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      12-14-2017, 02:24 PM   #1
mfindigital
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New owner, ready to start modding

I picked up a 2011 135i with 39k miles on the clock last week. I love, love the car. I've been doing some research into some entry level modifications. I love the cars power, but there is nothing wrong with a little extra.

The steering is a little vague on turn in (disappointing as this is my first BMW and I've been looking forward to the steering feel forever). From what I've read, the M3 front control arm kit will resolve a bit of that.

Power wise, MHD clearly seems to be the favorite method. I will be ordering a FMIC first, as that's stated as a reccomendation and I will be doing quite a few Angeles Crest Canyon runs.

Main question, does the VRSF 5" FMIC require any cutting of materials? And is
http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-7-front...2-e90-e92.html
the best place to order from? I really do not want to do any trimming if possible. I've seen different opinions and several threads don't mention if they went with 5" or 7".

Thanks is advance!
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      12-14-2017, 03:12 PM   #2
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Choice of hardware is dictated by your goals. So, what power level are you aiming for?

That said, if you don't want to cut, the best fmic in that category is the ATM unit.
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      12-14-2017, 03:19 PM   #3
mfindigital
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Choice of hardware is dictated by your goals. So, what power level are you aiming for?

That said, if you don't want to cut, the best fmic in that category is the ATM unit.
Thanks for the reply! I would like to avoid cutting, as I purchased an extended warranty and that would be a pretty obvious giveaway.

I don't have outlandish power goals, I'm looking to make 375-400 crank hp, mid to high 12's type performance. My canyon runs are joined with a Viper (who's car is way too powerful for canyons, so he won't leave me the way you'd think), and a 2016 911 Carrera 4s. I think 400 crank will have me with somewhat with them power wise, and the M3 suspension bits are a good start handling wise.
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      12-14-2017, 04:32 PM   #4
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Might just want to try the MHD OTS Stage 1+ map, and if that doesn’t suit your fancy, try a custom MHD tune. Dead simple setup.
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      12-14-2017, 04:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
Might just want to try the MHD OTS Stage 1+ map, and if that doesn’t suit your fancy, try a custom MHD tune. Dead simple setup.
I am definitely going with the MHD stage one, but safety is as important to me as the power is, and as they recommend an upgraded FMIC, I will definitely be purchasing one. I've had two cars blow motors because I cut a few corners (mazdaspeed 3 and honda s2000), and don't want to deal with that ever again.
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      12-14-2017, 07:42 PM   #6
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Get yourself a good FMIC, larger than you think you need, a catless DP, and start with the MHD 1+ and go from there. I'd also recommend a high flow panel filter at the very least, if not the BMS N55 intake or similar. The idea here is to relieve as much stress on the turbo as possible. With a N55 you won't have too much trouble getting to 400 crank, but 400whp will be unobtainable without a good bit of work.

Do you have access to E85? A bit of ethanol in the tank without pushing significantly higher boost will help things along timing wise especially in socal heat. I run about 50% mix all summer here.

Get it all set up, and run a couple logs and let's take a look and see how your car likes the low boost MHD maps.
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      12-15-2017, 02:59 AM   #7
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Learn the car before doing ANYTHING to it.

In stock form I think the power is enough to overdrive the suspension/bushings. So upgraded suspension should be the first priority. That includes traction upgrade (add LSD).
After that then add more power.

I know virtually all of us go power first. And it's because power is cheaper. But then we never get to use all the power because we are fighting for control most of the time. Had we been smarter ...
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      12-15-2017, 09:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Get yourself a good FMIC, larger than you think you need, a catless DP, and start with the MHD 1+ and go from there. I'd also recommend a high flow panel filter at the very least, if not the BMS N55 intake or similar. The idea here is to relieve as much stress on the turbo as possible. With a N55 you won't have too much trouble getting to 400 crank, but 400whp will be unobtainable without a good bit of work.

Do you have access to E85? A bit of ethanol in the tank without pushing significantly higher boost will help things along timing wise especially in socal heat. I run about 50% mix all summer here.

Get it all set up, and run a couple logs and let's take a look and see how your car likes the low boost MHD maps.

Which larger FMIC doesn't require cutting? I know the path I want to follow, I'm just looking for tips on that path.
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      12-15-2017, 11:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfindigital View Post
Which larger FMIC doesn't require cutting? I know the path I want to follow, I'm just looking for tips on that path.
Helix/atm is your best option so mentioned above. Vrsf standard fin pack is pretty garbage IMO.
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      12-15-2017, 02:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Helix/atm is your best option so mentioned above. Vrsf standard fin pack is pretty garbage IMO.
Thank you very much for the advice, I stumbled across an install thread of the ATM intercooler and noticed there was trimming necessary, especially with DCT equipped cars, so I guess I'm going with the ETS 5", which also seems like a pretty quality piece. Thanks again for the tips, really excited about playing the catch-up game with my buddies carerra 4s (it's the last NA version, which I think is an attainable goal performance wise).
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      12-15-2017, 04:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfindigital View Post
Thank you very much for the advice, I stumbled across an install thread of the ATM intercooler and noticed there was trimming necessary, especially with DCT equipped cars, so I guess I'm going with the ETS 5", which also seems like a pretty quality piece. Thanks again for the tips, really excited about playing the catch-up game with my buddies carerra 4s (it's the last NA version, which I think is an attainable goal performance wise).
Hard to find one requiring absolutely zero trimming. Good luck with your install!
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      12-18-2017, 12:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfindigital View Post
I am definitely going with the MHD stage one, but safety is as important to me as the power is, and as they recommend an upgraded FMIC, I will definitely be purchasing one. I've had two cars blow motors because I cut a few corners (mazdaspeed 3 and honda s2000), and don't want to deal with that ever again.
Did you upgrade the fuel pump on the Speed3 ?
If not, that was your problem. Engine ran lean, cylinder 3 overheated and.....Zoom Zoom BOOM.
I had a modded Speed6 for ten years ;-)
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      12-19-2017, 09:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfindigital View Post
Thank you very much for the advice, I stumbled across an install thread of the ATM intercooler and noticed there was trimming necessary, especially with DCT equipped cars, so I guess I'm going with the ETS 5", which also seems like a pretty quality piece. Thanks again for the tips, really excited about playing the catch-up game with my buddies carerra 4s (it's the last NA version, which I think is an attainable goal performance wise).
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Hard to find one requiring absolutely zero trimming. Good luck with your install!
ETS 5" should require no trimming and yes it's a quality piece, highly recommend.
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      12-19-2017, 10:57 AM   #14
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canyon runs? if i were you, start with decent tyres (ps4s) lsd, m3 control arms coilovers and mhd stage 1
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      12-19-2017, 01:44 PM   #15
mfindigital
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandinca View Post
Did you upgrade the fuel pump on the Speed3 ?
If not, that was your problem. Engine ran lean, cylinder 3 overheated and.....Zoom Zoom BOOM.
I had a modded Speed6 for ten years ;-)
I eventually had the mazda bulletin work done on the MS3, but what caused the explosion was that stupid Boost Cut Defender some user over there was selling, before people were able to find a way to increase boost through the ECU (early stages of ms3 ownership were lean in the modding world, very little support aside form cp-e). That car was a headache and a half, but fast when it worked correctly, and great build quality.
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      12-19-2017, 01:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
ETS 5" should require no trimming and yes it's a quality piece, highly recommend.
Great, thank you. That's the route I'm heading, after the holidays (so my wife doesn't think I spent the baby's xmas money on an FMIC).
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      12-19-2017, 01:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTN55 View Post
canyon runs? if i were you, start with decent tyres (ps4s) lsd, m3 control arms coilovers and mhd stage 1
I'm going to stay away from coilovers, my car clears my steep driveway by literally a centimeter, and I find the struts to be pretty great on this car, with the M sport suspension. Also very nice to have these big powerful brakes, this is a hell of alot of car for the money, but control arms and mhd stage 1 are definitely the route. LSD would be great, but they are quite pricey, I'll probably wait to find one on the user market here.
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      12-19-2017, 02:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfindigital View Post
I'm going to stay away from coilovers, my car clears my steep driveway by literally a centimeter, and I find the struts to be pretty great on this car, with the M sport suspension. Also very nice to have these big powerful brakes, this is a hell of alot of car for the money, but control arms and mhd stage 1 are definitely the route. LSD would be great, but they are quite pricey, I'll probably wait to find one on the user market here.
You lost me at the struts being pretty great. Bilsteins or Konis, even on the stock springs, will be a huge upgrade in terms of overall "plantedness." Rear subframe bushings and struts were definitely the biggest upgrades for me on my car, though the combination of a new front sway bar and lower control arm bushings did wonders for front-end responsiveness.
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      12-19-2017, 02:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfindigital View Post
I eventually had the mazda bulletin work done on the MS3, but what caused the explosion was that stupid Boost Cut Defender some user over there was selling, before people were able to find a way to increase boost through the ECU (early stages of ms3 ownership were lean in the modding world, very little support aside form cp-e). That car was a headache and a half, but fast when it worked correctly, and great build quality.
Ahh, OK, I got in after COBB started producing OTS maps with their AP.
Fuel pump upgrade, catless downpipe and a full intake was a huge improvement without upgrading the K04 and FMIC.
Yeah, they're a headache, simplest things are a bitch to work on....PCV for example. It's a three hour job to remove the manifold, replace the $20 PCV and re-install the manifold.
The K04 would fry it's seals and on the 6 the transfer case was blocking the oil and coolant drains from the turbo making it a huge task to replace.
Rear diff mount, rear struts, stock downpipe removal, a total PITA to work on....oh Mazda....
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      12-19-2017, 02:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
You lost me at the struts being pretty great. Bilsteins or Konis, even on the stock springs, will be a huge upgrade in terms of overall "plantedness." Rear subframe bushings and struts were definitely the biggest upgrades for me on my car, though the combination of a new front sway bar and lower control arm bushings did wonders for front-end responsiveness.
I've had my last 4 cars on yellows, they are my favorite strut, but my biggest issue is the vague turn in. From what I've read, the m3 control arms help resolve that. There is some float, but some float can be a good thing. I will be doing the rear subframe bushings as well.
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      12-19-2017, 03:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfindigital View Post
I've had my last 4 cars on yellows, they are my favorite strut, but my biggest issue is the vague turn in. From what I've read, the m3 control arms help resolve that. There is some float, but some float can be a good thing. I will be doing the rear subframe bushings as well.
If you want to save some money, you could just replace the bushings in the stock front control arms. You'll be missing out on some camber, if memory serves, but I went poly up front and the vagueness you talk about went way down. Still not an ///M car, but notably better than stock.

RSFB for the win. I couldn't believe the rear-end hop I was getting at highway speeds when I hit uneven surfaces. I went poly there, too, and the back end settled right down.
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      12-20-2017, 06:49 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfindigital View Post
...guess I'm going with the ETS 5", which also seems like a pretty quality piece.
Yes, no trimming at all there, direct fit. I have the ETS 5", love it, and it's plenty of cooling power, and a practical upgrade in and of itself, given the tiny stock FMIC. I like that upgrades on this car are also "good" for the car, so to speak, for example more robust charge pipe, and improving over the leaky stock diverter valves.

I went progressively, but would up going down the full bolt on path, to eventually include catted downpipes from Cobb, aFe dual cone intakes, Cobb charge pipe, Forge Diverter valves, aFe catback exhaust. MHD wasn't around when I started, so did the Cobb Accessport, went through their stages of tuning compatible with parts installed at each step, then finally a custom tune from ProTuningFreaks when they were still doing the N54. Super driveable, very sedate for traffic or cruising, but a definite beast when the pedal goes down, pushing 20 psi at WOT.

I plan to do a walnut blasting (am about due for one, again) and then will dyno the car, hopefully in January, since I'm very curious what my numbers are, but it certainly keeps up with some strong runners.

I don't find that my power level is overwhelming my suspension (although I did do the M front control arms, and rear bushing inserts, but everything else is how it came) and I agree with your take on things, in terms of what to do first and how to proceed.

Congrats on your buy. Enjoy!
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