in midday to start the install and friday i can pick it up. My trip to Nürburg starts on Saturday so it will be close.

Sorry for the mess, was excited when opening new packages with parts ^^

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Head

Two liters Castrol SRF brake fluid.

130i/330i front brake discs (330mmx24mm)
Standard 125i/128i rear discs (both front and rear are OE from dealer)

130i/330i front caliper mounts.

EBC Yellow Stuff front and rear pads.

Ferodo DS Performance front and rear pads.

Various other sensors and new disc mounting bolts en route. KW Dealer informed me that the V3 coilovers will arrive thursday, asked me to bring the car in midday to start the install and friday i can pick it up. My trip to Nürburg starts on Saturday so it will be close.

Sorry for the mess, was excited when opening new packages with parts ^^

Looks like fun!

[1and1]

Over the weekend I ordered one of the Phoenix Racing 5" stock replacement intercoolers. It ain't much, but is perfect for my very modest goals

and very modest budget....

[Matticus91]

Budget wheel resto!

Details here: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1507250

20180617_153912 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

20180617_182113 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

20180617_211229 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

20180617_211219 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Looks like fun!

Yeah and stressful, since Thursday the KW V3 is getting installed, then pick up on Friday midday, then back to the DIY workshop and try to get as much done as possible.

Then Saturday morning to Nürburg, break in the brake en route.

That is assuming everything falls according to plan.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Head

Yeah and stressful, since Thursday the KW V3 is getting installed, then pick up on Friday midday, then back to the DIY workshop and try to get as much done as possible.

Then Saturday morning to Nürburg, break in the brake en route.

That is assuming everything falls according to plan.

Wow! And I thought doing the M control arms on Monday was cutting it close for a track weekend that Saturday/Sunday.

P.S. The alignment shop (first and only since then) found that the tie rods were seized (adjustment-wise), so I had to get replacements the next day, then the next day had to get the old ones off (crowbars, blowtorch, etc. involved), then had to take it in again, and it was done Friday afternoon.

[Havocsteve]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

Budget wheel resto!

Looks sharp!! I wanted to spend like $150 per rim to refinish and paint them.

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

I don't see how one can run out of road or really be scared. It doesn't take all that long (time) or far (distance) to reach speed.

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Wow! And I thought doing the M control arms on Monday was cutting it close for a track weekend that Saturday/Sunday.

P.S. The alignment shop (first and only since then) found that the tie rods were seized (adjustment-wise), so I had to get replacements the next day, then the next day had to get the old ones off (crowbars, blowtorch, etc. involved), then had to take it in again, and it was done Friday afternoon.

See what i mean? assuming everything goes according to plan ^^

Lucky for me, the DIY workshop is open from 9am till 7pm on Friday. If i can pick the car up from KW at 1-2pm i have 5 hours or so to do the brakes, bleed the brakes, bleed the clutch, change transmission fluid and squeeze in coolant replacement.

Fingers crossed!

[Yeineken]

Installing the M3 subframe and need help.

Can someone confirm or deny that this is installed correctly? I have the weird feeling the subframe is supposed to be flush with the chassis. Unfortunately did not take a picture of the old subframe.

Thanks addicts.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Head

See what i mean? assuming everything goes according to plan ^^

Lucky for me, the DIY workshop is open from 9am till 7pm on Friday. If i can pick the car up from KW at 1-2pm i have 5 hours or so to do the brakes, bleed the brakes, bleed the clutch, change transmission fluid and squeeze in coolant replacement.

Fingers crossed!

The brakes will take all of an hour if you go into it with all the right knowledge and tools, brakes are easy... Work from back to front and right to left, and bleed as you go (if you have to use a floor jack)

Knock out the clutch bleeding and the tranny fluid change at the same time, since they both use the same underbelly pan, they're also pretty easy (trans fluid smells horrid, though).

Coolant doesn't take long, either. Just gotta remove the engine belly pan (17 bizillion screws, all 8mm FWIW) pull out the radiator shield, and do the thing with the stuff. Bleeding is easy with the electric pump, just put it on a battery tender...

I miss working on my car, it's just so perfect now (except the brakes, and the diff, and that clunk, aaand...)

On a side note, I think I'm going to spring for the Wavetrac diff. It seems like it's the best of all the worlds; has the daily-able-ness of a helical, and has a fine (if sub-optimal) solution for the one-wheeling concerns. Woo-hoo! Sideways time!

3.73 donor diff will be here Saturday for some cosmetic reconditioning (clean and paint the casing and back cover)

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Yeineken

Installing the M3 subframe and need help.

Can someone confirm or deny that this is installed correctly? I have the weird feeling the subframe is supposed to be flush with the chassis. Unfortunately did not take a picture of the old subframe.

Thanks addicts.

Looks alright to me!

[YearOneOne]

Originally Posted by Yeineken

Installing the M3 subframe and need help.

Can someone confirm or deny that this is installed correctly? I have the weird feeling the subframe is supposed to be flush with the chassis. Unfortunately did not take a picture of the old subframe.

Thanks addicts.

From my knowledge the fronts go in from the top and the backs go in from the bottom

[xQx]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

On a side note, I think I'm going to spring for the Wavetrac diff. It seems like it's the best of all the worlds; has the daily-able-ness of a helical, and has a fine (if sub-optimal) solution for the one-wheeling concerns. Woo-hoo! Sideways time!

Good choice, as I said in the other thread; that's the choice I would make for my daily driver if I were to be doing it again.

The Mfactory is fun, but the drawbacks on the street get to you after a while.

I'll be throwing Bilstein B12's at the car later this year and I'm already wondering if I'll regret the 30mm of lowering that they provide... (I live on a road with speed humps and scrape the front lip as it is)

... Well, I'm running my 135i in N/A mode at the moment. I'm getting far more looks than normal since the exhaust is louder with the wastegates open and the revs are higher while I ring it out in the suburbs to get the power down. It's an interesting experience, its a very capable car with the turbos turned off, and in some ways I'm happier to drive it harder since it's much harder (neigh on impossible with the LSD and MPS4s) to loose traction.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what's the best ~500whp turbos for street use are these days? Seems the popular choices are the Super RB EVO’s 15T or 17T; Pure Stage 2 DD or VTT GC Lite?

... My (new, now that I'm doing the bloody turbos) power goals are 'whatever I can get without having to upgrade fuel system'.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by xQx

Good choice, as I said in the other thread; that's the choice I would make for my daily driver if I were to be doing it again.

The Mfactory is fun, but the drawbacks on the street get to you after a while.

I'll be throwing Bilstein B12's at the car later this year and I'm already wondering if I'll regret the 30mm of lowering that they provide... (I live on a road with speed humps and scrape the front lip as it is)

Cool! I think I'd be happy with any diff regardless of drawbacks

I've been watching all sorts of vids on the MFactory, and I'm definitely looking forward to it; it's going to be especially awesome with the gearing upgrade (3.23 to a 3.73), and the car's going to be sooo much more fun and lively (in all the right ways)!

Maybe try upgraded shocks with the stock springs? Keep the daily-able ride height and gain more control and a better ride! FWIW, I don't have any speed bumps on my daily drive that I can't a) avoid or b) get over without scraping horribly (stock 128i bumper helps), so the Eibach springs were an awesome fit, along with Koni Yellows.

[asiflicious]

Originally Posted by xQx

Good choice, as I said in the other thread; that's the choice I would make for my daily driver if I were to be doing it again.

The Mfactory is fun, but the drawbacks on the street get to you after a while.

I'll be throwing Bilstein B12's at the car later this year and I'm already wondering if I'll regret the 30mm of lowering that they provide... (I live on a road with speed humps and scrape the front lip as it is)

... Well, I'm running my 135i in N/A mode at the moment. I'm getting far more looks than normal since the exhaust is louder with the wastegates open and the revs are higher while I ring it out in the suburbs to get the power down. It's an interesting experience, its a very capable car with the turbos turned off, and in some ways I'm happier to drive it harder since it's much harder (neigh on impossible with the LSD and MPS4s) to loose traction.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what's the best ~500whp turbos for street use are these days? Seems the popular choices are the Super RB EVO’s 15T or 17T; Pure Stage 2 DD or VTT GC Lite?

... My (new, now that I'm doing the bloody turbos) power goals are 'whatever I can get without having to upgrade fuel system'.

Could you elaborate further on the drawbacks of the m factory? I'm about to bite the bullet on either the Wavetrac or M Factory

[xQx]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

Could you elaborate further on the drawbacks of the m factory? I'm about to bite the bullet on either the Wavetrac or M Factory

With pleasure

Here's my latest long-winded post on the subject, from a recent thread Limited Slip Differential Options For BMW E87

The dot point version is:

Downsides

• You do eventually tire of the clicks,clunks and shudders turning tight corners, even if you know they're totally harmless and normal.
• Where a helical diff is described as an invisible hand pushing you around a corner from the back; a plate diff is like an invisible hand pushing the back of the car in the direction the car is pointed. With a 1-way or 1.5way diff, if you accelerate halfway around a corner then back off, this suddenly changes the balance of the car - in a 'snap-oversteer' kind of way.
• From what I've read on all the Nissan forums, a 2-way diff is just awful on the road, unless you like drifting around every single corner.
• Plate diffs require an oil change every 3k miles and a rebuild every 30-60k miles. helical diffs are much lower maintenance.

Upsides

• Where a helical diff can be pushing you from either of the back wheels at its own discretion, a plate diff ALWAYS pushes from the back equally on both wheels. (it is 100% predictable)
• Powering just before the apex of the corner will reliably result in very controllable oversteer. This is something you never tire of.
• Straight line traction is drastically improved. But if you do loose grip, you can still quite safely light up the back wheels with the knowledge that the car will go forward in a straight line (not randomly snake around), because both back wheels are spinning at the same rate.

In short, it's harder to drive a plate diff well, but if you do know how to drive a plate diff well, you'll have much more fun than you would with a helical. But if you want something that fixes the grip issues without introducing it's own list of drawbacks - a helical is the best choice.

EDIT: I forgot the most important point. Whichever way you go, putting a real LSD into the back of one of our cars is one of the most valuable and worthwhile modifications you can make. I know it's expensive, but the difference it makes to grip and handling is night and day.