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      11-11-2009, 06:20 PM   #67
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hey all - thanks for the advice on here - i bought meguirs gold class and microfibre cloth and gave my car it's first wash since i bought it (nearly 2 months now - oops)
i held back on buying wax though

what wax should i use?
should i do anything different to a normal wash before i wax it?
how often should i wax it?

thanks
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      11-11-2009, 06:34 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
Karcher is good still even after the snow foam, the extra pressure really make it easier to clean the car. (And you can clean your walls with it too!). There is also a lance for the karcher. Snow foam is the pick - available through waxit.com.au or various overseas websites.

OT: PZero are great, sticks very well, and the first thing I noticed was the increase of power, the reduction in unsprung make a huge impact. Other things is the better ride, and better grip. I know MattyV noticed the noise level decreased as well, but for somehow my car came with Dunlops Runflat, which has a better noise level than the Bridgestones.



If you can get someone to seal the car and correction done, that's great. What I found is that most dealers doesn't do paint prep before sealing. Also, you can still create swirl marks on the actual paint protection. Just be careful with the foam pads though. Dirt on foam (even the finest) = potential for swirls. Foam doesn't hide the dirt in the pile like microfibre wash cloths; for foam which is coarse, it holds the dirt in its pores and increase the cut to the paint; for foam which is much finer, the dirt still seats on the foam pad. This is how polishing works - no foam pad will behave any differently to this. So, when you wipe the paint with grit on the surface, it will create marks - but the fact that you karcher before it, washing it twice weekly, and using back and forth and not circular strokes will help.

Also, paint protection sealant, still only last up to 12 months that's why you have to top up. Once the water stop sheeting and beading, that paint protection is basically gone - you can tell from the surface tension of your paint. Don't let the guarantee and god customer service give you a false sense of security. Looks at the physics and facts of the paint. I have so many "never have to wax" paint protection which eventually developed swirl marks and I still got one sitting in my garage at the moment.




Install a water tank.
Heh, i have a water tank at my work just for washing all the company cars.

With regards to the pain protection i am a car nut and spend a lot of time taking care of them, and keeping them looking as new as possible. I clean the leather (only with a soft damp rag) every week and also keep the carpet clean so no stains can ever get ground in. I get the car professionally detailed every 3-4 months at a cost of $160 full inside and outside, and that also includes any top-ups of pain protection to keep it working properly.

I keep my foam hidden away from others, if it hits the floor even once i throw it out. I rinse the car throuroughly with the Karcher before the wash, and also use a different "wheel rag" for under the sills and wheels only after i have removed the foam pad, and finished washing the body.

Ask Alex how anal i am about my cars, you can bet 100% my car will be clean and perfect for tomorrow nights cruise (if it is still on).
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      11-11-2009, 07:12 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMH1983 View Post
Ask Alex how anal i am about my cars, you can bet 100% my car will be clean and perfect for tomorrow nights cruise (if it is still on).
It's on and yeah, you're more anal than a 1992 B-Grade porno!

Just need to get numbers for tomorrow night. Jonathan must come!
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      11-11-2009, 10:07 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
Karcher is good still even after the snow foam, the extra pressure really make it easier to clean the car. (And you can clean your walls with it too!). There is also a lance for the karcher. Snow foam is the pick - available through waxit.com.au or various overseas websites.


OT: PZero are great, sticks very well, and the first thing I noticed was the increase of power, the reduction in unsprung make a huge impact. Other things is the better ride, and better grip. I know MattyV noticed the noise level decreased as well, but for somehow my car came with Dunlops Runflat, which has a better noise level than the Bridgestones.

Thanks for the info Sparoz, really appreciate it. I'm new to this and love how helpful everyone is!

I think I might start off with the Karcher, thinking a 2.99 from Bunnings and maybe snow wash next month!

I got the paint protection done on Tuesday and it came out really well, I work for Ford and the lady who handles the after market stuff got me an awesome deal - at cost! The guy did a really good job and seems to have preped the paint perfectly cos I'm really perdantic and I didn't notice any swirls... Best thing is the rain just beads off now!

Anyone tried AutoGlym products, how do they compare to the other stuff mentioned like Chemical Guys and stuff?

OT: Defintely might go the PZero set from Tirerack.com, cos the rainy season just started and really need any extra grip!

Last edited by alik01; 11-12-2009 at 12:01 AM..
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      11-12-2009, 02:50 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Sparoz, so do you think picking up Karcher is worth it or should I try locate something for snow wash? I live in the NT and the dust here is crazy. On a side note, sparoz, how are PZeros treating you, looking to swap from the REO50s.

AussieRacer, what product do you use for snow wash? Really interested in getting something to clean the muck before I touch the paint.

Thanks guys.
I use pretty much any high suds shampoo as a foam, but I normally mix based on how dirty the car is, and what I'm going to do after washing (ie. adding more protection or not). That said, Megs Hyperwash foams up quite well, but you do need to use a proper snow foam gun, not the foam bottles that come standard with high pressure washers. The difference is night and day in the way they foam up. With a proper snow foam gun I can cover the entire in white foam and have it cling there for 1 minute without seeing the colour of the car underneath. Something you can't do with a non-snow foam gun. It is the clinging action that removes the most dirt.
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      11-12-2009, 05:27 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieRacer View Post
I use pretty much any high suds shampoo as a foam, but I normally mix based on how dirty the car is, and what I'm going to do after washing (ie. adding more protection or not). That said, Megs Hyperwash foams up quite well, but you do need to use a proper snow foam gun, not the foam bottles that come standard with high pressure washers. The difference is night and day in the way they foam up. With a proper snow foam gun I can cover the entire in white foam and have it cling there for 1 minute without seeing the colour of the car underneath. Something you can't do with a non-snow foam gun. It is the clinging action that removes the most dirt.
Thanks AussieRacer! Which foam gun do you use? Would it attach onto a Karcher or Bosch pressure washer. I have the option of getting either, and I can order the foam gun. As I mentioned, really love the idea of cleaning without touching the paint, as there is so much dirt, flies and muck up here and BSM, looks horrible if it's not gleaming!

What do you guys use on your rims to get rid of the dust? The detailer mentioned something called 101 or something, apparently the dirt falls away - sounded a bit too good to be true!

Thanks again guys, really appreciate it. Love the cosseting feel of other fanatics!
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      11-12-2009, 08:33 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intehnet View Post
what wax should i use?
should i do anything different to a normal wash before i wax it?
how often should i wax it?

thanks
For best results you will have to clay the car after washing - that removes all the contaminants, and depends on which wax you us, you'll have to prep the paint.

I have Dodo Juice, and if you got the $ Swissvax (really, it actually doesn't cost that much per application). However, from other people's feedback, Collinite is the pick, it is cheap and good.

You should wax once very 3 months-6 months depending on usage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Thanks for the info Sparoz, really appreciate it. I'm new to this and love how helpful everyone is!

I think I might start off with the Karcher, thinking a 2.99 from Bunnings and maybe snow wash next month!

I got the paint protection done on Tuesday and it came out really well, I work for Ford and the lady who handles the after market stuff got me an awesome deal - at cost! The guy did a really good job and seems to have preped the paint perfectly cos I'm really perdantic and I didn't notice any swirls... Best thing is the rain just beads off now!

Anyone tried AutoGlym products, how do they compare to the other stuff mentioned like Chemical Guys and stuff?

OT: Defintely might go the PZero set from Tirerack.com, cos the rainy season just started and really need any extra grip!
It is good that someone actually take the time to prep the car before sealing it. Many don't and you end up having swirls underneath the paint protection. Make sure you do the top up every year otherwise you'll have bare paint. Taka use autoglym, but with paint protection, and good gentle wash should do the trick.

OT: PZeros around $400 a set of 2s, so make sure you check price before ordering from tyre rack.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Thanks AussieRacer! Which foam gun do you use? Would it attach onto a Karcher or Bosch pressure washer. I have the option of getting either, and I can order the foam gun. As I mentioned, really love the idea of cleaning without touching the paint, as there is so much dirt, flies and muck up here and BSM, looks horrible if it's not gleaming!

What do you guys use on your rims to get rid of the dust? The detailer mentioned something called 101 or something, apparently the dirt falls away - sounded a bit too good to be true!

Thanks again guys, really appreciate it. Love the cosseting feel of other fanatics!
P21s wheel cleaner is great at removing brake dust. There are various sealants for wheels. Mother is the one that most people us on the forum, but there is the Nanonex which is new. Mother seems to be easy to use.. spray on and buff it up. I don't think 303 has one, but if it does i'll definitely give it a try as all the 303 products I use are just so good.
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      11-12-2009, 05:12 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
For best results you will have to clay the car after washing - that removes all the contaminants, and depends on which wax you us, you'll have to prep the paint.

I have Dodo Juice, and if you got the $ Swissvax (really, it actually doesn't cost that much per application). However, from other people's feedback, Collinite is the pick, it is cheap and good.

You should wax once very 3 months-6 months depending on usage.
what does the clay actually do? does it take off the existing wax?
i'll keep an eye out for those brands - but seeing as my car was fully detailed by BMW premium selection 7-8 weeks ago i have the luxury of time before needing another wax
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      11-12-2009, 05:15 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intehnet View Post
what does the clay actually do? does it take off the existing wax?
i'll keep an eye out for those brands - but seeing as my car was fully detailed by BMW premium selection 7-8 weeks ago i have the luxury of time before needing another wax
You're suppose to clay before a polish to avoid scratching the paint. It picks up the physical contaminants stuck to the paint such as tree sap and grit, etc and is mainly only a problem if the car is parked outdoors a lot and not washed regularly. Or old paint
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      11-12-2009, 05:20 PM   #76
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ok so i wouldn't be completely ignorant if i don't clay... i just wash then wax??
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      11-12-2009, 05:24 PM   #77
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If your car is reasonably new and well looked after, claying is not a must before waxing. It's usually the bonnet, boot and roof that require claying and you'll be able to tell if it needs claying because there will be grit on the paintwork. Make sure you get a decent wax with carnubra and not the meguiars/mothers crap from autobahn.
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      11-12-2009, 05:24 PM   #78
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Clay will make you feel better. There are a lot of stuff on the road, and sea... I got a lot of dirt from the sea trip when I first got the car.

I will be using AutoGlym for a while. A bunch of samples came in the mail today.
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      11-12-2009, 05:31 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsboost View Post
If your car is reasonably new and well looked after, claying is not a must before waxing. It's usually the bonnet, boot and roof that require claying and you'll be able to tell if it needs claying because there will be grit on the paintwork. Make sure you get a decent wax with carnubra and not the meguiars/mothers crap from autobahn.
thanks, i'll look for some better brands then.. i was going to get meguiars gold stuff..

anyone know a good place in melbourne i can buy some good wax at a reasonable price (not spending over $50 on wax!)
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      11-12-2009, 05:37 PM   #80
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I use Poorboys Natty Blue which is cheap but works well and is easy to buff off. Chemguys are cheap too, but I've never tried their waxes, but use their other products and they are great.
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      11-12-2009, 05:43 PM   #81
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I use Poorboys Natty Blue which is cheap but works well and is easy to buff off. Chemguys are cheap too, but I've never tried their waxes, but use their other products and they are great.
nice, that's priced right as well ($30 on line) anyone know shops that stock it in melb??
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      11-12-2009, 05:46 PM   #82
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Thanks Sparoz, what do you recommend as a gentle wash? The paint protection guys gave me a bottle of car shampoo, bug remover, leather cleaner and stuff but don't know how good they are. Where can I order a high quality chamois and some microfibre clothes. And same goes for P21s and Mother, where can I get them cos Darwin doesn't really stock the greatest selection of peanuts, let alone car care products!

OT: Are these PZero Rosso, cos I'm expecting that to be about AU$1K delivered. I definetly won't get more than 2 from the shops here. I can get it fitted and aligned from work for free as well.
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      11-12-2009, 05:51 PM   #83
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chemguys.com.au are probably the cheapest for microfibre stuff and they also make an excellent wash called citrus wash or something like that
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      11-12-2009, 06:07 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intehnet View Post
what does the clay actually do? does it take off the existing wax?
i'll keep an eye out for those brands - but seeing as my car was fully detailed by BMW premium selection 7-8 weeks ago i have the luxury of time before needing another wax
Takes out contaminants, wax, saps, road tar, etc. Unless you haven't been driving the car, I would always recommend to clay before you re-wax. That would also take off the wax which you'll need to do before you re-wax. I had a new car delivery and it took only about a month and a bit for the wax are gone. So, I won't trust that the Premium Selection is going to be doing any better.

How long a wax last depends on how good the wax is, if you don't want to do the wax, then putting a sythetic sealant on is going to last six months even in the elements - Zaino is the pick from everyone but Autoglym and Meguires NXT have quite good feedback too. Klasse was the pick before everyone jump onto Zaino.

If you are keen to learn, the detailing section of the forum have a lot of useful information.
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      11-12-2009, 06:12 PM   #85
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far out i had no idea keeping a car clean was so expensive!
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      11-12-2009, 06:19 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intehnet View Post
far out i had no idea keeping a car clean was so expensive!
Trust me, doing it properly: claying, microfibres, staged waxing and sealing pays off

It also takes a long time, I wash every weekend, with a polish/glaze every second weekend. Clay each time I re-wax.

The process usually takes me about 3-4 hours, depending on weather and where the car is (inside or outside with a touch of UV on it).

It pays off
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      11-12-2009, 06:22 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
Takes out contaminants, wax, saps, road tar, etc. Unless you haven't been driving the car, I would always recommend to clay before you re-wax. That would also take off the wax which you'll need to do before you re-wax. I had a new car delivery and it took only about a month and a bit for the wax are gone. So, I won't trust that the Premium Selection is going to be doing any better.

How long a wax last depends on how good the wax is, if you don't want to do the wax, then putting a sythetic sealant on is going to last six months even in the elements - Zaino is the pick from everyone but Autoglym and Meguires NXT have quite good feedback too. Klasse was the pick before everyone jump onto Zaino.

If you are keen to learn, the detailing section of the forum have a lot of useful information.

Good points, but not entirely accurate. Clay won't really take off your wax, a strong soap solution will though. Re-waxing on top of wax is usually beneficial. I learnt how to detail cars from a detailer friend of mine and he gets me to "top-up" the wax with a spray on carnubra wax I get in from the states. Only need to do this when drying the car every 2-3 washes though. I use an artificial sealant (poly-lack nano seal) every 6 months then put poorboys wax over the top every 3 months. The sealant lasts 6-12 months and the wax usually lasts around 3-4 months depending on how often you wash it and rain, etc. Generally if the water is beading off the paintwork, it's still alright.

For drying I use a microfibre waffle weave towel which works better than a chamois and doesn't swirl the paint. Hope this helps
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      11-12-2009, 06:25 PM   #88
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And for those wondering about sealants. They are similar to wax, but artificial chemical based and last much longer than wax. They protect the paint from UV and contaminants, etc but don't have the wet look of a carnubra wax. The problem is carnubra lasts only a few months. I use both because I am anal ha ha, but the paint looks like a mirror
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