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03-20-2011, 01:33 PM | #23 |
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Shows how much you know. :P They CAN"T blame a HPFP on downpipes. And if you let them, then you deserved to get screwed lol.
It's funny that you have 3 people here that have gotten the repairs done with our mods in place. How many in this thread (or anywhere) have gotten the warranty denied and refused a HPFP based on their mods? Hmmmmmm?
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03-20-2011, 01:46 PM | #24 |
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Well i wouldnt count on it. Removing the cats can affect how rich your mixture runs which can affect the pumps in their eyes. Honestly, either way, i dont really feel like going to battle for months with lawyers against bmwna over some warranty shit when I dont have to..
If you got the time and money then go for it, I dont. |
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03-20-2011, 02:25 PM | #25 |
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You might want to read the Moss/Magnuson act.
Although they can deny warranty on anything, if you accept it, that's your fault.
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03-20-2011, 02:48 PM | #26 |
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03-20-2011, 03:28 PM | #27 |
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I'm pretty sure they will replace HPFP no matter what after the recall, mine was replaced once FBO and second time FBO+meth.
rattling wastegates, that's a different story
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Last edited by randomquickness; 03-20-2011 at 03:42 PM.. |
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03-20-2011, 04:09 PM | #28 |
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No problems ever taking the car in for HPFP or injectors or scheduled maintenance with Catted DP (4 dealers in 3 states). But, my very mod friendly dealer now still insists I remove any tune before bringing the car in.
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03-20-2011, 04:22 PM | #29 |
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Hmm well I hope I have as much luck with whatever dealers there are down in Raleigh, moving the end of this month. Removing a tune is no big deal to me as long as they dont mention the bolt on's with warranty work.
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04-22-2011, 09:36 PM | #30 |
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What was the solution for this OP? I have the same issue now after my new DPs were installed, but I have not thrown any codes.
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04-24-2011, 03:28 PM | #31 |
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the OP get this fixed?? i got AR dp's and would like to know what the issue realy is.
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04-24-2011, 09:56 PM | #32 |
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The vclamps according to his other post: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...86&postcount=6
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07-12-2012, 10:53 AM | #34 |
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I just installed DPs and I am only building 11 psi on COBB stg 2 + FMIC sport... Anyone with this flash know the correct boost lvl? I just got the COBB 2 days ago.. saw the picture of the V band clamp and wastegate actuator and pretty sure its it. But, its bedtime for this graveyard shift worker..
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07-12-2012, 01:49 PM | #35 |
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no idea what cobb stage 2 boosts, but my giac hits around 17.5psi in 80 degree weather (15.5 psi in 40-50 deg weather).
11psi seems low if you're going WOT to 7k rpm, that's not much more than stock in hot weather...
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07-13-2012, 08:22 AM | #36 |
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So, I got under the car again and sure enough. The wastegate actuator arm was hitting the bolt on the short DP. Had to take everything out to get that clamp in the right position. If anyone is reading this make before installing.... make sure the bolt on the short DP does not obstruct the wastegate actuator arm!! I'm building up to 18 psi now on COBB stg2+... but, I notice my idle is low at -8psi anyone with knowledge on what this could be. From what I understand it should be around -18psi..
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07-13-2012, 10:21 AM | #37 |
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-8 psi (relative, gauge pressure) is about right for idle. -18 psi would be less pressure than a complete vacuum, thus impossible. Even at sea level with a complete vacuum you couldn't see less than -14.7.
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07-13-2012, 01:21 PM | #38 |
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yea i get about -19 in hg when idle and warmed up.
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Last edited by Solid; 07-13-2012 at 03:13 PM.. |
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07-13-2012, 03:07 PM | #39 |
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-19 in Hg is also about right. Your unit of measure matters! 1 in Hg is about half a psi.
Also keep in mind at first start up there is less vacuum as the engine warms up (might only be -4 psiG or -10 in Hg). In very cold weather that could last a few minutes.
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07-13-2012, 09:12 PM | #40 |
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Thx Freon, I see you have a COBB AP too? Can you confirm your idle is around -8psi? It shouldn't differ between which map is running. Just want to be doubly sure
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07-13-2012, 09:55 PM | #41 |
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i have the p3cars (rixeffects) digital boost gauge and i get -18 psi idle and and neutral after a warmup.. its -15 or so when my car is coldstart warmup, but that only lasts 30 seconds to a minute.
My vent gauge taps off of the same line that feeds the diverter valves from the manifold. Are people that get -8 psi at idle and neutral using DME PSI readings?? i think -18 is correct pressure for real time readings. And its been this way on my car for a few years.. The whole reason for having a boost gauge is to have separate , real time and actual psi readings in your manifold. seems everyong that has cobb has -8.. so guess thats normal then, in regards to you az 1zeries aka wootang!!
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Last edited by romak47; 07-13-2012 at 10:20 PM.. |
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07-14-2012, 06:40 AM | #42 |
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As long as there's no leaks! Just to throw the info out there. My initial psi at cold start is around -4psi and then settles at -8 psi at idle. ambient temperature 100 F elevation 2300 ft above sea.
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