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12-20-2012, 09:53 PM | #45 | |
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12-20-2012, 10:11 PM | #46 | |
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12-21-2012, 08:14 AM | #47 |
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I now have a benchmark for what I'm shooting for
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Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death… – Hunter Thompson
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12-21-2012, 08:43 AM | #48 | |
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nothing wrong with aiming really high buddy but first you need to beat my time
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12-21-2012, 12:44 PM | #49 | |
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12-21-2012, 02:20 PM | #50 |
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12-21-2012, 07:11 PM | #51 | |
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12-21-2012, 07:33 PM | #52 | |
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And beside all that even a 15k NA Miata is not keeping up w/ an RB Turbo'd 1..
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12-21-2012, 07:48 PM | #53 |
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^ and you'd be wrong. My Miata is perfectly street legal, and I drive it to and from the track. AND I have a DD 135i that I'm not worried about blowing up or balling up on the track...
And if you give me $15k to build a Miata, I'll build one that can hang with a 1M all day, let alone a 135i. And while it may be an old argument, it was in response to the OP's question about making a track car out of an 135i. Can a 135i do fine for an occasional HPDE event? Sure it can. But I assume a "track car" is something more dedicated and comes with a driver that is more advanced than a semi-annual HPDE visit... Last edited by mbintx; 12-21-2012 at 07:54 PM.. |
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12-21-2012, 09:00 PM | #54 | |
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For 20k you can buy a used open wheel race car that would beat both cars by a mile. Not sure that it merits inclusion just based on it being faster around a track and cheaper. It may be your amazing driving skills that makes your Miata so fast, but where I race there isn't one out of the hundreds of Miata's including race prepped cars that turn faster lap times than my slightly modified 135 on street tires. As for the e46's I demolish them. E92's if driven by a good driver compete with me, but just barely. I'd argue that the e36 is a better chassis to turn into a track car. But then again the op asked e46/135. |
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12-21-2012, 09:20 PM | #55 | |
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12-21-2012, 10:14 PM | #58 | ||
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12-23-2012, 08:50 AM | #59 | |
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12-23-2012, 09:56 AM | #60 |
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03-19-2013, 06:39 PM | #61 | |
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03-20-2013, 06:53 PM | #62 |
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I ended up getting the Dinan one, but solely because I wanted to keep the factory warranty intact. It does work really well though, but it cost a bunch of money($1400 minus 15% if you buy in March or October I think). I'm pretty sure there are other less expensive options with similar results.
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07-12-2013, 04:26 PM | #63 |
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Only going to revive an old thread because I'm sure it will come up in searches a lot.
My search has shown the 135i to be the best double-duty option on the market. I had a hell of a time finding any E46 M3 that hadn't already been abused by some third or fourth owner with too much cash and not enough brains. E36 M3s are even harder to find, and neither of those cars comes with the modern comforts that the 1er does. I was disappointed to find the 1st generation (06-08) Cayman S had serious engine concerns on track and didn't want to deal with that. The 09+ are still $50K+ which was over my budget. I think if you go into HPDEs with the expectation that you have a rocket of a car that simply is not engineered to corner like a 2,200 lbs Miata or Lotus, you'll have a blast. If you think you're going to have the fastest straight line and cornering car on the track, you are going to need a massive budget. |
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07-12-2013, 06:11 PM | #64 | |
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07-12-2013, 06:48 PM | #65 | |
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I have a friend who runs a solid 1:53 in his Miata at Sears Point. It's a well built car but it's only mildly faster than a Spec Miata and doesn't have forced induction. I imagine you've run there. If so, what is your best time? This would give us all a good understanding of how hard you drive your 135. This is important information as if you don't drive it hard enough to limp and continually have sessions and track days cut short then a lot of what you're saying is invalid. Or you may be able to get 2 really fast laps in before having to short shift and come in. You may have some secret where you can drive it very fast with limited mods for full sessions full days without having the N54/55 gremlins rear their heads. If so, you should share that information as few people have been able to drive their 135/335's hard without significant reliability modifications. I speak from experience coming from an E92 335. |
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07-13-2013, 02:10 PM | #66 | |
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Contrary to other peoples experiences with limp mode I don't have that happen very often. The times I did have it happen it was due to the BMS intake I had on the car. I removed it and haven't had an issue since. I ran two days at Thunderhill two weeks ago with day time temps at 110 degrees without having limp mode raise its head. I do have a FMIC and oil coolers so those help tremendously. For comparison in the open group at Thunderhill Spec Miatas run in the 2:11-2:14 range. My 135 will run 2:08 lap after lap without limp mode, brake fade, etc.. The key might be that I only have a slight tune on the motor, guys with other tunes seem to have a lot more issues. Just a thought I'm not sure though. I run in the open group and I have a bit of experience so that definitely helps keep my times down, but I'm not a pro. If you learn where to push and what the car is doing underneath you, fast times are readily available in a 1 series. Brakes, cooling, tires, and suspension all need to be addressed in order to be fast. For the money I've spent I could have made another car even faster, but the 1 series does double duty pretty well and this is still a car my wife drives to work every now and then so it can't be a total track rat. Last edited by blutattoo; 07-13-2013 at 02:15 PM.. |
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