Air intake, which way to go

[Kurjanda]

Originally Posted by Iron Man

Well I guess you can have your reasons and I will have mine. Whether you find my reasoning valid or not makes no difference to me.

I hear ya. I'm not here to change your mind, just to help others who may be reading as well, such as OP.

When you go to replace your filter in the stock air box, you need to pull the entire box. The euro box lets you get away with an over the top filter change by unscrewing the lid. But, from experience, it's not as simple as that. (Might I add - there's MORE screws undo over stock. Usually I'd pass this info up but since we're on the topic of 'ease of use'....)

Couple things, I've had issues pulling out the cone filter before, and found it far easier to manage when the entire box is pulled. Also, twigs, leaves, and other random particles will always find their way into any air box. IMO the only way to properly clean and maintain these air box's is by taking the extra time and couple steps to ensure it's properly cleaned, by pulling them out. Both would subsequently take 10-15 minute to clean or replace.

Issues concerning the MAF and particles entering the intake manifold could easily be solved with a little caution, or common sense.

Having said that, I actually don't fully endorse this mod alone. You need to couple it to at least an exhaust to get your money's worth. Mines in tandem with a DISA manifold and PE, and symphonies can't even match the aural enjoyment I have in this car. Performance? Mid range is up, and the car pulls like a champ at highway speeds. The gains in sound and performance are there, just don't expect the HP numbers some vendors and users claim.

Lastly, there's definitely a degree off dissonance for intakes on this board - and I agree with most. But if your looking for something with actual sound and performance gain - this is it. Actually, it's the end of the line, besides opting to spend somewhere around $800 and receiving a carbon top. There's really nothing else that gives you all of that, plus reliability.

Hope this helps a little Iron Man, and if your still going to buy it only for ease of maintenance, I at least take comfort knowing the extra pull around 3.5k and sound above 4.5k will leave you pleasantly surprised!

Sorry if very to the point, but I'm typing this on my phone. Happy modding everyone

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by Kurjanda

I hear ya. I'm not here to change your mind, just to help others who may be reading as well, such as OP.

When you go to replace your filter in the stock air box, you need to pull the entire box. The euro box lets you get away with an over the top filter change by unscrewing the lid. But, from experience, it's not as simple as that. (Might I add - there's MORE screws undo over stock. Usually I'd pass this info up but since we're on the topic of 'ease of use'....)

Couple things, I've had issues pulling out the cone filter before, and found it far easier to manage when the entire box is pulled. Also, twigs, leaves, and other random particles will always find their way into any air box. IMO the only way to properly clean and maintain these air box's is by taking the extra time and couple steps to ensure it's properly cleaned, by pulling them out. Both would subsequently take 10-15 minute to clean or replace.

Issues concerning the MAF and particles entering the intake manifold could easily be solved with a little caution, or common sense.

Having said that, I actually don't fully endorse this mod alone. You need to couple it to at least an exhaust to get your money's worth. Mines in tandem with a DISA manifold and PE, and symphonies can't even match the aural enjoyment I have in this car. Performance? Mid range is up, and the car pulls like a champ at highway speeds. The gains in sound and performance are there, just don't expect the HP numbers some vendors and users claim.

Lastly, there's definitely a degree off dissonance for intakes on this board - and I agree with most. But if your looking for something with actual sound and performance gain - this is it. Actually, it's the end of the line, besides opting to spend somewhere around $800 and receiving a carbon top. There's really nothing else that gives you all of that, plus reliability.

Hope this helps a little Iron Man, and if your still going to buy it only for ease of maintenance, I at least take comfort knowing the extra pull around 3.5k and sound above 4.5k will leave you pleasantly surprised!

Sorry if very to the point, but I'm typing this on my phone. Happy modding everyone

Thanks for the feedback about the box Kurjanda. I'm under no delusions about any power gain from an intake, so if I were to put one in, the only gain I see is when changing the filter (and I like the looks better). I still would rather pop the top, then pull the box.

I don't really plan on any big engine mods for quite awhile. Eventually I will do the DISA, but probably not for another 1-2 years, but when I do, I think it would also perform better then the stock box.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Iron Man

Thanks for the feedback about the box Kurjanda. I'm under no delusions about any power gain from an intake, so if I were to put one in, the only gain I see is when changing the filter (and I like the looks better). I still would rather pop the top, then pull the box.

I don't really plan on any big engine mods for quite awhile. Eventually I will do the DISA, but probably not for another 1-2 years, but when I do, I think it would also perform better then the stock box.

Do the DISA now, its a cheap factory part. Why wait?

[pj.rodriguez]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Do the DISA now, its a cheap factory part. Why wait?

DISA itself is cheap, but with the necessary tune it's no longer cheap. lol. I have no issues for $400 for the DISA, but the extra $700 tune and labor...

[Dafttt]

Originally Posted by pj.rodriguez

DISA itself is cheap, but with the necessary tune it's no longer cheap. lol. I have no issues for $400 for the DISA, but the extra $700 tune and labor...

Running on DISA w/ no tune for months, no regrets so far. Your stock ECU will do it's best to adapt, and will smooth the RPM dips over time - to an extent. A tune will polish off the RPM band like fine sand paper, but you could always add that on later.


Go for it!

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Do the DISA now, its a cheap factory part. Why wait?

As noted by others, the DISA itself is not that expensive, but the required tune more than doubles the price. Also, my viewpoint on modding is not shared by my wife (who thinks I already spend too much time and money on my car).

Finally, my first mod will most likely be wheels/tires and I don't want to install the DISA without the tune, so to do both engines mods together, I am okay with waiting.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by pj.rodriguez

DISA itself is cheap, but with the necessary tune it's no longer cheap. lol. I have no issues for $400 for the DISA, but the extra $700 tune and labor...

Originally Posted by Iron Man

As noted by others, the DISA itself is not that expensive, but the required tune more than doubles the price. Also, my viewpoint on modding is not shared by my wife (who thinks I already spend too much time and money on my car).

Finally, my first mod will most likely be wheels/tires and I don't want to install the DISA without the tune, so to do both engines mods together, I am okay with waiting.

It is still the most horsepower per dollar by a long shot. So the initial investment might be a little bit, but it is certainly more effective than being nickle and dime'd by intakes and exhausts for the same total amount of dollars. Hence why I started with the big mods before moving onto the little things like stripes and CF diffusers.

[pj.rodriguez]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

It is still the most horsepower per dollar by a long shot. So the initial investment might be a little bit, but it is certainly more effective than being nickle and dime'd by intakes and exhausts for the same total amount of dollars. Hence why I started with the big mods before moving onto the little things like stripes and CF diffusers.

That is true. The St|g is an all-knowing car guru. Or just a smart modder haha. I'll take your advice. But I'll wait for serious modding when I get a 6MT 128 coupe. I drive an auto 128 vert!

[Pothole]

About the air intakes:

I found it a nice video. Although the bearded guy shouts a little.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Pothole

About the air intakes:

I found it a nice video. Although the bearded guy shouts a little.

No surprises there. Nice find.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

It is still the most horsepower per dollar by a long shot. So the initial investment might be a little bit, but it is certainly more effective than being nickle and dime'd by intakes and exhausts for the same total amount of dollars. Hence why I started with the big mods before moving onto the little things like stripes and CF diffusers.

I would agree 100%. I really have no plans for modding my exhaust (and on the fence for the Eurobox). My plan right now is lightweight wheels/non-runflat tires, then the DISA/tune. After that probably look to the suspension, I would be interested in your review of your new suspension kit, or I might just go with Koni Yellows/Swift springs.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Iron Man

I would agree 100%. I really have no plans for modding my exhaust (and on the fence for the Eurobox). My plan right now is lightweight wheels/non-runflat tires, then the DISA/tune. After that probably look to the suspension, I would be interested in your review of your new suspension kit, or I might just go with Koni Yellows/Swift springs.

Solid plan. For the record, I didn't peg you as a frivolous modder, engineers rarely are.

I'll get my suspension review up as soon as I get my car back from the bodywork shop and I get more seat time. Initial thoughts would be that every aspect of the car is improved. Flat through the turns, much more supple over the bumps, and much quicker to recover from road inputs(next to no pogo sticking). This is with everything on full soft too, I haven't had the chance to turn it up a click or two as TCK recommends for street use.

The previous owner had no idea what he was doing and had it set up slammed and on full firm.