Can someone explain please

[Kosta135i]

Like title says. What does this light mean

[eric@helix]

Brake fluid low would be my guess.

[Kgolf31]

Brake Fluid Interval Change.

[Kosta135i]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Brake Fluid Interval Change.

Thanks for the reply. Any idea what that would cost since I'm out of warranty

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by Kiz725

Thanks for the reply. Any idea what that would cost since I'm out of warranty

Probably an hour of labor + supply. So most likely around $100. Any Indy shop can perform though.

[granracing]

Do you want to try it yourself? Hardest part is putting the car on jack stands and taking wheels off.

[Kosta135i]

Originally Posted by granracing

Do you want to try it yourself? Hardest part is putting the car on jack stands and taking wheels off.

I would but I don't consider myself too mechanically inclined. Lol

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by Kiz725

I would but I don't consider myself too mechanically inclined. Lol

If you're in Fairfield and don't mind taking a trip to Northern NJ, shoot me a PM. I can suggest a few shops that can bang this out for you.

[bdoooh]

I was always intimidated by anything brake related. Believe me it's the easiest thing in the world to change out the brake fluid.

[RideThePigGir]

Originally Posted by bdoooh

I was always intimidated by anything brake related. Believe me it's the easiest thing in the world to change out the brake fluid.

Especially if you have a friend to help bleed them, but that's not even a requisite (AFAIK, it could be different on these brakes).

[bdoooh]

Originally Posted by RideThePigGir

Especially if you have a friend to help bleed them, but that's not even a requisite (AFAIK, it could be different on these brakes).

Yeah definitely easy with a friend pumping the brakes. If not, there are kits that will do it for you. But BMW has made the bleeder nipple extremely easily accessible, super easy to attach a hose it and pump and fill.

Just remember to start in the passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front, then driver front.

[pj.rodriguez]

If you do it yourself, a brake bleeder is about $60 then the fluid about $20-30. Then you'll have the bleeder forever and you can do brake fluid yourself for a lot less than what it would cost at other places. Really simple process. There is a DIY on here

[JimD]

You want the bleeder that presurizes the master cylinder fluid tank, not the one that tries to suck fluid through the bleeder valve. I bought one for my son and used it once myself. It attaches just like the cap. I didn't fill the bleeder with fluid, I just topped off the tank after each wheel. You have to remove the wheels to get good access to the bleeder valve and then it is just pressurize, and open the valve and let a decent amount flow out. You can use a different color or just guess when enough has moved. Then it's close the valve and move to the next wheel.

With two people, one person pumps the brakes to take the place of the pressure bleeder. Works fine if you stay in synch. You have the valve open as they move down but closed when they go up.

I've had bleeder valves break off before but the ones in my bimmer opened and closed fine.

[Kosta135i]

Thanks for all the input! Can someone link a DIY , maybe I'll tackle it once the weather clears up a bit here in ct

[box_man]

Just watched this, seems fairly simple to do.

[Converted1]

Use different color fluid than what's in there and make sure you use a clear hose and catch bottle. Take you time and enjoy the process.

[granracing]

Where in CT are you? I'm in Newington.

The hardest part about it is putting the car up on jack stands and taking the wheels off. I personally am not a big fan of the power bleeders and just ask a friend or my wife to help. Their part does't take long.

The order for bleeding is:

Right Rear Caliper
Left Rear Caliper
Right Front Caliper
Left Front Caliper

Doing it in the order will help minimize the risk of air getting into the system. You'll put a wrench on the brake bleeder screw then attach the hose. Have someone inside the car put pressure on the brake. Open the screw and watch fluid go into the tube. Have the person keep their foot to the floor.

You close the screw. Have them release the pedal. Have the put pressure on it, open the screw, foot to the floor, close screw. You can have the person give the brake pedal a few presses inbetween when it's been released and you want them to push down so the bleeder can be opened.

Since you want to flush the fluid, for the first wheel after fluid is in the container and the tubes bottom in fluid, I have the person just pump the pedel a bit to get fluild lower in the reservoir, then add more to it.

Keep an eye on the brake reservoir and ensure it's kept full of brake fluid. If you let it run too low, air will get into the system. If that happens, you'll just need to do a lot more bleeding to get it out.

Using two colored brake fluid makes it easier, but currently the different fluids are banned (at least super blue). Too many people have confused the fluids due to the color. Grrrr! I still like using ATE brake fluid.

Here's the simple set-up (from a Honda I owned but same concept):



Another solution is to use approximately a 12” long plastic hose, piece of wire, and an empty 12 or 16 ounce plastic bottle. At one end of the wire, bend a loop large enough to fit over the brake bleeder valve. This is done so the unit can hang from the bleeder valve by itself. On the other end of the wire, wrap it around the top of the bottle, beneath where the cap would screw on. Once the assembled unit is hanging from the bleeder valve, put the correct size wrench on the bleeder screw. The next step is to insert the plastic tube over the bleeder valve and put the other side of the tube inside the plastic bottle. Now you are ready to begin bleeding the brakes. True, if you follow my lead, you will need an assistant to pump the brakes, but the tool will cost you less than $10.

Or you can get something a bit more fancy.

http://www.ogracing.com/motive-power...r-catch-bottle