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| 04-09-2021, 01:05 AM | #1 |
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Private
 
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Rep 53
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DIY Transmission Output Shaft Seal.
After several weeks of monitoring and recent PPI, I found that I had slow leak on my Transmission Output Shaft Seal. I also had a leak at Rear Diff Pinion Seal, which I will tackle at later time. This DIY is for me to document my procedure and not necessarily the step by step tutorial. Please do your own homework, work at your own risk, and use this as reference only. If you guys find any mistake or better way to do it please mention it.
1. Remove the exhaust from down pipe all the way to resonator. 2. Remove the rear sub frame brace. 3. Remove the heat shield from the chassis. 4. At this point you should see the bolts that connect the Guibo to the Transmission Output Flange. 5. Loosen the 3 bolts. Before you remove it though, make sure you mark each bolt in one plane to the Output Shaft Flange. This to make sure that you have the same orientation to avoid any vibration. I bought new bolts and nuts. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...s3-26117527475 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ut-26127536563 6. At this point you want to be able to rotate the drive shaft to get access to the all 3 bolts. In order to rotate the driveshaft, you need to unlock the parking shifter. I chose to do this from underneath the car by doing this step. I removed the bolts but didn't slide the drive shaft out just yet. 6. I went ahead to remove the drive shaft as well, because I was going to attempt to replace the Rear Pinion Seal, but later found out that I couldn't remove the Pinion Nut. 7. To remove the Drive Shaft, you need to loosen the Insert Nut CW. This was super tough. I ended up heating the nut with heat gun before I was able to loosen it. You need to replace this nut after removal since the thread locker is build in the nut threads. I bought this set which has all the necessary tools to remove the Insert nut and the pinion seal. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 8. Once the insert nut is completely off the drive shaft, I proceed to remove the Center Support bearing bolts and support the entire driveshaft assy with Transmission jack. 9. Slide the Drive shaft out of the Transmission Output Flange. 10. Slide the Drive shaft out of the Rear Diff Pinion shaft. 11. Now you can see the Transmission Output Shaft Flange. 12. The Flange is press fit to the spline and you would need to brace the flange to remove the nut. This Giant nut (36mm) is Loctited so a little heat gun persuasion was necessary. 13. I marked the nut final orientation to the shaft just to double check that I get the torque spec correctly. 14. Other folks choose remove transmission mount to get better access to the flange to brace it, I decided to not remove the transmission mount and made a giant spacer that bolt up to the flange to brace it while removing the nut. 15. Even with heat applied to the nut, this thing was on there tight. I didn't want to use impact. 16. After a couple more heat cycle it finally came loose. I marked the the flange to the spline in one plane so I can put it back in the same orientation. I don't think you need to do this, but I'd just do it for ease of mind. 17. Pay attention to how flush the flange surface to the spline end. This will be your reference of the final engagement of the press fit between the flange and the drive spline. 18. You need a 3 jaw puller or similar device to get this flange off the drive spline. 19. You will hear it pop once the press fit was released. 20. Its time to remove the seal victim. Before I remove the seal, I'd measure the depth of the seal with respect to the housing. The TIS didn't mention this other than drive the seal till it hits a hard stop. To do this, I used a depth gage to measure how deep the seal is seated with respect to the housing edge. You can also visually see how the chamfer edge of the housing is almost flush with the edge of the seal front edge. My depth gage measured at .018" 21. To remove the seal, I opted to modify the smaller 3 jaw puller from the set I bought from the Harbor Freight, instead of using conventional pry bar style seal removal tool. I just didn't want to risk any damage to the housing at all. 21. Clean the mating surface with clean paper towel. Its time to put the new seal in.
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1997 Artic Silver E36 M3/4/5
2000 Sunlit Sand Nissan Maxima 5 SP 2011 Space Gray E82 N55 DCT. Last edited by Genes1s; 04-25-2021 at 09:42 PM.. |
| 04-09-2021, 01:37 AM | #2 |
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Private
32
Rep 53
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22. To put the new seal in.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/28107842388/ I opted to use a spacer that I built using 3d printer and the spacer is being driven by the giant nut. This way I have equal axial pressure to drive the seal in nicely. Once you get close to mating surface, slow down and make sure you that seal is seated properly by either measuring that gap or visually by making sure that the seal front edge is at the chamfer edge of the housing. I measured mine and it was .020". A couple thou off but oh well, should be OK. Take a beer or two, your half way done! 23. Now its time to put the flange back in. To seat the flange to the drive spline correctly, you would need to torque this down to 175NM. This would make sure that the Flange is seated properly. Remember the mark I did in the beginning, this is also a confirmation that the two interface are mated properly. When I torqued the nut to 175Nm, it was right where I marked it in the beginning. Picture below shows that the Flange IS NOT seated properly yet. 24. Once you flange is seated properly, release the nut and clean the threads with acetone or brake cleaner. DO not spray all over, just focus on the area being cleaned. Make sure it is squeaky clean then apply Red Loctite 271 (TIS mentioned medium 243) and torque it to 125NM. Wait for 24 hours for the Loctite to fully cured. 25.Re install the drive shaft Guibo to the flange. Remember the orientation that we marked in the beginning. Torque the bolt to 55 Nm and 90 degree. 26. Don't forget to re-attach your parking shift lever. 27. Grease the drive shaft spline that connects to the Rear Diff Pinion spline. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...0g-83190447919 28. Re install the NEW insert nut to attach the driveshaft to the Rear Diff. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x6-26117567770 You got 5 minutes to do this per TIS. 28. Re install your center support bearing bracket and torque it to 21Nm. 29. Re install your heat shield and exhaust and you are done. These are "special tools" that I created for this job. You might be able to get it done without it but whatever.
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1997 Artic Silver E36 M3/4/5
2000 Sunlit Sand Nissan Maxima 5 SP 2011 Space Gray E82 N55 DCT. Last edited by Genes1s; 04-25-2021 at 09:39 PM.. |
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