Reverse bleed nightmare

tremere613 · 12-17-2014, 11:37 AM

Spent last night trying to reverse bleed my clutch using an oiler can...
Oiler can started leaking all over the place.. I got a whole bunch of pumps in but I have no idea if it worked... Highly doubt it because nothing was coming out when I stopped pumping... (Before closing nipple)

What a mess to say the least...

I may have to bring it to shop for this one guys...
Anyways just in case I muster the courage

Is this the correct clutch bleed procedure:

1. Have someone pump clutch ?? Times and hold clutch down

2. Open nipple and allow clutch fluid to flow through tube

3. Close nipple

4. Allow person to release clutch

Rinse and repeat?

tremere613 · 12-17-2014, 01:27 PM

Second question: Can I make it to a mechanic with the clutch not bled 100%

Kgolf31 · 12-17-2014, 01:36 PM

I don't know how to exactly bleed a clutch manually because you cannot build pressure within the system like you can on brakes.

Anyways, like I've said before you should probably invest in a pressure bleeder in the future.

As far as driving it, depends if the clutch can be engaged and disengaged without any issues.

JimD · 12-17-2014, 07:31 PM

I will second the pressure bleeder suggestion. I bought my son a Motive and I borrow it. There is a screw on cap for our cars, the best connection. It makes it easy to do it yourself. All you do is make sure you have enough fluid either in the bleeder or the resovoir and pressurize the system. Then you open the bleed valve. When you stop seeing bubbles, or more likely, think enough fluid has come out, close the valve and you should be good.

If you have too much air in the system, you may not be able to get the clutch to fully disengage. That will make it hard to shift if it is just slightly engaged or impossible to drive, if it is still basically fully engaged. You will know the latter when you try to crank the engine. It will probably be drivable.

tremere613 · 12-17-2014, 07:43 PM

Thoughts on this:

Pour about an inch of new hydraulic fluid into a clean jar, and stand it on the ground under the slave cylinder.

Put the free end of the bleed tube into the jar, below the surface of the fluid. Air and fluid from the system will be pumped into the jar.

Remove the bleed-nipple dust cover on the slave cylinder and fit the bleed tube as described (see right). The nipple is easily damaged, so use a spanner of the right size to unscrew it about three-quarters of a turn.

Get a helper to press the clutch pedal smartly all the way down, then release it quickly. If bubbles flow from the end of the pipe in the jar, pump the pedal until no more appear. Keep the end of the tube immersed in the fluid all the time.

If after six pedal strokes the bubbles have not cleared, top up the reservoir before you continue pumping. Otherwise, more air will be drawn into the system and it will have to be bled again.

When the system is free of air, get the helper to hold the pedal down while you tighten the nipple.

Before you remove the bleed tube and jar, depress the clutch pedal to ensure that the pressure required is normal.

Top up the fluid reservoir and screw the cap on firmly. Get your helper to work the pedal vigorously several times while you inspect all the joints and piping of the system for leaks.

Unless the end of the bleed tube is covered with fluid, air will be sucked into the system during pumping.

Use a spanner of the right size to open the bleed nipple. Unscrew it about three-quarters of a turn.

-howacarworks.com

Horigan · 12-19-2014, 04:10 PM

A couple of notes on the method above. The clutch will stay at the floor after depressing it since you're not building pressure to bring it back up. You'll need to pull the pedal back up. Ensure the tube is submerged when you do this.

I'd be worried six pumps would introduce more air in to the system from the reservoir since you may go below the side port opening that feeds the clutch. I would refill after three pumps.

Pressure bleeders are the way to go verses pumping. If you use a pressure bleeder, go with very low pressure. There is very little hydraulic resistance in this circuit and I've introduced air via the reservoir with too much pressure because the fluid couldn't travel fast enough within the reservoir to keep the side port submerged.

mleskovar · 12-20-2014, 11:12 PM

"Reverse bleed" is the dumbest thing I've heard in a long time about car maintenance. This is below filling street tires with nitrogen. Yes I read about it. It's dumb. Nothing to be accomplished different from regular bleeding except the possibility of more leaking fluid. What am I missing? Don't mean this to be nasty but what? I've been wrong before.

12-17-2014, 11:37 AM	#1
tremere613 First Lieutenant 26 Rep 325 Posts Drives: 09' 135i M package convertible Join Date: May 2012 Location: D.C iTrader: (3)	Reverse bleed nightmare Spent last night trying to reverse bleed my clutch using an oiler can... Oiler can started leaking all over the place.. I got a whole bunch of pumps in but I have no idea if it worked... Highly doubt it because nothing was coming out when I stopped pumping... (Before closing nipple) What a mess to say the least... I may have to bring it to shop for this one guys... Anyways just in case I muster the courage Is this the correct clutch bleed procedure: 1. Have someone pump clutch ?? Times and hold clutch down 2. Open nipple and allow clutch fluid to flow through tube 3. Close nipple 4. Allow person to release clutch Rinse and repeat? __________________ Mods: Clutch stop, BMW performance SSK, BMW PE exhaust, CDV delete, Clutch pedal spring delete (CPS delete) : ) - check out the the DIY:http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1122797
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12-17-2014, 01:27 PM	#2
tremere613 First Lieutenant 26 Rep 325 Posts Drives: 09' 135i M package convertible Join Date: May 2012 Location: D.C iTrader: (3)	Second question: Can I make it to a mechanic with the clutch not bled 100%
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12-17-2014, 01:36 PM	#3
Kgolf31 Brigadier General 460 Rep 4,531 Posts Drives: 2007 Z4MC, 2012 128i Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Ohio iTrader: (4)	I don't know how to exactly bleed a clutch manually because you cannot build pressure within the system like you can on brakes. Anyways, like I've said before you should probably invest in a pressure bleeder in the future. As far as driving it, depends if the clutch can be engaged and disengaged without any issues.
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12-17-2014, 07:31 PM	#4
JimD Brigadier General 368 Rep 3,547 Posts Drives: 128i convertible Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Lexington, SC iTrader: (0)	I will second the pressure bleeder suggestion. I bought my son a Motive and I borrow it. There is a screw on cap for our cars, the best connection. It makes it easy to do it yourself. All you do is make sure you have enough fluid either in the bleeder or the resovoir and pressurize the system. Then you open the bleed valve. When you stop seeing bubbles, or more likely, think enough fluid has come out, close the valve and you should be good. If you have too much air in the system, you may not be able to get the clutch to fully disengage. That will make it hard to shift if it is just slightly engaged or impossible to drive, if it is still basically fully engaged. You will know the latter when you try to crank the engine. It will probably be drivable. __________________ 128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09
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12-17-2014, 07:43 PM	#5
tremere613 First Lieutenant 26 Rep 325 Posts Drives: 09' 135i M package convertible Join Date: May 2012 Location: D.C iTrader: (3)	Thoughts on this: Pour about an inch of new hydraulic fluid into a clean jar, and stand it on the ground under the slave cylinder. Put the free end of the bleed tube into the jar, below the surface of the fluid. Air and fluid from the system will be pumped into the jar. Remove the bleed-nipple dust cover on the slave cylinder and fit the bleed tube as described (see right). The nipple is easily damaged, so use a spanner of the right size to unscrew it about three-quarters of a turn. Get a helper to press the clutch pedal smartly all the way down, then release it quickly. If bubbles flow from the end of the pipe in the jar, pump the pedal until no more appear. Keep the end of the tube immersed in the fluid all the time. If after six pedal strokes the bubbles have not cleared, top up the reservoir before you continue pumping. Otherwise, more air will be drawn into the system and it will have to be bled again. When the system is free of air, get the helper to hold the pedal down while you tighten the nipple. Before you remove the bleed tube and jar, depress the clutch pedal to ensure that the pressure required is normal. Top up the fluid reservoir and screw the cap on firmly. Get your helper to work the pedal vigorously several times while you inspect all the joints and piping of the system for leaks. Unless the end of the bleed tube is covered with fluid, air will be sucked into the system during pumping. Use a spanner of the right size to open the bleed nipple. Unscrew it about three-quarters of a turn. -howacarworks.com __________________ Mods: Clutch stop, BMW performance SSK, BMW PE exhaust, CDV delete, Clutch pedal spring delete (CPS delete) : ) - check out the the DIY:http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1122797
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12-19-2014, 04:10 PM	#6
Horigan Private First Class 23 Rep 110 Posts Drives: 2011 135i M-Sport Join Date: May 2013 Location: Seattle WA, USA iTrader: (0)	A couple of notes on the method above. The clutch will stay at the floor after depressing it since you're not building pressure to bring it back up. You'll need to pull the pedal back up. Ensure the tube is submerged when you do this. I'd be worried six pumps would introduce more air in to the system from the reservoir since you may go below the side port opening that feeds the clutch. I would refill after three pumps. Pressure bleeders are the way to go verses pumping. If you use a pressure bleeder, go with very low pressure. There is very little hydraulic resistance in this circuit and I've introduced air via the reservoir with too much pressure because the fluid couldn't travel fast enough within the reservoir to keep the side port submerged.
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12-20-2014, 11:12 PM	#7
mleskovar Lieutenant 79 Rep 435 Posts Drives: '18 230i Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Huntington Beach, CA iTrader: (0)	"Reverse bleed" is the dumbest thing I've heard in a long time about car maintenance. This is below filling street tires with nitrogen. Yes I read about it. It's dumb. Nothing to be accomplished different from regular bleeding except the possibility of more leaking fluid. What am I missing? Don't mean this to be nasty but what? I've been wrong before.
	Appreciate 0 Quote