1M Akrapovic install

[emack]

The power for the flap runs through the headlight circuit, so the operation of the wireless kit is as follows:

1. Flap closed or "nice" mode default at start (wireless button shows white);
2. Headlights off - flap closed or "nice" mode;
3. Headlights on - press the wireless button, flap opens and "naughty" mode engaged (wireless button shows red).
4. Things get a little tricky when you use your headlights on the auto setting, whereby on sunny days (not a problem lately) the default will be flap closed or nice mode as the headlights aren't on, hence no power to the flap.

IMO the reason for the wireless kit is that in naughty mode, we are talking REALLY REALLY naughty. The sound is amazing, but definitely draws attention, which is OK I guess (not what I'm looking for.......I did it just for me) except if they happen to be dressed in a blue uniform.

The easy option if you draw the wrong kind of attention is to either kill your engine when you are "pulled over" (thus returning to nice mode when you are asked to restart your car) or simply switch the headlights off or press the wireless button (although this may be obvious??) to enter "nice".

Also, I don't know how educated our friends in blue are, but placing the wireless button in the charger near the ipod is a little more subtle. You can also keep it in your pocket somewhere or even on you key ring as it is also battery operated.

Hope this helps.

[andrew@southernBM]

I didn't like that set up, so i wired in to main power of the cig lighter in the boot. If i want it off, it's off, if i want it on, it's on. Why would they link it to a light circuit when check control is so sensitive

[andrew@southernBM]

Ian,
Cig lighter still works that is just to power the switch, the bluetooth switch still sits in the cig lighter in the driver compartment, it's the power for the bluetooth solenoid in the boot that were are talking about here. This diverts the vaccum that comes from the engine down the the wireless kit.

[M1one1M]

Originally Posted by andrew@southernBM

Ian,
Cig lighter still works that is just to power the switch, the bluetooth switch still sits in the cig lighter in the driver compartment, it's the power for the bluetooth solenoid in the boot that were are talking about here. This diverts the vaccum that comes from the engine down the the wireless kit.

Hi Andrew,

Does the Akra installation manual specify the headlight or the cigarette lighter as the correct power supply for the wireless solenoid?

And if so does it show you how to do it correctly?

Thanks

[andrew@southernBM]

Ok, i'll try to make it easier to understand.

Point 1) the switch or the button that you press to operate the valve is in the cigarette lighter holder, which you have one in the centre consol at the rear near your USB port under your armrest and one up the front in the ashtray area. The switch that you press fit's in either cigarette holder. This is the switch that you press to operate the valves. It is a wireless device.

Point 2) The switch can only operate if it has a bluetooth receiver. This receiver needs a power and an earth to be connected to the car. This is located in the RHR boot area behind the tail light, underneath the RH liner trim. This reciever pairs to the switch that we spoke about in point 1. The earth point is on the inner wheel arch and the power pick up is taken from the tail light wiring plug. The problem that i see with this is two fold. It opens up the chances for a check control failures error messages on the dash and if you have DRL lights on, then you have a chance of the valve opening and closing whenever. To avoid this, i picked up the power for the cigarette lighter socket that is in the RHR liner trim in the boot. So no chance of error messages from the light circuit and no way the valve will open if i go under a tunnel and the DRL's come on. I chose to the do it this way. It doesn't mean anyone else has to. The instructions are very clear with images of how Akrapovic want it done, i just disagree on this point.

Point 3) The vacuum line that runs from the boost accumulators run underneath the car between the body and the plastic under body trays, down the RH side, and up to the receiver. From the receiver it goes across the suspension area to the wireless valve that is in the exhaust system.

Does that make it clear now?

[M1one1M]

Originally Posted by andrew@southernBM

Ok, i'll try to make it easier to understand.

Point 1) the switch or the button that you press to operate the valve is in the cigarette lighter holder, which you have one in the centre consol at the rear near your USB port under your armrest and one up the front in the ashtray area. The switch that you press fit's in either cigarette holder. This is the switch that you press to operate the valves. It is a wireless device.

Point 2) The switch can only operate if it has a bluetooth receiver. This receiver needs a power and an earth to be connected to the car. This is located in the RHR boot area behind the tail light, underneath the RH liner trim. This reciever pairs to the switch that we spoke about in point 1. The earth point is on the inner wheel arch and the power pick up is taken from the tail light wiring plug. The problem that i see with this is two fold. It opens up the chances for a check control failures error messages on the dash and if you have DRL lights on, then you have a chance of the valve opening and closing whenever. To avoid this, i picked up the power for the cigarette lighter socket that is in the RHR liner trim in the boot. So no chance of error messages from the light circuit and no way the valve will open if i go under a tunnel and the DRL's come on. I chose to the do it this way. It doesn't mean anyone else has to. The instructions are very clear with images of how Akrapovic want it done, i just disagree on this point.

Point 3) The vacuum line that runs from the boost accumulators run underneath the car between the body and the plastic under body trays, down the RH side, and up to the receiver. From the receiver it goes across the suspension area to the wireless valve that is in the exhaust system.

Does that make it clear now?

Great explanation, Thanks Andrew.

You answered my question regarding what way Akra says to do it. I think the way you have done it is much much better because of the reasons you stated.

Did you have to splice any wires (what did you have to do) to be able to pick up the power for the receiver in the boot from the cigarette lighter power source instead of using the power from the tail lights? this is what I'm interested in.

Apologies for asking another question, but this was my question all along.
Hope you can help.

Cheers.

[andrew@southernBM]

I just made up a quick piggy back loom, which is what Akra do. You could splice or use a wiring connector also.

[Alpine*]

Still reckon the Full Monty without the flap is horn, save the money try it without it and if you soft out you can add it later.

[M1one1M]

Originally Posted by andrew@southernBM

I just made up a quick piggy back loom, which is what Akra do. You could splice or use a wiring connector also.

Any pictures of this loom you made?