How I Scored a Fabulous Deal from the Comfort of My Easy Chair

[SRM135i]

Got offer from CA dealer for $500 over invoice and no MACO for 2009 135i.
If anyone got better offer than this one, please Reply/PM me.

[TSiggs]

Originally Posted by singular

Bump!

This thread has been too useful to let die!

Agreed, just scored an A4 for my GF using some of these techniques for $400 over invoice. She's going to beat me to a new car since hers is already being delivered. Mine's not even finished being built yet.

[hamham]

Originally Posted by SRM135i

Got offer from CA dealer for $500 over invoice and no MACO for 2009 135i.
If anyone got better offer than this one, please Reply/PM me.

I ordered my 09' 128 for $50 under invoice + $180 training fee + $300 MACO (I ask them to show me their invoice) with free floor mats, basically it's $430 above invoice.
I am sure someone got better deal than I do. Please be nice This was the lowest I can get and the exact car I want was only at the port. So my wait is only about 2 weeks, the car will arrive at the dealership anytime this week!

[Ajumepke]

Robert,

you show that the destination charge to be $775 - does this only apply to 2008 models?

The numbers I have for 2009 is $825

[Xin1120]

very nicely done, much respect to you. I will probably try this next time I'm in the market.

[CPSOX]

It's an interesting method, but just don't get pissed when your local dealership doesn't give you great customer service when you bring it in for scheduled maint.

I'm very fortunate to have a great relationship with my salesperson at my local dealership. The car buying experience is down to an email where I tell him exactly what I want. He knows I'm an educated buyer and we settle on a price that makes me want to blush....a followup phone call from him to confirm and we're done. Total time invested? 4 minutes.

I send him a referral or two during the year and I get the priviledge of knowing that when I need another car, I only have one place to look and the process will be 100% hassle free.

Relationships matter.

CPS

[Angry3]

Originally Posted by CPSOX

It's an interesting method, but just don't get pissed when your local dealership doesn't give you great customer service when you bring it in for scheduled maint.

I'm very fortunate to have a great relationship with my salesperson at my local dealership. The car buying experience is down to an email where I tell him exactly what I want. He knows I'm an educated buyer and we settle on a price that makes me want to blush....a followup phone call from him to confirm and we're done. Total time invested? 4 minutes.

I send him a referral or two during the year and I get the priviledge of knowing that when I need another car, I only have one place to look and the process will be 100% hassle free.

Relationships matter.

CPS

I completely agree that relationships matter, but not all of us are in large, competitive markets. I live in a metro of 1.5 million people with 1 BMW dealer, and they certainly won't quote an X over invoice deal over e-mail. In fact, if you're local, they won't quote you over e-mail at all. Relationships don't have anything to do with it in my case, I've known a couple of the CAs there for years, it's just how they do business.

As far as the service issue goes, that's a pretty minor concern IMHO. My BMW Center is overwhelmed in the service area all the time, and I pretty much feel like a nobody when I go over there. I don't ask for any favors, and they don't offer. But they always get the work done in the end, and my SA and I are cordial to one another. I bought my car out of inventory from a Bimmerfest supporting dealer, but I can't see that things would be any different if it was bought there.

Other than loaner cars, there's no discretion that should come into play in the service department, and as long as you're not an ass to your SA they will typically give you something to drive if your car is in for a major repair. I personally just don't see any major benefit in leaving a lot of money on the table to buy a car locally. If you have a local dealer that will play ball on price and treat you fairly, by all means use them. For me, I would rather spend the day taking a road trip to do any easy deal than "in the box" slinging BS back and forth with a floor manager and running 4 squares.

And though this fax/email approach seems to get lots of love here, I think you can get the same results with a lot less hostility and wasted time by casting a net that is less wide. Do your research, approach a few dealers that have reputations for honesty and catering to enthusiasts (forum supporters are a great place to start), and pick up the phone so the dealer's CA/Internet Manager can qualify you as a willing and able buyer. And realize that you will have a more pleasant experience if you resist the temptation to fight for every last penny in your deal (i.e. don't get pissed when they don't throw in your floor mats at pickup after you've hammered them down to $100 over). Get a signed buyer's order so there are no suprises at pickup, check the state fees and taxes, and you're in business.

In the end, everyone should do what works for them, and appreciate the fact that places like this give us all the ability to have information and choices in the buying process.

[singular]

I think the point in this thread is there should be no fight. The process is easy, fast, very cordial and does not waist anyone's time - yours or the dealers.

In my case, I didn't drive anywhere. I didn't make any phone calls until I closed the deal. There was no haggling. I had the quote I accepted in less than two hours after I sent my FAXes. The three closest dealerships in my area did not respond at all - that tells me a lot about how good a deal I could expect from them. The deal I accepted was about an hour's drive. I suppose I could have checked with my local dealerships to see if they would counter, but in my mind - they snoozed, and they lost. Hope they're listening!

As for service, it shouldn't matter where you bought your car. Your local SA makes his living from you bringing your car in. Relationships are a two way street. If the local SA gives me good service, I will continue to use them, and I *might* swing my next deal their way, assuming they make it worth my while. If the dealership is so petty that they treat me with less respect because I bought my car elsewhere - well that tells me a lot about what kind of small-minded bozo's work at that dealership. I might take my service and car purchases elsewhere, maybe even to another brand.

[BimmerLearner]

I did my deal online with a dealer about 60 miles away; best deal. My local dealer wouldnt work with me however, they seem more than happy to service my car, im guessing because they get paid by bmw for replacing the parts etc.

[JDBorges187]

I didn't want to start a new thread but this method can work you wonders on a CPO vehicle, and I am offering lists for free with fax number to first 10 people.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283460

[moveswiftly]

I attempted this and was very successful, 500 above invoice.

[Leilani]

[FJUNO78]

I used a similiar approach when negotiating. I found many dealerships who agreed to my offer $800 over invoice (including MACO and Training), but when they calculated the lease numbers they got creative and added anywhere from $7-$15 a month. When I questioned the payment, and showed them my spreadsheet, most said "that's not accurate" or "those things are just for a ballpark"...

Another hurdle was a few dealerships questioned the invoice pricing sheet saying that those numbers are a bit off, and you can't find valid information on the internet.

This woman at Paul Miller called me back, and her number was within pennies that my spreadsheet calculated. Done deal. I drove out there that night and signed the papers. Picked the car up last month

[luv135i]

I used the internet method aswell and I didnt even contact my local dealer until I had a deal finalized where all i needed to do is show up and sign. Took about 2 weeks of email traffic but I got a deal I couldnt refuse. My local dealer claimed they could beat any deal on a new BMW so I took them what I had in person from another dealership and signed a deal with them that day. They claimed they would beat any BMW deal in the state and they did!

[Skully]

I don't recommend faxing a price request. If you fax one here chances are it will never make it from the fax machine to a salesperson.

Request pricing online through the dealer website.

[AMSx2]

Hello guys, hope someone can help. I ve already somewhat started this method, but my biggest issue is that I do not know what is a good deal? or what deal I am looking for. I mean I know what I would like to pay but is that good or bad, who knows...is there someway I can figure that out, so that I am able to differentiate between the good and the bad offers? I am interested in leasing a 128i convertible 15,000 miles, automatic transmission, and that is pretty much it. What price should i expect, and where should my lease payments be? I live in NJ by the way. (I am looking to put a max of 2000 down, and I qualify for their new grad incentive, it is $1500). Please, I really hope someone replies soon, with atleast a website that can help me calculate the deal.

[AMSx2]

Originally Posted by FJUNO78

I used a similiar approach when negotiating. I found many dealerships who agreed to my offer $800 over invoice (including MACO and Training), but when they calculated the lease numbers they got creative and added anywhere from $7-$15 a month. When I questioned the payment, and showed them my spreadsheet, most said "that's not accurate" or "those things are just for a ballpark"...

Another hurdle was a few dealerships questioned the invoice pricing sheet saying that those numbers are a bit off, and you can't find valid information on the internet.

This woman at Paul Miller called me back, and her number was within pennies that my spreadsheet calculated. Done deal. I drove out there that night and signed the papers. Picked the car up last month

how do i make a spread sheet?

[Battleship Potemkin]

Originally Posted by AMSx2

Hello guys, hope someone can help. I ve already somewhat started this method, but my biggest issue is that I do not know what is a good deal? or what deal I am looking for. I mean I know what I would like to pay but is that good or bad, who knows...is there someway I can figure that out, so that I am able to differentiate between the good and the bad offers? I am interested in leasing a 128i convertible 15,000 miles, automatic transmission, and that is pretty much it. What price should i expect, and where should my lease payments be? I live in NJ by the way. (I am looking to put a max of 2000 down, and I qualify for their new grad incentive, it is $1500). Please, I really hope someone replies soon, with atleast a website that can help me calculate the deal.

A quick google search found this:
http://www.leaseguide.com/calc.htm

I can't vouch for the accuracy of this site, since I've never used it. Also, I think there's another thread here with the details for BMW's leasing terms.

P.S.: I've read comments that suggest you put down as little as possible, 'cause if the car gets totalled when you drive it off the lot your down payment disappears into the ether.

[Bmw1erfanatic]

Originally Posted by WishBone33

Thanks Robert! I just got $1000 over invoice because of your method!

I got 500 over invoice an I only went to 1 dealer.. thats including matts an doc fees..

[KingOfJericho]

You are negotiating the price of a car so mileage should not come into play until you're signing the contract and going over your payments. Edmunds.com was the only resource I used as it gives you the invoice price and MSRP. Don't send faxes... just call the dealer like a normal human being and tell them what you're willing to pay.

[Angry3]

Originally Posted by KingOfJericho

You are negotiating the price of a car so mileage should not come into play until you're signing the contract and going over your payments. Edmunds.com was the only resource I used as it gives you the invoice price and MSRP. Don't send faxes... just call the dealer like a normal human being and tell them what you're willing to pay.

For purchasers price, fees, and financing are all that matters (maybe only the first 2 if you have your own $). For lessees it isn't that simple. You have to negotiate all of the following up front:

1. Car price
2. Acquisition and other fees
3. Money factor

If you only negotiate the car at order time don't be surprised when your deal gets packed to the gills with fees and MF markups and your payment swells $50 or more a month.

Edmunds will not help you with current lease terms, you need to have the current residual and base rate that's applicable.

[KingOfJericho]

Originally Posted by Angry3

For purchasers price, fees, and financing are all that matters (maybe only the first 2 if you have your own $). For lessees it isn't that simple. You have to negotiate all of the following up front:

1. Car price
2. Acquisition and other fees
3. Money factor

If you only negotiate the car at order time don't be surprised when your deal gets packed to the gills with fees and MF markups and your payment swells $50 or more a month.

Edmunds will not help you with current lease terms, you need to have the current residual and base rate that's applicable.

What kind of savages are you guys dealing with? My CA was very open with me and didn't balk at my offer of $500 over invoice. We did a short back and forth and settled on $700 over with the then-standard MF of 220. Fees were right in line with what everyone else was paying at the time. If your dealer starts playing games then simply walk away and find another dealer.