Window Pinch Protection Malfunction Icon

[///M1]

Guys,

Looking for some help. I was hardwiring my Escort and I decided to use a fuse prong 'slider' when connecting it to a power source. I chose to connect it to fuse #38 (IIRC) which operates the windows. While I was doing it, my doors were open, didn't think it mattered (i.e. windows were down just a hair as they normally slide down a bit once the doors are open).

I tested the Escort, all was fine until the yellow icon indicating the Pinch Protection System Malfunction lit up. Right now my passenger side window is completely inoperable, it sits 1/4 inch below full up level (i.e. the amount it travels downwards when you open the door). Driver's side window is fine, I can operate it in any manner I like, so no issues there.

Looked at the manual, under this malfunction recommended action is: "Have system checked". Is there any way I can reset it (perhaps disconnect battery for a bit), or by holding the buttons for a while up/down? Hoping I can get it working again without a visit to the dealer?

Also, any way to at least manually raise it to the max? As mentioned, it sits 1/4 inch lower so it's right below the rubber window insulation, afraid water may come though. Thx!

[BlackjackMulligan]

Did you try the reset procedure? I don't have the manual in front of me but as you mentioned, it involves holding the button down and then up IIRC..

[///M1]

Originally Posted by BlackjackMulligan

Did you try the reset procedure? I don't have the manual in front of me but as you mentioned, it involves holding the button down and then up IIRC..

I tried, no luck. The window does not respond to the switch at all (though I do hear a click, perhaps that is encouraging that the motor works but needs programming?) Was really hoping I don't have to do to the dealer for something petty like that...

[BlackjackMulligan]

Originally Posted by ///M1

I tried, no luck. The window does not respond to the switch at all (though I do hear a click, perhaps that is encouraging that the motor works but needs programming?) Was really hoping I don't have to do to the dealer for something petty like that...

The other problem is if you bring it into the dealer I'd recommend pulling out the radar wiring as they can easily say that caused the fault..

BTW, RS4 =

[///M1]

Originally Posted by BlackjackMulligan

The other problem is if you bring it into the dealer I'd recommend pulling out the radar wiring as they can easily say that caused the fault..

BTW, RS4 =

Absolutely, def pulling out the hardwire fuse prong tonight! LOL

Thx for the complements, I have to say I still love the RS4 as much as I did when I picked her up. The 1- though can easily outgain her with a few mods, oh behold the power of forced induction!

Just need to spend some effort on improving the suspension geometry on the 1-, way way way too much understeer presently

[///M1]

An update: got the car from the dealer, all was covered. Turned out to be quite the job. They had to take out the glove box, fuse box, and JTD (the control module I am told) and repair the fuse box, because apparently a couple of the fuse slots were 'damaged'. The distance between the terminals was found to be too wide. This I am guessing was the result of using the fuse sleeve connector, often called Auto blade-type fuse clip (which basically wraps around/sandwiches one of the two fuse prongs).

Lesson learned - never use one of these fuse sleeve connectors (sold at Radio Shack and came shipped with the manufacturer's hardwire kit!!!) They will ruin your fuse box. If you need to tap into power do so via a "Add A Circuit" sold at PepBoys, just like the one pictured here):

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...2&postcount=14

And never use any of these items pictured here as one of the fure prongs will become 2-3 times thicker than the other and cause damage to the fuse slot:

http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/c...7/pdf_4608.pdf