12-29-2014, 02:34 PM | #111 |
Thread killer
642
Rep 1,896
Posts |
1&done -
My local shop installed the rear coilovers without using the rubber seat that is located between the vehicle body and the rear height adjuster. I'm wondering if it's worth bringing it back to have it installed properly. (I've already had the car back once because the Swift thrust sheets were installed backwards.) Argh. I haven't had the chance to drive the car very much since installation, so I'm not entirely sure if there is any added noise at this point without the rubber seat in place. |
Appreciate
0
|
12-30-2014, 09:32 AM | #112 |
Lieutenant Colonel
247
Rep 1,585
Posts
Drives: 2011 VO 1M
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jupiter, FL
iTrader: (28)
Garage List 2010 Porsche 911 GT3 [10.00]
2021 BMW X5 SD40i [0.00] 2023 Toyota TRD Pro [0.00] 2011 BMW 1M [9.83] 2014 Ford Raptor [0.00] 2005 Ariel Atom 2 [0.00] 2008 135i SOLD [10.00] |
If you are not having noise I wouldn't worry about it. Adding the thrust bearings isn't too big of a job if you needed to do it later.
Turns out 90% of the noise I was having in the rear was a loose sway bar link bolt...w/ that tightened and the bearings installed it's noise free I do get some noise upfront when turning the wheel. Could be the camber plates. Plan to get a set of adjustable sway bar links and get corner balanced. If it persists after I'll loose the plates
__________________
///1M #643 of #740
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-03-2015, 12:07 AM | #113 | |
Major
168
Rep 1,479
Posts
Drives: 2017 F80 M3
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Houston, TX
|
Quote:
__________________
_______________________
1991 E30 M3/Brilliantrot 2017 F80 M3/AW |
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-03-2015, 02:54 PM | #114 |
Thread killer
642
Rep 1,896
Posts |
I reached out to Ohlins and they told me that the rubber seat is intended to prevent the height adjuster from rotating against the body when changing rear spring preload, and there was the possibility of slightly increased noise. Not having the rubber seats isn't harmful in any way.
As an aside, I think I've settled on 18 clicks from closed for street, which is pretty close to what Harold from HPA suggested in a previous thread. It's a bit softer than what Ohlins recommends in the manual. The coilovers at that street setting are somehow able to make the car less busy and frenetic without at all diluting the connection to the road or the visceral feel of the car. It's pretty much spot on. |
Appreciate
0
|
02-08-2015, 01:05 PM | #115 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
403
Rep 1,620
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
2023 G80 M3 2020 F87 M2C 2011 E82 BMW 1M Series Coupe Check me out at Point.Shift.Drive (YouTube) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-09-2015, 11:18 AM | #116 | |||
Brigadier General
827
Rep 3,856
Posts |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks |
|||
Appreciate
0
|
02-20-2015, 01:10 PM | #117 |
Supreme Allied Commander
3839
Rep 54,348
Posts
Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com
|
Noise is not common with the Ohlins, but it can happen. Typically is due to the metal to metal contact and spring twisting and shifting. Swift thrust sheets will help if the noise is due to spring twist and shift between the lower control arm and height adjuster.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-22-2015, 12:00 PM | #118 | |
Thread killer
642
Rep 1,896
Posts |
Quote:
I am having a hell of a time trying to get the lower control arm aligned with the spindle assembly. I'm using a jack to raise the control arm as well as a jack to raise the spindle. I can't seem to push the wheel assembly inwards enough to align the holes despite wrestling with this for hours. If anyone has any other tips to help that would be massively appreciated as I am currently bruised, beaten and broken ... |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-22-2015, 09:32 PM | #119 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
247
Rep 1,585
Posts
Drives: 2011 VO 1M
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jupiter, FL
iTrader: (28)
Garage List 2010 Porsche 911 GT3 [10.00]
2021 BMW X5 SD40i [0.00] 2023 Toyota TRD Pro [0.00] 2011 BMW 1M [9.83] 2014 Ford Raptor [0.00] 2005 Ariel Atom 2 [0.00] 2008 135i SOLD [10.00] |
Quote:
__________________
///1M #643 of #740
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-22-2015, 11:01 PM | #120 | |
Thread killer
642
Rep 1,896
Posts |
Quote:
I -finally- got one side put back together (to my great surprise) ... Emboldened I took my newfound knowledge and confidence and started on the other side. History repeats itself, unfortunately. Will have to find time tomorrow to attack it again. Freaking unbelievable, that bolt. I can see myself throwing the alignment off to hell if I mess with the camber bolt ... |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-23-2015, 11:47 AM | #121 | |
Supreme Allied Commander
3839
Rep 54,348
Posts
Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com
|
Quote:
Only the lower control arm needs to be supported, that way the bearing carrier/spindle is left free to move around to align everything. Jack or raise the lower control arm to the bearing carrier/spindle. Once you get it close you can use a punch to further align everything before inserting the bolt. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-23-2015, 01:54 PM | #122 | |
Thread killer
642
Rep 1,896
Posts |
Quote:
Are you using the punch as a lever inserted all the way through the assembly or are you using it to lever each side of the carrier bearing? (Any idea what size punch you are using in the shop?) I've been getting by with a stout screwdriver... -- UPDATE: Ultimately I was able to get things aligned enough to shove a 3/8" extension through to the other side despite the spindle bearing not being perfectly aligned. (This was after 90 minutes of fussing with using anything I could as a lever to align the holes, including the punch technique.) By levering the extension bar in the proper direction, I could get a sense of where the spindle assembly needed to move in order to align the control arm optimally. Then I used a second jack (the portable kind included by manufacturers in cars) at an angle to move the spindle assembly in the proper direction. This got the spindle bearing aligned enough that I just used the punch to tweak from both sides, and the bolt passed through. Unorthodox, likely. Thanks again for your guidance! It will be interesting to see if all these machinations further reduce the noise I've been hearing from the rear. Last edited by ayao; 02-24-2015 at 12:01 AM.. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2015, 10:30 PM | #123 |
Lieutenant Colonel
247
Rep 1,585
Posts
Drives: 2011 VO 1M
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jupiter, FL
iTrader: (28)
Garage List 2010 Porsche 911 GT3 [10.00]
2021 BMW X5 SD40i [0.00] 2023 Toyota TRD Pro [0.00] 2011 BMW 1M [9.83] 2014 Ford Raptor [0.00] 2005 Ariel Atom 2 [0.00] 2008 135i SOLD [10.00] |
^ I too struggled with it at first, once you do it a few times it gets hella easier. Are you getting any noise upfront?
__________________
///1M #643 of #740
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-25-2015, 10:58 AM | #124 |
Thread killer
642
Rep 1,896
Posts |
I'd say there's a little more noise, although I'm sensitive to it. Sounds slightly different from stock with regard to small road imperfections ... Instead of a solid thunk it sounds more like two separate noises. I can't quite tell if it's on rebound or compression. I have thrust sheets installed up front. It's far from a deal breaker level of noise, though ...
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-12-2015, 09:05 PM | #125 |
Lieutenant Colonel
403
Rep 1,620
Posts |
I just bought a set of the R&Ts (E9XM3 version) and i am getting them installed next thursday. id like to order the remote adjusters. anyone know where i can pick some up with the quickness?
Also, I just read through the entire thread and i still have a question. has anyone figured out the best ride height that correlates handling with looks? my concern is the front. from what i gather leaving a 1inch gap from top of fender to top of tire in the front is best for looks but handling? anyone have an opinion? the rears seem slammed anyways. basically i am trying to get more of "stance" look but with OEM wheels. i think we need spacers too. anyone try that yet? if so, what mm? what brand?
__________________
2023 G80 M3 2020 F87 M2C 2011 E82 BMW 1M Series Coupe Check me out at Point.Shift.Drive (YouTube) Last edited by blackmist222777; 03-12-2015 at 09:22 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
03-13-2015, 02:33 PM | #126 | |
Thread killer
642
Rep 1,896
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-13-2015, 05:52 PM | #127 |
Lieutenant Colonel
403
Rep 1,620
Posts |
thank you. ordered
__________________
2023 G80 M3 2020 F87 M2C 2011 E82 BMW 1M Series Coupe Check me out at Point.Shift.Drive (YouTube) |
Appreciate
0
|
03-18-2015, 12:27 PM | #128 |
Lieutenant Colonel
403
Rep 1,620
Posts |
Wondering... from anyone who has lowered their cars, does it need spacers ? i image it does since the wheels will look sunk in. if so, how wide? anyone have pics?
__________________
2023 G80 M3 2020 F87 M2C 2011 E82 BMW 1M Series Coupe Check me out at Point.Shift.Drive (YouTube) |
Appreciate
0
|
03-20-2015, 09:45 PM | #129 |
Lieutenant Colonel
403
Rep 1,620
Posts |
OK... update. I just got my R&T Ohlins installed. they came with Vorshlag camber plates (slightly used from a fellow forum member). heres the weird thing... I started to drive home from the shop where i had the install done. as i hit the freeway i started to hear a strange frictiony sound. metallic in nature but sounded like it was coming from up top in the passenger front.
i went back to the shop for the next day to have them investigate. they hear the sound too after a short test drive. they start to look around to make sure everything was tight and nothing was left not double checked. eventually they decided to remove the strut brace. they drove it. the noise? gone. WTF? so we started to add insolation all around the brace. test drove it. noise is back. we tried using rubber mounts all over the brace. the noise? back. remove the brace? no noise. it was agonizing. anyone ever have this happen? any solutions? i ended up just removing and keeping the strut brace off. not super happy bout that but at least the sound is gone. thoughts?
__________________
2023 G80 M3 2020 F87 M2C 2011 E82 BMW 1M Series Coupe Check me out at Point.Shift.Drive (YouTube) |
Appreciate
0
|
03-21-2015, 05:32 PM | #130 |
Thread killer
642
Rep 1,896
Posts |
Doesn't sound normal, which you already know.
Writing just to express sympathy, in hopes the more experienced wrenches on the forum will help you get it sorted out. Please update when solution is found. |
Appreciate
1
|
03-23-2015, 09:50 PM | #131 |
Colonel
291
Rep 2,898
Posts |
I'd be almost certain it's related to the camber plates.
They're bolted to the strut towers together with the strut brace. The plates likely are noisy as a result of a worn bearing. That or they were assembled and/or installed improperly. The insulation idea strikes me as ridiculous. Neil |
Appreciate
0
|
03-23-2015, 10:12 PM | #132 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
403
Rep 1,620
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
2023 G80 M3 2020 F87 M2C 2011 E82 BMW 1M Series Coupe Check me out at Point.Shift.Drive (YouTube) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|