Any Ideas

[Esteban]

Car started badly the other day. Yellow half engine light, rough idle, smelled of gas. Stalled, would not start again.

Checked for codes with Carly and this code popped up: 002BDA (rail pressure sensor, electrical: short circuit to ground).

Fuel injector or HPFP? Wiring harness issue or high side fuel leak?

This has happened 3 or 4 times in about a year. When I clear the code, the car behaves normal.

Does anybody have any ideas?

[jeddo45]

When is the last time you have had your injectors serviced?
What's your mileage? At about 78k, mine started giving me issues and I had similar symptoms: ton of white smoke, limp mode, stalled out, wouldn't start.

[tock172]

From the code you posted, it sounds like the fuel rail pressure sensor is experiencing an intermittent soft failure.

[Happy Jose]

Clearing the fault code won't solve the problem. Eventually the car won't run.

The smell of gas is usually caused by the injector remaining open. Also the plug gets fouled. For some reason, your injector starts functioning again.

There is a part called the fuel rail pressure sensor which costs $50 and monitors the pressure of fuel pump. I'd try replacing it. You don't say which cylinder. If you know, I'd replace the plug or pull all of them for an examination. Finally, replace the injector on the offending cylinder. You'll have to take it to a shop to have it coded and make sure you record all the information about it, since it is necessary to code.

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

When is the last time you have had your injectors serviced?
What's your mileage? At about 78k, mine started giving me issues and I had similar symptoms: ton of white smoke, limp mode, stalled out, wouldn't start.

Closing in on 36K.

Originally Posted by tock172

From the code you posted, it sounds like the fuel rail pressure is experiencing an intermittent soft failure.

Can you expand on that?

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by Happy Jose

Clearing the fault code won't solve the problem. Eventually the car won't run.

The smell of gas is usually caused by the injector remaining open. Also the plug gets fouled. For some reason, your injector starts functioning again.

There is a part called the fuel rail pressure sensor which costs $50 and monitors the pressure of fuel pump. I'd try replacing it. You don't say which cylinder. If you know, I'd replace the plug or pull all of them for an examination. Finally, replace the injector on the offending cylinder. You'll have to take it to a shop to have it coded and make sure you record all the information about it, since it is necessary to code.

Thanks for the info. My indy shop said "the rail sensor is on the high side, and this is a sensor that we have not had to replace before. We do replace the low sides all the time."

BTW, I know clearing the code won't solve the problem, but it does allow me to drive the car if need be. lol

[tock172]

Originally Posted by Esteban

Can you expand on that?

The short circuit code that is logged for the fuel pressure sensor suggests that the sensor itself is either faulty or on the verge of failure. It's either giving implausible readings causing the injectors to likely remain open and introduce excess fuel into a combustion chamber that is not ready for it, or is experiencing an intermittent electrical failure which is sending a bad signal, causing the same issue.

Because the code came up for the sensor itself and not an injector, I'm inclined to posit that the failure is with the sensor. Nonetheless, it could also be an injector that is no longer up to spec, leaking fuel into the cylinder.

Either way, it's good idea to see how fouled the plugs are. Eventually, continuing to drive with this issue can cause a clogged catalytic converter. The same problems can be caused by misfiring coil packs which also result in excess fuel going downstream.

[Happy Jose]

Originally Posted by tock172

The short circuit code that is logged for the fuel pressure sensor suggests that the sensor itself is either faulty or on the verge of failure. It's either giving implausible readings causing the injectors to likely remain open and introduce excess fuel into a combustion chamber that is not ready for it, or is experiencing an intermittent electrical failure which is sending a bad signal, causing the same issue.

Because the code came up for the sensor itself and not an injector, I'm inclined to posit that the failure is with the sensor. Nonetheless, it could also be an injector that is no longer up to spec, leaking fuel into the cylinder.

Either way, it's good idea to see how fouled the plugs are. Eventually, continuing to drive with this issue can cause a clogged catalytic converter. The same problems can be caused by misfiring coil packs which also result in excess fuel going downstream.

This is pretty much correct!

However, I have been fixing stuff like this for a while. I used to enjoy it, and today I find it a PITA. What I once did was study the problem and devise a theory to fit the problem. I then tried to solve it. Sometimes I actually did!

Today I take a different approach. When I see words like electrical or short, I look for a bad ground or broken wire, very common stuff. I then replace parts starting with the cheapest one.

High side, low side, who knows? The interactions between the ignition, fuel and computer just are too involved to fathom. Also the messages that a scanner can spit out sometimes aren't very revealing to the DIYer, but best suited to the trained pro.

But I have found that the part that needs replacing or the repair necessary won't always make any sense in regard to the error message. In any case, it's worthwhile taking a shot at it.

BTW, I recently diagnosed a bad injector on my own car with a new scanner I just bought. I had the Gold warranty, so the dealer fixed it. BMW was billed $500. I know how to make these kinds of repairs and could have done it for much much less.

Why do I have the warranty? To handle the expensive stuff I can't fix like this DCT transmission.

[tock172]

Originally Posted by Happy Jose

This is pretty much correct!

However, I have been fixing stuff like this for a while. I used to enjoy it, and today I find it a PITA. What I once did was study the problem and devise a theory to fit the problem. I then tried to solve it. Sometimes I actually did!

Today I take a different approach. When I see words like electrical or short, I look for a bad ground or broken wire, very common stuff. I then replace parts starting with the cheapest one.

High side, low side, who knows? The interactions between the ignition, fuel and computer just are too involved to fathom. Also the messages that a scanner can spit out sometimes aren't very revealing to the DIYer, but best suited to the trained pro.

But I have found that the part that needs replacing or the repair necessary won't always make any sense in regard to the error message. In any case, it's worthwhile taking a shot at it.

BTW, I recently diagnosed a bad injector on my own car with a new scanner I just bought. I had the Gold warranty, so the dealer fixed it. BMW was billed $500. I know how to make these kinds of repairs and could have done it for much much less.

Why do I have the warranty? To handle the expensive stuff I can't fix like this DCT transmission.

It's like you read my mind. I just bought an extended warranty for my '12 135i last month when the CPO coverage expired. I went for a platinum exclusionary plan, as I had a good experience with a similar agreement with my last 135i.

In terms of repairs, it's like you said: been there, done that with several other previous BMWs. The difference in the past was that I was relying on these cars for transportation and the stress level was always high. I still DIY most the maintenance on my Honda and E30, but those are a completely different story than the 135i in terms of cost of parts and complexity of the work. I let the warranty company pay my local independent mechanic who's also a good friend.

By the way Esteban, if it's any consolation, I can detect a slight bit of misfiring in my 135i during hot idle. I'm nearly due for plugs as it is, so I'll know more when I have that completed.

[Gangplank]

Sorry to see this buddy. I think you have some good advice above. I'd take it to a respectable indy and let them scan it with their BMW scan tools. Sounds like a bad sensor or injector.

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

Sorry to see this buddy. I think you have some good advice above. I'd take it to a respectable indy and let them scan it with their BMW scan tools. Sounds like a bad sensor or injector.

Thanks Josh... got an appointment with my indy shop next Tuesday morning. Will report back here with what they find.

[c1pher]

Sorry to hear this. I am of no help. I have 35,000 miles at this point too.

[chris_flies]

170k (10k of my own) miles, and no issues like this. (Insert NA FTW here)

Hope you find it's only an inexpensive issue!

[MightyMouseTech]

That code seems pretty specific. DME saw 0 V from the high pressure sensor.

Most sensors operate from 0.5-4.5 V (on a 5V circuit). Below that means a short to ground somewhere (or internal failure of sensor, like a broken wire, but inside the sensor) above that means a short to power. (or internal short of sensor, so no resistance)

I would think the first step would be to replace that sensor, and check the wiring going to it at the same time.

[c1pher]

Dealer contacted me on a new M2 available......ugh tempting....so is a new Raptor though lol.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by MGM135is

Dealer contacted me on a new M2 available......ugh tempting....so is a new Raptor though lol.

Wow, can't get more different.

[Happy Jose]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

Sorry to see this buddy. I think you have some good advice above. I'd take it to a respectable indy and let them scan it with their BMW scan tools. Sounds like a bad sensor or injector.

I would heartily disagree with this. First, I don't know how one would determine the respectability of any Indy or for that matter a BMW shop!

BTW, if you don't have a warranty, BMW charges you $150 to run a scan! I doubt the Indy gives you a free scan.

Not to use cliches, but to be forewarned is to be forearmed. If you get the above scanner loaded with BMW software, it'll diagnose the problem. I know, because I just bought one, $150, and did just that. I had a Gold warranty, so the dealer fixed it charging BMW $500. Incidentally, I know how to replace an injector which is about as difficult as replacing a plug.

BTW, if you don't have a warranty and can diagnose the problem, the dealer won't charge you for a scan. However, the point is to know just what the problem is, so some Homer doesn't rip you off.

[c1pher]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

Wow, can't get more different.

Yeah I know! Can’t afford bth though, so it would be one or the other since I got my Corvette last Summer. Woe is me.....

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by MGM135is

Yeah I know! Can’t afford bth though, so it would be one or the other since I got my Corvette last Summer. Woe is me.....

Get the Raptor *eats own words*, you've got the 'Vette for fun road-based stuff and doing impractical things. You just need a Raptor for the off-road stuff, and for doing practical things...

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by Happy Jose

I would heartily disagree with this. First, I don't know how one would determine the respectability of any Indy or for that matter a BMW shop!

BTW, if you don't have a warranty, BMW charges you $150 to run a scan! I doubt the Indy gives you a free scan.

Not to use cliches, but to be forewarned is to be forearmed. If you get the above scanner loaded with BMW software, it'll diagnose the problem. I know, because I just bought one, $150, and did just that. I had a Gold warranty, so the dealer fixed it charging BMW $500. Incidentally, I know how to replace an injector which is about as difficult as replacing a plug.

BTW, if you don't have a warranty and can diagnose the problem, the dealer won't charge you for a scan. However, the point is to know just what the problem is, so some Homer doesn't rip you off.

Why so angry @Happy Jose? He already has Carly which is how he got the code. Personally I'll never take my car to a bmw dealership but that's because I don't trust their service teams. Too many bad experiences

Indy shops can be good and bad. I'm always able to find a good one where I live and then I stick with it.

With that code he should go to an Indy shop and ask them to replace the sensor and check the wires to it. Btw this error is intermittent for him so it comes and goes. Which to me indicates the sensor is going out.

Why do I think that? I recently had a bad oil level sensor. It would intermittently show low oil. Changed sensor under warranty and fixed.

Oh and any good shop won't charge to diagnose if you get the work done there.

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

170k (10k of my own) miles, and no issues like this. (Insert NA FTW here)

Hope you find it's only an inexpensive issue!

Thanks bro... I don't think this is a turbo or DCT issue so it can probably happen to any of us.

[tock172]

Originally Posted by Esteban

Thanks bro... I don't think this is a turbo or DCT issue so it can probably happen to any of us.

It's definitely something related to the high pressure direct injection system on the N55. The N52 of the 128i uses manifold injection at much lower pressure.

Originally Posted by Happy Jose

I would heartily disagree with this. First, I don't know how one would determine the respectability of any Indy or for that matter a BMW shop!

BTW, if you don't have a warranty, BMW charges you $150 to run a scan! I doubt the Indy gives you a free scan.

Not to use cliches, but to be forewarned is to be forearmed. If you get the above scanner loaded with BMW software, it'll diagnose the problem. I know, because I just bought one, $150, and did just that. I had a Gold warranty, so the dealer fixed it charging BMW $500. Incidentally, I know how to replace an injector which is about as difficult as replacing a plug.

BTW, if you don't have a warranty and can diagnose the problem, the dealer won't charge you for a scan. However, the point is to know just what the problem is, so some Homer doesn't rip you off.

I've never come across an independent mechanic that charges to run a quick scan. This is typically free, like a repair estimate, in hopes of getting people to visit the shop.