ST XTA Coilovers

[sr2223]

Is anyone running these coilovers and can share their experiences? I understand they are similar to KW V2? I'm wondering whether it's worth using these for a mainly street driven car with occasional track day or would I be better off going with the ST X coilovers or upgraded shock spring combo instead e.g Bilstein B12 kit.

[slonik]

we use xta on our 135 for trackdays.

they are excellent for their price.

xta has linear front springs, this is more expensive config, than springs on st X and you'll get adjustable top mounts with ball bearing (same as on clubsport).

[swagon]

Haven't heard bad things about XTA's. Many like them a lot from what I have read, but beware that in comparison to KW's they will rust.

[Fidiman]

I have them, it's a very good kit! You can see my review on my topic. If you want I can update it here

[Solo_M_Tech]

I have them as well. Absolutley love them! I got to drive to the KW factory in Fichtenberg to pick mine up. They even set them up for me before I installed them. They will see there first track day this saturday and the Nordschiefe! Initial impressions are good.

[sr2223]

Great to hear positive feedback, do you guys have any clearance issues with your wheels. Also where did you order your coilovers?

[mike@x-ph.com]

As mentioned above, highly rated product

[MDMA 135i]

hi,i am also interested for this coilovers, i saw that this coilovers have different part numbers for coupe and cabrio, what's differences between them? it is possible that only difference is spring ratio? cabrio probably has firmer springs because it is more heavier.

Is there any benefit buying cabrio version coils for coupe because of firmer spring rate , especially for guys with solid/m3 rsfb??

Sorry if my question is stoopid :P

i found this information for coupe

Axe front: - 945kg
Axe arriere: - 1070kg
part numb:18220839

cabrio

Axe front: - 960kg
Axe arriere: - 1115kg
part numb:18220839

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by MDMA 135i

hi,i am also interested for this coilovers, i saw that this coilovers have different part numbers for coupe and cabrio, what's differences between them? it is possible that only difference is spring ratio? cabrio probably has firmer springs because it is more heavier.

Is there any benefit buying cabrio version coils for coupe because of firmer spring rate , especially for guys with solid/m3 rsfb??

Sorry if my question is stoopid :P

i found this information for coupe

Axe front: - 945kg
Axe arriere: - 1070kg
part numb:18220839

cabrio

Axe front: - 960kg
Axe arriere: - 1115kg
part numb:18220839

The rates are stiffer to account for the heavier weight and reduced rigidity. Otherwise, identical.

As you can see though, it's a fairly modest change in spring rate. Nothing radical.

[EM58NDS 135i]

I have the XA, not XTA version, but i am also very happy so far. Been on the car about 8 months, no issues.

[Fidiman]

For the front part of the kit, you will have the same rates as a KW Clubsport Rear is a bit lighter than a v3 !

[houtan]

Originally Posted by sr2223

Great to hear positive feedback, do you guys have any clearance issues with your wheels.

+1. Would like to hear about clearance issues up front, especially with 8.5 inch 45 offset.

[slonik]

with a good grip (we have a lot more then stock - 275 275 f/r) springs are softly. but it's not a problem, cause on xta you can change springs easily.

[sr2223]

Interested if anyone has any clearance issues up front with VMR 710 +45 offset?

[hokejka]

Originally Posted by sr2223

Interested if anyone has any clearance issues up front with VMR 710 +45 offset?

bump. clearance issues?

[pepper135I]

Triple bump? I've asked a few times as well. Lol

[annalisa_ferri]

I recently installed them on my E82, replacing the Bilstein B16 I had.

Overall, they are very good coilovers, I would say perfect for a mixed use street-track. The adjustable camber plates really represent a plus over the competitors, they are quality stuff, the range of adjustment is more than sufficient for this use; no noise at all for the time being. Another good thing is the reduced diameter of the front springs, which helps in reducing clearance issues with the front tyres.

I came from Bilstein B16, which I think are a bit superior in terms of materials (Bilstein are coated, ST are just galvanised; all rings are Aluminum on Bilstein, polymeric on ST), but the ride quality is the same in my experience, and the ST benefit of the GREAT assistance of KW: any component of ST can be ordered as spare at KW, therefore it is possible to overhaul them or to replace broken or aged parts without too many headaches. With Bilstein this turns into a nightmare: one of my fronts had a leak, and there was no way to order spares from the factory; actually, it was not even possible to buy a single front shock, they sell them only in pairs and at a cost which is double the price you can find over the internet. That's not acceptable for such a good product, in my view.

Finally, a couple of notes about install and use for the STs:

1) ST are adjusted from the top via a small allen key (provided in the package); unfortunately the OEM BMW strut braces prevent access to the top of the coilover:



This is a serious issue as you cannot change your damping settings on the fly (e.g., at the track). I resolved this by switching from the oem braces to the 1M braces, there are several threads on this forum on how to do this mod (which is relatively cheap); with the 1M dome rings, you'll have free access to the top of your strut (in the following picture the coilovers are probably not ST, but they are really similar and you can understand what is the benefit):



Please consider this factor also if you have or are planning to mount any strut brace connecting the two domes: I don't think there are many around for the 1M (anyway, I consider the factory 1M braces stiff enough, my experience with the old setup, B16+transversal strut brace was too a stiff configuration with some understeer, this was evident on wet).
I have to say that bilstein were great on this, as they can be adjusted from the bottom (you just need to turn the steering end to end) with no tool:



2) You need to tighten the camber plates, which are adjustable, using reference marks:



this has to be done before the struts are put in place under the wheel arch; in principle, you don't know what camber angle correspond to a given mark, therefore it may be a trial and error procedure at the beginning: select a mark and hand-tighten the plate, put the strut on, lower the car and measure your front angle, until the desired angle is reached. But this is no different from other adjustable camber plates. Once you find your angle, I recommend to use thread locker fluid on the four screws holding the plate, and to absolutely tight them down using a torque wrench to the specified value - don't overdo them! The same is valid for the three screws connecting the strut to the chassis (they pop up in the engine bay once the strut is in place): stay on the bmw recommended torque!

3) The rears can be adjusted as the Bilstein - from the top. With both brands, you need to cut a small hole in the boot liner. Again, I think there is a DIY guide here on how to do it properly - not a big job but take it easy as this is a permanent mod (even if in a place which is not very visible)

[annalisa_ferri]

Also some data about clearance:

I am on bmw 319 wheels, 18", 7.5J ET45 fronts on Michelin PSS 215/40: no clearance issues (I do not use any spacer)

[pepper135I]

Originally Posted by annalisa_ferri

Also some data about clearance:

I am on bmw 319 wheels, 18", 7.5J ET45 fronts on Michelin PSS 215/40: no clearance issues (I do not use any spacer)

Thank you for the well thought out and written respond sir ! You made me feel a lot better with my decision . I currently have 261m rims(apex arc8s on order) which run the same offsets as your wheels . I was worried about rubbing with my current 225/40/18 tire, but purchased a 5mm spacer just in case.

I was mostly worried about the strut being too thick or spring helper getting in the way and causing rubbing issues . Out of curiosity what made you stick with 215 tires over upsizing too 225? Again thank you for the response and help!

(Forgot to add, I also ordered 1m strut bar so I can access camber plates)

[annalisa_ferri]

Originally Posted by pepper135I

I was worried about rubbing with my current 225/40/18 tire, but purchased a 5mm spacer just in case. I was mostly worried about the strut being too thick or spring helper getting in the way and causing rubbing issues

Take into account that the clearance depends also on the height you set: this is causing the lock ring to go up or down on the strut, that is closer or farther to your tyre wall; but here I cannot say more, all depends on your specific setup. I think that a 5mm spacer should resolve any potential issue.

Originally Posted by pepper135I

Out of curiosity what made you stick with 215 tires over upsizing too 225?

This is just a legal issue, as in the country where my car is approved I cannot go beyond 215/40 on the fronts and 245/35 on the rears on 18", and I drive it also on public roads. But I find this sufficient, any upsizing will not be that good on the front (we all want to keep understeering under control), and would make the car not that funny on the rear anymore (for the power that I have)

Originally Posted by pepper135I

Forgot to add, I also ordered 1m strut bar so I can access camber plates

I based my mod on this thread, which is very precise:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=968557

Have fun!