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[lamj01]

I now this has been discussed a lot and reading about it is like researching a book report. There's information scattered all over this great forum.

I need advice. My car will arrive at the end of August. Plan "A" was to get the insurance to cover the tires (I hear it's around $500). Sounds like a good investment since RFTs are so expensive and apparently some believe that they puncture more easily than normal tires.

I plan on using this car only for daily commuting so I do not need all the performance that a lot of people complain about that the RFTs lack. However after reading all the complaints, Plan "B" is replace the RFTs with normal tires from the start.

My question is whether replacing them is really worth it for me? Carrying around a spare tire (~30lbs) along with putting a jack in the trunk pretty much takes up the bulk of the space.

Would most of your recommend I stick with Plan "A" (and pray that the 3rd generation is better, here's the link http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...highlight=rfts) or should I go with Plan "B"? Sorry for the long email, but please offer your opinions. Thanks.

[esses]

RFT = Remove the Fucking Things.

IMO, carry a patch kit and pay the $5/mo for your insurance to cover towing; only use the spare for long trips.

The increased ride comfort and performance will be more than worth it - in the long run, real tires are cheaper.

[ORIGIN M.]

Originally Posted by lamj01

I now this has been discussed a lot and reading about it is like researching a book report. There's information scattered all over this great forum.

I need advice. My car will arrive at the end of August. Plan "A" was to get the insurance to cover the tires (I hear it's around $500). Sounds like a good investment since RFTs are so expensive and apparently some believe that they puncture more easily than normal tires.

I plan on using this car only for daily commuting so I do not need all the performance that a lot of people complain about that the RFTs lack. However after reading all the complaints, Plan "B" is replace the RFTs with normal tires from the start.

My question is whether replacing them is really worth it for me? Carrying around a spare tire (~30lbs) along with putting a jack in the trunk pretty much takes up the bulk of the space.

Would most of your recommend I stick with Plan "A" (and pray that the 3rd generation is better, here's the link http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...highlight=rfts) or should I go with Plan "B"? Sorry for the long email, but please offer your opinions. Thanks.

500 bucks no way!!!

Go to Discount tire, and buy "Road Hazard Certificates" for each tire. Cost will be maybe $25 or more per tire, and drive them until they need replacing.

Then replace them with either 3rd Gen's [because they have come along way], or buy normal tires, and simply pick up a M-Mobility kit.

DONE!


http://www.discounttire.com/north_ca...es_wheels.html


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-O...Q5fAccessories

[ORIGIN M.]

Originally Posted by esses

RFT = Remove the Fucking Things.

IMO, carry a patch kit and pay the $5/mo for your insurance to cover towing; only use the spare for long trips.

The increased ride comfort and performance will be more than worth it - in the long run, real tires are cheaper.

Dude that is completely crazy looking, and has nothing to do with the type of tire, but rather that you needed tires a long ass time ago.

Nothing short of abuse!!!

Nice try though...

[esses]

Originally Posted by red-sauerkraut

Dude that is completely crazy looking, and has nothing to do with the type of tire, but rather that you needed tires a long ass time ago.

Nothing short of abuse!!!

Nice try though...

Those are the stock RFTs after 7000 miles. PS2s do not do that after 7000 miles. Nothing short of fact. Nice assumptions though...

[cagekicker]

dude, that's call bad alignment.

[Cuz5150]

With only 198 miles on the clock.....I cant believe how BMW get away installing these Hockey pucks. Talk about upseting the suspention/steering and passes the harsh ride on.
I would get regular tires and the tire Mobility kit. I just dont have the funds ride now to pick up PS2's.

[JimD]

I thought about the tire package but I think it was quoted to me at closer to $800. Maybe they were trying to make up for the price they gave me on the car. The main reason I did not do it is I haven't had a flat on any of my cars in a long time. And the previous flats I've had were simple punctures that were easily plugged. The office manager at the BMW dealership said RFT can't be plugged but I did my own research and that is not completely true. If you drive too far or too fast on RFT after they go flat, you will ruin them. If you drive slowly a short distance, they can still be plugged just like any other tire (assuming the hole is in the tread area and the belts are not damaged). You want the tire removed from the rim and a plug with a mushroom shape or an integral patch installed. That precludes the "do-it-yourself-by-the-side-of-the-road" option. Sliming tires - squirting in sealer - also eliminates installing a plug so I do not do it. I may carry a 12V compressor for slow leaks.

My bottom line is I am just going to run the RFTs. I do not think the ride is too harsh and some of that is the Sports Suspension and low profile tires. When they need replaced, I will probably use RFTs again. The ability to go 50-100 miles after they go flat is another form of insurance and safety. After the BMW warranty is up, I may add AAA and/or carry a jack and compressor but while the warranty is in effect, BMW will help. Fortunately, flat tires have been rare for me. And you can nearly buy three for what I was quoted for the insurance (but probably more like 2 at emergency, no chance to shop around prices).

Jim

[m_thompson]

Originally Posted by lamj01

I need advice. My car will arrive at the end of August. Plan "A" was to get the insurance to cover the tires (I hear it's around $500). Sounds like a good investment since RFTs are so expensive and apparently some believe that they puncture more easily than normal tires.

We got tire/wheel insurance from an AAA competitor for $27/year. We got a nail in a tire, the BMW dealer would not fix it and replaced it for almost $300, the insurance company covered the tire cost and then canceled the policy.

Many people have reported wheel damage along with RFT tire damage. I got a 5 year tire/wheel policy for about $500 when I paid for our new M-Sport 128i.

[JB135i]

Originally Posted by lamj01

I plan on using this car only for daily commuting so I do not need all the performance that a lot of people complain about that the RFTs lack.

Don't mean to bust your balls, but this part of your question leads me to ask this: why did you get (order) a 135i then? If commuting is your only goal, then certainly a 128i or any number of other good and reliable cars are out there for FAR less cash.

Just asking, again I mean no disrespect....

To answer your question though. Insurance is all about odds, any kind of insurance. If you get a flat, or two, that $500.00 will seem like the best money you ever spent, if you never get a flat it's a rip off. I vote rip off, flats just don't happen all that often, but only you can decide. Like others have said too, there are other options.

Good luck,

[jeremyc74]

$500 is CRAZY for tire coverage.

The fact of the matter is, the RFTs are expensive, harsh, under performing, and wear abnormally fast for the level of performance they deliever. There is zero upside to having these tires on the car that I can think of, except for the fact that we don't have a spare.

Mine were completely shot after 12k miles, and that's with a considerable amount of highway driving (probably more than half of it was done on road trips), which should extend the life of a tire.

Personally, I've got a plug kit and a small compressor in the trunk, and with the TPMS I don't think twice about having a flat on a road trip. It's still possible, but so unlikely it's not worth thinking about.

I'll never have RFTs on the car again, and I certainly wouldn't pay $500 to insure them. Leave the money in the bank and use it for the replacement set you're going to need around 10k miles.

[Excitmnt94]

Originally Posted by cagekicker

dude, that's called bad alignment.

+1,000,000

the Bridgestone RE050A RFT's on my Zed lasted at least 18,000 miles and still had tread depth left upon turn in...approx 5/32.

[Haywood]

Originally Posted by jeremyc74

$500 is CRAZY for tire coverage.

The fact of the matter is, the RFTs are expensive, harsh, under performing, and wear abnormally fast for the level of performance they deliever. There is zero upside to having these tires on the car that I can think of, except for the fact that we don't have a spare.

Mine were completely shot after 12k miles, and that's with a considerable amount of highway driving (probably more than half of it was done on road trips), which should extend the life of a tire.

Personally, I've got a plug kit and a small compressor in the trunk, and with the TPMS I don't think twice about having a flat on a road trip. It's still possible, but so unlikely it's not worth thinking about.

I'll never have RFTs on the car again, and I certainly wouldn't pay $500 to insure them. Leave the money in the bank and use it for the replacement set you're going to need around 10k miles.

What tires did you end up going with?

[Tom K.]

Originally Posted by Excitmnt94

+1,000,000
the Bridgestone RE050A RFT's on my Zed lasted at least 18,000 miles and still had tread depth left upon turn in...approx 5/32.

I rotated the 050A tires once (non staggered sizes) on my '03 Z4 and got 29,000 (mostly highway) miles out of them with 3/32" left. While the replacement Eagle GS-D3 (non RFT) were cheaper, they neither handled nor rode much better than the RFTs.

The Goodyear NCT5 RFTs on my 128i will last about 27,000 rear and double that for the front.

Unless the money's really burning a hole in your pocket, why not just run them 'til they wear out and then replace with whatever suits you?
Tom

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by Haywood

What tires did you end up going with?

I've got a set of Falken all-seasons on it right now. I don't remember the model. I bought them last fall to get me through the winter. They're not much better than the run-flats as far as traction goes, but they're in much better shape after 15k miles than the factory tires were after 7k. I'm guessing I can easily get another 5-7k out of them, maybe more.

Right now I'm having a debate with myself about buying snow tires, and a set of summers, or buying summers and a beater, or just looking for excuses to use a company vehicle every time it snows.

[lamj01]

Originally Posted by JB135i

Don't mean to bust your balls, but this part of your question leads me to ask this: why did you get (order) a 135i then? If commuting is your only goal, then certainly a 128i or any number of other good and reliable cars are out there for FAR less cash.

Just asking, again I mean no disrespect....

To answer your question though. Insurance is all about odds, any kind of insurance. If you get a flat, or two, that $500.00 will seem like the best money you ever spent, if you never get a flat it's a rip off. I vote rip off, flats just don't happen all that often, but only you can decide. Like others have said too, there are other options.

Good luck,

Thanks for all the responses everyone. No disrespect taken but to answer your question JB135i, the reason is that as soon as I sat in the 135i and drove it, I simply had to have THAT engine. I wanted the option of having a great performance engine and be able to one day take full advantage of it. I have always been a car enthusiast and love performance cars.

Based on the responses, I think I may just keep the RFTs, skip the tire insurance from BMW and if I get my first flat and the entire wheel needs to be replaced, then I'll replace all four tires with regular ones (since it would not cost much more to do this). Seems reasonable no?

Also, to place regular wheels on the 2009 models does not require new rims correct? You can just place the regular tires directly with the current rims on the 135i right?

[ORIGIN M.]

Originally Posted by cagekicker

dude, that's call bad alignment.

BINGO!

I knew I was not seeing things incorrectly, and the FACT they were driven as far as they were, is a oversight on safety big time.

Originally Posted by asses

Those are the stock RFTs after 7000 miles. PS2s do not do that after 7000 miles. Nothing short of fact. Nice assumptions though...

Safety means the world to me, and a question of safety should never be an option, regardless of the miles, etc...!

[esses]

Bad alignment? Are you kidding? Have you guys never owned a sports car before??

That is called rear camber. RFTs cannot be rotated. That is how they wear.

On THAT particular tire, the inner sidewall came off in a single strip. According to Bridgestone (you know, the company that made the tire) it was a manufacturing defect. Bridgestone took the tire and refunded me for the cost of 2 replacement tires (the ps2s).

I think I'll go ahead and trust Bridgestone over the armchair QBs here.

Originally Posted by red-sauerkraut

Safety means the world to me, and a question of safety should never be an option, regardless of the miles, etc...!

Performance = safety. RFTs are in no way safer than regular tires. That comment just makes no sense.

Weird thread. More misinformation than information.

Originally Posted by lamj01

I think I may just keep the RFTs, skip the tire insurance from BMW and if I get my first flat and the entire wheel needs to be replaced, then I'll replace all four tires with regular ones (since it would not cost much more to do this). Seems reasonable no?

Yep, exactly what I did. For me - replacements came quick, and were much cheaper.

[Tom K.]

Originally Posted by lamj01

You can just place the regular tires directly with the current rims on the 135i right?

Yes. And it's a good idea to throw a 12 volt compressor and plug kit in the trunk to ward off flats.

Tom

[gyrfalcon]

Originally Posted by esses

Bad alignment? Are you kidding? Have you guys never owned a sports car before??

That is called rear camber. RFTs cannot be rotated. That is how they wear.

On THAT particular tire, the inner sidewall came off in a single strip. According to Bridgestone (you know, the company that made the tire) it was a manufacturing defect. Bridgestone took the tire and refunded me for the cost of 2 replacement tires (the ps2s).

Yep, exactly what I did. For me - replacements came quick, and were much cheaper.

I would only say that was rear camber if you had modified your suspension settings. Normal RFT wear is nowhere near that extreme on a stock 135i. RFTs can be rotated just like any other tire to even out wear, although obviously you can only go left to right or vice versa due to the staggered sizing. I don't think it's really necessary though especially since you are just prolonging the time when you could have swapped for better tires. I have nearly 12,000 miles on my 135 with 5+ autocrosses on the stock RFTs and I still have 4/32 tread depth left easy. To get that kind of wear with a stock 135i they must have had some manufacturing defect as Bridgestone claims. Glad you upgraded to some nice tires.

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by esses

Bad alignment? Are you kidding? Have you guys never owned a sports car before??

That is called rear camber. RFTs cannot be rotated. That is how they wear.



.

You're full of shit. I wore my rear tires until they were nearly bald, and they didn't look ANYTHING like that.

And I've owned plenty of sports cars, and if they're wearing tires like what you pictured, there's something wrong with them. It's most certainly not "how they wear".

[sparoz]

non-RFT = better active safety - more grip, less unsprung etc etc...

RFT = better passive safety - when there's a tire blow out - you just keep driving.

From the sound of things, I think you should just keep the runflats. They are repairable, as long as you haven't driven it for too long - just that Bridgestone doesn't suppose to allow it.

May be get the M kit anyway - most punctures will make the car loose pressure relatively slowly anyway. - goo it, and pump it to the right pressure, you might be able to save your runflat for repair.