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12-26-2014, 08:01 PM | #1 |
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How have you improved you 135i brakes?
Hey you guys! What have you done to your brakes? OEM parts? Aftermarket parts? Upgraded pads, calipers, rotors? BBK? How do you use your car too? Track monster? Street cruiser? Daily driver?
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12-26-2014, 08:35 PM | #2 |
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Are you asking as a poll type question or are you looking for ideas for your car? The only reason I am asking is because the answer usually depends on what you plan to do with the car. Is it for show or track events or just to improve the feel for your daily drive?
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12-27-2014, 03:19 AM | #3 |
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To improve these brakes, I would buy :
- Pagid RS29 (yellow) good for strong street use and track - steel hose + Motul RBF600 - why not rebuilding the joints of the calipers if they have some miles - front disk in two parts like those sold on ECS Tuning website : it will lower the unsuspected mass and improve the handling in turning (for the front only, I don't know if it exists for the rear, if so, it will increase a but the acceleration) Then, you have all of these BBK but my advice was in order to be OEM like Hope it can help !
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12-27-2014, 09:46 PM | #4 |
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Mine - 08' 135i
Use - Daily with a couple track days Brakes - Stock calipers and rotors, Stoptech Street Performance Pads, Motul RBF600. I reference Stoptech because for the money it's hard to beat for a dual purpose pad. It's not a full track pad by any means but still a great compromise for those who don't want a dedicated set of rotors and pads for the track. Again, these aren't track pads but still hold up well to a couple hard sessions without to much degradation. This topic has been discussed at length and there are several options depending on your needs/use. I wouldn't waste money on drilled/slotted rotors or two piece rotors like ECS offers, as there really isn't much benefit vs cost. For the majority of people I suggest good pads (of your choice) and good fluid. That's it. If you plan on tracking quite a lot, start in stages with performance type pads and moving up as you progress and get faster. I see no need to do anything to the calipers other than a good visual inspection after each track day. If you see the dust boots starting to melt it's time for a rebuild. There are kits out there for that include piston seals and dust boots that are reasonably priced. If you see degradation in the phenolic pistons (cracking or broken) there are stainless replacement pistons available. At that point you should look into additional cooling. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663510 OR, if you have the money, just buy a BBK Hope this helps.
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12-28-2014, 03:06 AM | #5 |
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E82MSport, I agree with you even if I have the little stock OEM brakes on my E82 (same as the 128i ones).
In fact, I only put some RBF600 liquid and steel hoses and I felt the difference immediately after. Still on OEM pads, I will change all my brakes with the complete Performance set (thanks to a adaptation rear) when my pads will be dead. 135iRick, if you can have the opportunity to buy the Performance rotors, do it ! A friend of mine who track quite hardly his tuned 135i in Dijon Prenois said to me they are quite impossible to kill ! Hope this help again
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12-28-2014, 11:05 AM | #6 | |
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For my car specifically though, I would like something to help improve the feel of my daily driver which I do tend to drive more spiritedly. |
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12-28-2014, 02:03 PM | #7 |
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:)
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12-28-2014, 02:07 PM | #8 |
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Like tro-nik said, putting some CSL disks is a very good idea Some french E82 drivers who are tracking their car use this adpatation !
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12-28-2014, 09:59 PM | #9 |
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What should I look for in Motul? How much? Size?
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12-29-2014, 05:24 AM | #10 |
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Regarding fitment of the CSL rotors on the 135i - have we sorted out how to get the caliper adapters in North America yet?
Edit: PM'ed Tro-nik and got the details ... Did anyone try rear CSL rear rotors? Are adapters needed? (stock size is 324x22 and CSL is 328x20). Edit #2: Rear rotor choices are limited, due to parking brake housed inside rotor hat. The rear rotors are not as critical as they are not working as hard and dissipating as much heat... Can 17 inch wheels still be used (my winter setup) ?
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 12-30-2014 at 10:04 AM.. |
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12-30-2014, 09:56 AM | #11 |
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I do track my modded 135i a lot, and never completely got rid of brake fade on stock rotors + calipers + rubber lines + Motul RBF600 fluid, using a variety of brake pads. The best results I ever obtained were when I used fresh Project Mu Club Racer 09 pads. They had zero fade issues for several track days, but eventually crumbled and lost some fade resistance due to thinning pad thickness .
I know I need to work on cooling, or bringing cool air to the center of the rotors more efficiently. My wider 18x8.5 wheels and 255/35R18 tires in the front aren't helping as they block more of the air flow. Ive tried Hardbrakes 0.5mm Ti heat shields, BMW F30 "winged" dust shields, with no noticeable cooling effects. Also tried bending the shields some more. Yesterday, in an effort to determine whether brake duct flexible piping could be fitted and routed from my front bumper vents to the center of my rotors, I lifted the car up and turned the steering from left to right. Their is absolutely no room in there without pinching and severing the flexible tube... After two intensive lapping seasons (April to November), the stock 135i caliper seals and pistons also need to be refreshed. In order of preference due to limited budget, Im wondering whether to get: #1 - Removing the dust shields completely. #2 - Russian made adapters (Tro-Nik member) + front stock BMW CSL ZCP drilled rotors. #3 - ECS Tuning 2-piece rotors with RB (RacingBrakes) caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines #4 - RB 2-piece rotors with caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines #5- Entry level BBK ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 06-02-2015 at 09:54 AM.. |
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12-30-2014, 10:55 AM | #12 | |
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12-30-2014, 11:07 AM | #13 | |
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Looks like the ECS's are more for show than function ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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12-30-2014, 06:27 PM | #14 | |
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12-30-2014, 09:51 PM | #15 |
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Here's what I'm using, it's not perfect, but seems to get me by at all D.E.s and very spirited canyon driving:
Calipers: Stock 135i Discs: OE style, Centric blanks Pads: Hawk DTC70/60 Fluid: ATE Typ200 or comparable Misc: Ti-Shims + bent splash shields Will be working on making functional brake ducting for the 2015 season.
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12-30-2014, 11:01 PM | #16 |
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#1
Calipers: BMWP (135i equiv.) Rotors: BMWP Pads: Stoptech street performance Fluid: Castrol (not SRF) Notes- Fluid, pads and tyres went on the track #2 Calipers: BMWP (135i equiv.) Rotors: BMWP Pads: Stoptech street performance Fluid: ATE Super Blue Note- Yet to fit HEL braided lines, yet to track, fluid change improved feel #3 (To be tested) Calipers: BMWP (135i equiv.) Lines: HEL Rotors: BMWP Pads: (still deciding, likely Pagid or PFC) Fluid: ATE Super Blue Further steps required would be the RB pistons and F30 shields |
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12-31-2014, 11:23 AM | #17 | |
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Not sure I want drilled rotors for track use, as brake pad wear will be accelerated, and rotors are more prone to cracks. I assume the BMW CSL drilled rotors are more solid though... Here are approximate cost estimates below ... #1 - Removing the dust shields completely DIY job so no costs to do this as the next step. #2 - Russian made adapters (Tro-Nik member) + front stock BMW CSL ZCP drilled rotors. DIY job and ~ $900CAD in parts #3 - ECS Tuning 2-piece rotors with RB (RacingBrakes) caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines DIY job and $450 + $500 + $200 = $1150USD + shipping and duty fees #4 - RB 2-piece rotors with caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines DIY job and $700 + $500 + $200 = $1400USD shipping and duty fees #5- Entry level Front BBK ... DIY job and $2200 (Wilwood) to $3500 (Stoptech, RB, PFC, etc) #6 - stock rotors + RB rebuild kit + SS brake lines DIY job and $360 + $500 + $200 = $1060USD + shipping and duty fees
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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12-31-2014, 12:51 PM | #18 |
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Garage List F15 X5 xDrive35i [8.75]
E86 Z4 M [10.00] F10 550i (Retired) [9.17] F25 X3 xDrive35i (R ... [9.43] E82 135is (Retired) [9.50] E85 Z4 M (Retired) [9.41] E90 328i xDrive (Re ... [9.25] E86 Z4 3.0si (Retired) [9.24] |
I haven't tracked my 1-er yet but speaking from experience on my Z, I have to say that brake cooling REALLY works and I would imagine proper ducting being fed inside the rotors would probably address most of the overheating issue found in these calipers.
But stock rotors + RBF 600 + PFC pads + brake cooling is where I would START. For the cost of 2 piece rotors, ss lines and upgrading the pistons, may as well spend a little more and get a Stoptech bbk up front. Stoptech front kit $2400 (and sometimes you'll see 10% promotions so could be had for less than $2200) vs: 2-pc RB rotors $1200 Pistons $360 for set of 2 SS lines $125 Total: $1685 Price difference of $475 - big brake kit worth it IMO. Last edited by 3002 tii; 12-31-2014 at 12:57 PM.. |
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12-31-2014, 02:50 PM | #19 | |||
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Look at this post regarding the RB BBK, where too much cooling can also have adverse effects. Leads me to believe that properly designed rotors might be all that is needed for the 135i ... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=22
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 12-31-2014 at 02:59 PM.. |
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12-31-2014, 03:16 PM | #20 | |
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Garage List F15 X5 xDrive35i [8.75]
E86 Z4 M [10.00] F10 550i (Retired) [9.17] F25 X3 xDrive35i (R ... [9.43] E82 135is (Retired) [9.50] E85 Z4 M (Retired) [9.41] E90 328i xDrive (Re ... [9.25] E86 Z4 3.0si (Retired) [9.24] |
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Here's a view under my Z, and I see E46 folks doing similar routing: And into the wheel: Edit: I see Berk was able to run ducting into their 135i and I'm sure they're running square wide tires Last edited by 3002 tii; 12-31-2014 at 03:32 PM.. |
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12-31-2014, 03:41 PM | #21 | |
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12-31-2014, 04:07 PM | #22 | |
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Garage List F15 X5 xDrive35i [8.75]
E86 Z4 M [10.00] F10 550i (Retired) [9.17] F25 X3 xDrive35i (R ... [9.43] E82 135is (Retired) [9.50] E85 Z4 M (Retired) [9.41] E90 328i xDrive (Re ... [9.25] E86 Z4 3.0si (Retired) [9.24] |
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