06-16-2017, 11:13 PM | #23 | |
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06-16-2017, 11:21 PM | #24 | |
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06-16-2017, 11:25 PM | #25 | ||
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06-17-2017, 02:15 PM | #27 |
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I'll throw my two cents worth in this discussion because it's a lovely saturday morning and too hot to do anything today. : )
Here it is. The radiator cools the "engine coolant" hence the primary method to cool the engine. I know everyone has different opinions, but can we agree on that? OK, seeing as the radiator is the primary method of cooling the engine, it will have the biggest cooling effect, even on the oil. Whereas, the oil cooler wouldn't have as much effect on the coolant. Seeing as our cars already have an oil cooler, I would first approach the radiator and improve both thermal capacity and and airflow. If you can cool the coolant better, it will help keep the oil also. You could have an oil cooler twice the size of the radiator and if the radiator is not working, the car will still overheat so if you are racing, you really should address the radiator, airflow, fans and the water pump. Luckily, our pump can speed up when needed so really the radiator, fans and airflow are the most important part. Personally, I have always wondered about the underside cover since all the heat coming from the oil coolers, radiators, intercooler goes into the engine bay and is kept there by the underside cover. I would consider venting that somehow but it can also have aerodynamic considerations and reduce protection from objects jumping up on the track. One of the biggest problems with the radiator however, is that the AC Condenser is in front of it, reducing airflow to the radiator. I assume you are not running AC on the track of course. Anyway, that is my 2 cents worth. Thanks for the interesting thread! So I would look the radiator |
06-17-2017, 03:31 PM | #28 | |
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06-18-2017, 10:43 AM | #29 |
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Could you not just replace the 2 standard rads in the arch liners with bigger, more efficient ones? The ER Sport/Advan oil coolers have large rads, something similar but for both sides would certainly help.
I've got the ER competition on my 135, as I don't have the extra water cooler, and track my car. Recently at Silverstone my oil temp didn't get above 110℃ degs after 6 continuous laps.
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06-18-2017, 06:25 PM | #30 | |
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another side question: does anyone know if there's an upgrade option for the aux rad cooler?? i guess i could just go dual oil with the larger rad in now but was just wondering/i would like to keep the aux rad just to keep it stock feeling |
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06-18-2017, 07:06 PM | #31 |
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The CSF 8042 is a drop in upgrade but it is unclear to me how significant an upgrade it is. But it's the only one I know of that doesn't require trimming or anything else. When I talked to ER a while back they recommended the sport (I.e. Single) cooler rather than the competition twin.
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06-18-2017, 07:31 PM | #32 | |
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06-18-2017, 07:44 PM | #33 | |
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When I talked to ER they reported their experience which was that overall temps would be effectively controlled on the 1M with their stock sport (single) oil cooler because of the 1M's aux radiator, and that the dual competition cooler was unnecessary. I'm personally don't have any cooling upgrades (yet) although it seems increasingly likely that I'm going to install a 7045 radiator, if for any purpose just for (hopefully) increasingly the longevity of the car. Some of this is just shooting in the dark though because I don't know what water temps I'm encountering. I've been kicking around the idea of getting a P3 gauge just so that I can monitor coolant temps. Regarding the dinan oil cooler, the only feedback I can offer hearsay from a guy running a tuned (400hp) 335i yesterday at MRLS. When I was talking to him about cooling mods, he said that after he installed the Dinan oil cooler, all of his limp mode issues went away. |
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06-18-2017, 09:36 PM | #34 | |
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also thanks for the e90post link, cool read, and word regarding the p3 gauge, i'm also shooting in the dark regarding coolant temps. i was in the same boat as you when i thought of getting the 7045 for longevity reasons. at the track i was always worried about the temps so when they got high i would run an early cooldown lap and pit in. so just for peace of mind and to safeguard against ever getting the temps too high and ever going limp i decided to drop in the 7045 and its been working great. can't comment on the water temps but it noticeably faster in bringing the car's oil temps back down to normal operating levels (i know bmw says the car's oil goes to 300 but jeebus i rather not push it anywhere near there), usually would have to run a 3/4 to full cooldown lap to get the temps back below 250 but now it takes me about half a lap. the temps now drop even when i'm driving through the pits to my spot; if i happen to come off the track without a cooldown lap and oil around 270, i usually just drive around the paddock real slowly (< 14 mph paddock speed limit at buttonwillow) and it drops down to 260 in about 30-45 seconds i'd say and then with another minute or so, stabilizes under 250 to around 240 or so, would definitely recommend , its been a blessing. now i'd just love to have the temps locked down at no more than 260 when going balls deep at the track. other than the dinan and er single oil cooler upgrades have you guys run across any other companies with larger single oil coolers for our cars? i never tuned my previous car so i'm just getting acquainted with how bolt-on's go/how cars work in general/what companies are out there, thanks again all, cheers Last edited by digwm1; 06-18-2017 at 09:47 PM.. |
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06-20-2017, 05:31 PM | #35 | |
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My car isn't a daily driver, other than driving to/from the track. As you've already got the CSF radiator for water cooling, I would just get the bigger cooler rad's and replace the OEM ones, keep all the piping the same etc, something along the lines of advan cooler which uses a sebtrab more efficient rad. I've got a v2 performance wheel fitted, which shows the oil and water temps on the lcd screen, very useful.
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06-20-2017, 08:47 PM | #36 | |
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and thanks for the link to the advan cooler, that actually looks like a solid step forward, i'ma have to look into going that route as well now and word, i'm trying my hardest to fight the temptation to go full blown track 1m as it is my daily so i'm mega jealous you've got yours just for the weekends/track days thanks again for all your help Tinsta |
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06-20-2017, 10:19 PM | #37 |
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I have been watching my temps on the accessport for the past few days since I discovered in this thread that "ECT" is Engine Coolant Temp.
On a cold start, my coolant temp rises to about 210-215F within the first 5-6 minutes and stays there until the oil temp reaches 215F. Once the oil is up to 215, the coolant temp is brought down and maintained at 180-190F. It seems to be by design to get the oil warmed up as quickly as possible. This is all stock cooling hardware. I'll report back after a track day. I am interested to see whether I will need to upgrade the oil cooler or primary radiator. I will run a slightly detuned map at the track. (17psi max tapering to 13psi at 6k). Now to find the time in my schedule for a track day.
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06-21-2017, 03:10 AM | #38 |
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No problem digwm1.
Another option to get the coolant/oil temps etc is via the hidden secret menu, which can show the temps on the lcd screen between the speed & tachno. Further info here
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06-21-2017, 03:24 PM | #40 |
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Yes, until you switch the ignition off, you can scroll through the menu and see oil temps/battery voltage etc.
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06-21-2017, 07:06 PM | #41 | |
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Tinsta once again thanks for awesome find hahaha, i'ma have to try that secret menu out later today and check out my own coolant temps |
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06-23-2017, 04:35 PM | #42 |
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1M guys looking for a solution should give my thread a read through. I found one, but it wasn't cheap.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1350738 |
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06-23-2017, 09:19 PM | #43 | |
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06-24-2017, 01:34 PM | #44 |
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I finalize my details through email and ended up wire transferring the money so you'll have to email them
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