Alternative way to remove front struts

[krando67]

Hey everyone,

So I just got done replacing my strut mounts on my 2010 128i because of an annoying sound over bumps. The way I removed the struts (I was able to remove them), I didn't see anywhere online so I figured I'd share it with you.

Most threads I saw says to compress the springs, remove top 3 nuts and then push the whole assembly down and pull the strut out of the wheel well while it's still on the knuckle. I tried it but it didn't work for me. So what I did was to bolt the 3 nuts back onto the car after using the spring compressors and then pushed the knuckle out of the strut. This magically worked, otherwise I was out of ideas. The compressors were almost all the way tight before I did this so keep that in mind.

Once the strut was out, I had to go get a second set of spring compressors to compress the spring enough to let go of the top so I can disassemble the strut.

I don't write on forums much so please let me know if I'm missing something.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by krando67

Hey everyone,

So I just got done replacing my strut mounts on my 2010 128i because of an annoying sound over bumps. The way I removed the struts (I was able to remove them), I didn't see anywhere online so I figured I'd share it with you.

Most threads I saw says to compress the springs, remove top 3 nuts and then push the whole assembly down and pull the strut out of the wheel well while it's still on the knuckle. I tried it but it didn't work for me. So what I did was to bolt the 3 nuts back onto the car after using the spring compressors and then pushed the knuckle out of the strut. This magically worked, otherwise I was out of ideas. The compressors were almost all the way tight before I did this so keep that in mind.

Once the strut was out, I had to go get a second set of spring compressors to compress the spring enough to let go of the top so I can disassemble the strut.

I don't write on forums much so please let me know if I'm missing something.

This is the way I do it on my car as well. Works great as a solo job method. Nothing you're "missing" at all.

[brocklanders]

That is strange, I didn't need a compresser until the strut was out to get the assembly apart.

[Fume]

I have never done suspension work on cars before so I'm kind of curious what the original problem is that you had to do it this way. What makes it hard to do the more obvious technique of compressing springs and dampers and angling it out of the wheel well and then removing the strut from the knuckle?

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by Fume

I have never done suspension work on cars before so I'm kind of curious what the original problem is that you had to do it this way. What makes it hard to do the more obvious technique of compressing springs and dampers and angling it out of the wheel well and then removing the strut from the knuckle?

Nothing wrong with that approach, just requires good coordination to do that by yourself, and fender damage seemed to be a big risk if solo as well. I also found removing the strut from the knuckle first to be faster, but maybe that's just me.

[dtla1]

I also loosen the front control arms if necessary to get the knuckle assembly to swing a bit lower if necessary.

[S4NoMore]

Originally Posted by dtla1

I also loosen the front control arms if necessary to get the knuckle assembly to swing a bit lower if necessary.

Do you think it's necessary to replace those LCA bolts? I've heard that they are stretch bolts.

[S4NoMore]

Originally Posted by krando67

I just got done replacing my strut mounts on my 2010 128i because of an annoying sound over bumps.

Can you describe the noise you were hearing? Did new strut mounts solve it?

[S4NoMore]

App double post, please delete

[Hops128i]

Originally Posted by krando67

Hey everyone,
Most threads I saw says to compress the springs, remove top 3 nuts and then push the whole assembly down and pull the strut out of the wheel well while it's still on the knuckle. I tried it but it didn't work for me. So what I did was to bolt the 3 nuts back onto the car after using the spring compressors and then pushed the knuckle out of the strut. This magically worked, otherwise I was out of ideas. The compressors were almost all the way tight before I did this so keep that in mind.

I really like this idea, it seems much simpler, but how hard do you have to push down of the wheel to loosen it from the strut? When installing my camber plates, i moved the whole assembly out of the wheel well, used a hex socket as a spreader on the knuckle to get the strut out. I really did not come out that easy, really had to work with it, twisting back and forth.

[CarJunkie]

A bit off topic, but this is a DIY front suspension thread, so here goes:

I seem to be getting spring bind with low speed cornering maneuvers after installing Vorshlag camber plates. Symptom is a slight popping sensation in the steering wheel about 3-4 times when turning lock to lock while stopped or traveling less than about 5mph. I verified that everything is tight, including swaybar end links. There is no noise, and everything is crisp, responsive and smooth when driving.

Basically, the rotational movement of the strut seems to be choppy, a pretty well described issue with macpherson struts. The spring coils slightly as it is turned from the lower mount and as rotational tension builds up, it eventually overcomes the rotation resistance in the top mount and moves all at once. The Vorshlag instructions do not call for lubricating the plates on install. The rotational movement is controlled by a sealed bearing that should be totally maintenance free.

I have also posted in the 1M specific forum, but it seems a lot of you guys run the camber plates as well. Any ideas? Is it possible I overtightened the top nut? (Their instructions seem to suggest much more risk of problems with an undertightened nut.)

When steering, my whole strut shaft rotates. (meaning a wrench placed on the strut top nut would rotate as much as the tire) Is that normal?

[_Ryan_]

Originally Posted by CarJunkie

1-
I seem to be getting spring bind with low speed cornering maneuvers after installing Vorshlag camber plates. Symptom is a slight popping sensation in the steering wheel about 3-4 times when turning lock to lock while stopped or traveling less than about 5mph. I verified that everything is tight, including swaybar end links. There is no noise, and everything is crisp, responsive and smooth when driving.

Basically, the rotational movement of the strut seems to be choppy, a pretty well described issue with macpherson struts. The spring coils slightly as it is turned from the lower mount and as rotational tension builds up, it eventually overcomes the rotation resistance in the top mount and moves all at once. The Vorshlag instructions do not call for lubricating the plates on install. The rotational movement is controlled by a sealed bearing that should be totally maintenance free.

2-
Is it possible I overtightened the top nut? (Their instructions seem to suggest much more risk of problems with an undertightened nut.)

3-
When steering, my whole strut shaft rotates. (meaning a wrench placed on the strut top nut would rotate as much as the tire) Is that normal?

1- Do you have any thrust sheets/Torrington bearings installed?

2- Unlikely, what did you use to tighten it? Under tightening makes them noisey.

3- Expected- the strut rotates when steering.

[CarJunkie]

I don't have thrust sheets, but the Vorshlag camber plates designed for OEM struts include a sealed bearing for rotation.

The problem has been solved, and the top nut WAS over tightened. Once loose, the problem went away. My spherical bearings were handling the rotation, so not just the strut shaft but the whole spherical bearing. The top nut must have been tight enough to lock the rotational bearing. Once I loosened the top nut, the spherical bearing stopped rotating (which is good, it shouldn't be rotating) and the symptom went away. I tightened everything back just enough to allow smooth rotation without the spherical bearing rotating at all, and the symptom is gone.

[krando67]

Originally Posted by Hops128i

I really like this idea, it seems much simpler, but how hard do you have to push down of the wheel to loosen it from the strut? When installing my camber plates, i moved the whole assembly out of the wheel well, used a hex socket as a spreader on the knuckle to get the strut out. I really did not come out that easy, really had to work with it, twisting back and forth.

I literally stepped on it and only then it came off. Found out that my problem wasn't even strut mounts. It was sway bar end links. Either way, it's fixed now.