Break in procedure 135i

[ItsHectic]

Breaking in my car at the moment, dont think there is a thread about this here so I will make one seeing as though I have just done the research.

Components that need breaking in:
Tires
Exhuast?
Transmission
Engine
Rotors

Engine and exhaust:
According to the manual for the 1st 2000KMs no revving past 4500RPM and no Wide Open Throttle.
Although you shouldn't baby the car either, I use half throttle max. Also vary the revs so I dont use cruise control yet and I also down shift here and there so my car is not always sitting at 1500rpm, this could be for the exhuast.

According to the manual after 2000KMs revs can gradually be risen, so I imagine dont redline until 3-4000KMs to be particular about it.

Transmission:
Guess this is self explanatory no hard launches, with DCT you arnt meant to ride the clutch such as on a hill or going from 1-5km constantly at all.
Staying out of sport mode is probably going too far as it IS available, launch control becomes available after 2000KM so I guess thats the full run in process for the gearbox and clutch.


Tires:
Tires will be slippery brand new, maximum performance is reached at 1000kms, they start to feel right at around 200-300kms, I recommend some highway driving asap to quickly wear in the tires which will give feel to the steering, for me 150kms of residential street driving did not do near as much as 50km on the highway.

Rotors:
I went by this which makes the most sense:
http://knol.google.com/k/how-to-bed-in-your-brakes#
Only doable at night I guess.

[Cuz5150]

Drive it like you stole it until 1,200 miles. Change engine oil......Enjoy the ride!

[Tom K.]

Originally Posted by Cuz5150

Drive it like you stole it until 1,200 miles. Change engine oil......Enjoy the ride!

Of course, BMW's engineers have other ideas - but what do they know?

OP, I've broken in 5 BMWs using your method and have been rewarded with excellent performance (and virtually no oil consumption) every time. Just be aware that, in terms of the best power and economy, a BMW isn't fully broken in until perhaps 5 to 10,000 miles.

Enjoy your new 135i!

Tom

[1speedbike]

^^ I used to believe in that, and then someone on the forum explained it to me. I forget exactly what he said, but that procedure mostly benefits motorcycles.

I think a mix is best. Periods of high throttle in a high(er) gear, followed by mostly tame driving. The crazy driving seals the piston rings well, while the rest of the tame driving doesn't place excessive wear on the engine. Also, shift a lot and vary RPMs as much as possible. I found a guy that explains it pretty well here (4th post down, einy):

http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/archi...p/t-3551.html?


Though I have also heard that most "new" engines nowadays are run in at the factory with an electric motor anyway, to seal everything right, check oil pressure is fine and nothing leaks, etc. So in this process, they seal everything up anyway. If that were the case, only a soft break-in would be necessary, but I don't see the hurt in an occasional WOT just in case to "help" seal the rings.

[HT1000]

There are many threads on break-in. The proper break-in is listed in your owner's manual. Abusive break-in can void your entire powertrain warranty.

For those who don't know the Moto Tune guy doesn't even know how piston rings function so do not follow his advise unless you want to damage your engine and void your warranty as his approach is abusive by BMW and other car maker's standards.

[ken1137]

So, was this break-in period the same 20 yrs ago for BMW? Engine technology and piston rings or seating the rings has changed a bit since we were kids. EG tolerances, equipment to target such tolerances, metal composition, etc...They do have to be seated properly which requires you to run the engine. Run it as normal, as you would drive any car with the exception of racing, and open it up a couple of times before 1200 mi. You won't hurt the engine or void your warranty. Why do people always go there ????!!!

[Tom K.]

Originally Posted by ianf

This method is proven... I've seen it work on track bikes very successfully.

And I guess since the manufacturer's recommended break-in worked beautifully on the 10 new street bikes I've owned oer the years, the standard method is also proven.

Tom

[IDBMW]

Originally Posted by 1speedbike

^^ I used to believe in that, and then someone on the forum explained it to me. I forget exactly what he said, but that procedure mostly benefits motorcycles.

I think a mix is best. Periods of high throttle in a high(er) gear, followed by mostly tame driving. The crazy driving seals the piston rings well, while the rest of the tame driving doesn't place excessive wear on the engine. Also, shift a lot and vary RPMs as much as possible. I found a guy that explains it pretty well here (4th post down, einy):

http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/archi...p/t-3551.html?


Though I have also heard that most "new" engines nowadays are run in at the factory with an electric motor anyway, to seal everything right, check oil pressure is fine and nothing leaks, etc. So in this process, they seal everything up anyway. If that were the case, only a soft break-in would be necessary, but I don't see the hurt in an occasional WOT just in case to "help" seal the rings.

If you ever toured the BMW plant in Spartanburg SC, they drive the cars off the assembly line and take them to redline for several seconds’ right after they start it up! So much for your gentle break in.
I break mine in a little rougher than BMW recommends. The 135i is BMW # 5 and never any engine/drive train issues. Also, I have rebuilt engines on motorcycles and PWC’s, break them in harder than recommended and never had any issues with them.

[chad29]

Every BMW comes with an OM that tells you precisely how the vehicle is to be driven during the break-in period. BMW has more expertise on the subject than people in forums who have never scientifically tested as BMW does to determine the proper procedure. I'll follow the factory stipulated procedure. It's worked just fine for me for 20 years.

[1speedbike]

Originally Posted by IDBMW

[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]If you ever toured the BMW plant in Spartanburg SC, they drive the cars off the assembly line and take them to redline for several seconds’ right after they start it up! So much for your gentle break .

So BMW does exactly what they tell owners not to do? Interesting. I don't doubt you, but if they do this, that would mean they already sealed the pistons, meaning I don't need to. Once they're sealed with hard pressure, adding more really won't seal them any more. So, what would be the point of driving it hard if its been done already?

[MPBK]

Originally Posted by 1speedbike

So BMW does exactly what they tell owners not to do? Interesting. I don't doubt you, but if they do this, that would mean they already sealed the pistons, meaning I don't need to. Once they're sealed with hard pressure, adding more really won't seal them any more. So, what would be the point of driving it hard if its been done already?

I just returned from the factory tour in Spartanburg.
It is true... every new car that rolls off the assembly line goes into a dyno type machine on rollers and the car is brought to 100mph. Computers measure key parameters and the test is PASS or FAIL. I saw it with my own eyes. The process takes about 10 mins.
It's not contradictory to what they tell us to do (not exceed 100mph). I don't know if they exceed the 4500rpm in that process.
So, I guess the piston sealing thing is done during that process. No need to do the harsh treatment anymore.
I will just follow the recommendation in the manual.

[1speedbike]

Originally Posted by MPBK

I just returned from the factory tour in Spartanburg.
It is true... every new car that rolls off the assembly line goes into a dyno type machine on rollers and the car is brought to 100mph. Computers measure key parameters and the test is PASS or FAIL. I saw it with my own eyes. The process takes about 10 mins.
It's not contradictory to what they tell us to do (not exceed 100mph). I don't know if they exceed the 4500rpm in that process.
So, I guess the piston sealing thing is done during that process. No need to do the harsh treatment anymore.
I will just follow the recommendation in the manual.

That was my thinking as well; instead of doing this stuff via electric motor like I had heard, they simply do it manually. Seals everything up, checks for leaks, etc. So I came to the same conclusion you did, following a softer break in if they've already done the work

[Red Bread]

The simple fact remains that either method works fine. There are all kinds of silly things in the manual, most of which aren't written by engineers, and many of us change our oil more frequently than the manual suggests too, but you don't see the counter argument for that. Do whichever you're comfortable with. Perhaps the most important thing in this thread is that getting an oil change well before the first scheduled one is almost certainly a good idea.

[MPBK]

Originally Posted by Red Bread

The simple fact remains that either method works fine. There are all kinds of silly things in the manual, most of which aren't written by engineers, and many of us change our oil more frequently than the manual suggests too, but you don't see the counter argument for that. Do whichever you're comfortable with. Perhaps the most important thing in this thread is that getting an oil change well before the first scheduled one is almost certainly a good idea.

On that note... Do I need to go to the dealer if I wanted that first "after break in" oil change?
I used to do it myself when there was a dip stick... I don't think the JiffyLube guy has the correct filter, do they? I do know they have the correct oil, Penzoil Ultra full synthetic, with BMW LL-1 and all.

[Red Bread]

Originally Posted by MPBK

On that note... Do I need to go to the dealer if I wanted that first "after break in" oil change?
I used to do it myself when there was a dip stick... I don't think the JiffyLube guy has the correct filter, do they? I do know they have the correct oil, Penzoil Ultra full synthetic, with BMW LL-1 and all.

You can order the filter online, or pick some up at the dealer. They're a paper, drop in filter.

[Tom K.]

Originally Posted by Red Bread

You can order the filter online, or pick some up at the dealer. They're a paper, drop in filter.

Tischer sells the entire oil change kit including 7 quarts of BMW 5w30 for about $65.00 online.

Tom

[MPBK]

Originally Posted by Tom K.

Tischer sells the entire oil change kit including 7 quarts of BMW 5w30 for about $65.00 online.

Tom

That helps. Thanks.
But I still need to jack up the car, get under it and most likely get my hands dirty with oil, probably to the elbow.
I can see why BMW did away with the dip stick but they could have left the hole there for an oil pump.