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05-06-2011, 08:55 AM | #1 |
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1M Breakin Period info from owner's manual (>1200 miles and 1200-3000 miles)
I had some questions regarding the 'recommended' break-in period for the 1M.
I was raised on Hondas, Acuras and Toyotas in which I have floored it from the get go, pushing it to the redline from the very beginning, no mercy, and they still go for 200,000 + miles without any major repairs (regular 5k mile services of course)....So I am sure this topic has been discussed but I'd like some more info on it regarding the 1M. Also, I have read something about an initial recommended oil change after the first 1500 miles on the 1M - is this a worthwhile endeavor? Are BMW's that sensitive to where if you don't do a proper break-in period, you will experience problems?? Has anyone had first hand experience with this? Lastly, in the supposed break-in period, does it mean that we just shouldn't put full throttle to 7500 RPM, but rather soft launch the car to the the higher speeds?? And for how many miles must we break the car in??? Thanks UPDATED WITH SCAN FROM 1M OWNER'S MANUAL (from BimmerMatt135) |
05-06-2011, 09:34 AM | #2 |
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Here is what it says in a non M BMW Manual:
Always obey the official speed limits. Up to approx. 1,200 miles/2,000 km Drive at varying engine and road speeds but do not exceed 4,500 rpm or 100 mph/160 km/h. Do not drive with full-throttle operation, and do not use the transmission's kickdown mode or Launch Control. From 1,200 miles/2,000 km the engine and vehicle speed can gradually be increased. |
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05-06-2011, 09:55 AM | #3 |
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From the 1M manual do not floor it for the first 2000km never exceed 5500rpm and do not exceed 170kmh then at 2000km you have a major service for 2000-5000km floor it for very short period of time and do not exceed 220 kmh
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05-06-2011, 09:59 AM | #4 |
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Anything about break usage / break-in during the first 2000km?
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05-06-2011, 10:12 AM | #6 |
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05-06-2011, 11:03 AM | #7 |
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In the first 50-70 miles it's a good idea to create load situations on the engine. In other words, rev the engine in any gear (depends on the road, speed limit, traffic, etc) and lift off the throttle, creating load. Allow the rpms to come down to around 1500 and then do it again several times. This seats the rings and creates pressure between the components to allow for proper bonding. There are a 1000+ opinions on "proper" break in so I don't want to open a can of worms here but this is something several engine builders have told me over the decades.
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05-06-2011, 02:31 PM | #9 |
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Yes, follow it exactly. Then when our engines are fully broken in mine will probably make more power and last just as long, if not longer. I'm not questioning what the engineers know, just the attorneys that sign off on the OM.
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05-06-2011, 02:40 PM | #10 |
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+1 Im inclined to think recommendations are influenced by more than the engineering side
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05-06-2011, 02:48 PM | #11 |
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Am I getting the message that; following the OM could be HARMFUL to my engines life down the line?
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05-06-2011, 02:50 PM | #12 | |
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Honestly, I dont think it will really make a difference one way or another but I would rather just follow the rules on my brand new $50K car. |
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05-06-2011, 02:50 PM | #13 |
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I wouldnt say that, but their recommendation is a balance of things. They arent interested in breaking in your engine for maximum power output. For one, they warranty that thing, they dont want anything to break.
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05-06-2011, 02:55 PM | #14 | |
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I am certainly no expert and as I mentioned I am used to Japanese cars. This will be my first Bimmer and I just want to be well informed of all the consequences of usage. |
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05-06-2011, 03:04 PM | #15 |
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Also, I have close to zero experience with engine building and the proper techniques of breaking-in the engine. However, it seems to me from a first glance, that in the two major schools of thought represented here in this forum regarding the break-in period are both aiming for a common goal...to make the engine parts meld in together and become a fully functional mechanical unit. In my eyes, this would be better achieved through what the OM is saying in terms of taking it easy on the engine in the beginning. In my perception, it would make more sense to easily initiate the different functions of a newly built engine to ensure proper and smooth transitions between the various parts. As time goes on, the parts will become well "grooved" if you will.
I can see problems occurring if you 'pedal to the metal' off the lot, perhaps due to the lack of experience and mileage for your particular engine keep in mind, i have owned tons of Japanese cars and floored them off the lot for 250,000 miles....so i guess we are considering the German engineering then |
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05-06-2011, 03:09 PM | #16 |
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for the love of: argggg
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6617279 http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ngine+break-in http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ngine+break-in http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ngine+break-in http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ngine+break-in http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ngine+break-in http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ngine+break-in
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05-06-2011, 03:12 PM | #18 |
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I dont see how German versus Japanese engineering would matter.
Its about seating the rings. There are usually 2 camps... one thinks you need to seat them somewhat aggressively so they seat properly and prevent blow by. Others feel you need to baby it to not break anything, which the 1st camp suggests doesnt seat them as tightly. There are numerous articles on line about this and in every car forum I have ever been a part of. Read and decide for yourself. Those that have gone the aggressive route swear their cars repeatedly make more HP versus similar vehicles on the same day with the same dyno |
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05-06-2011, 03:15 PM | #19 |
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05-06-2011, 03:17 PM | #20 |
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-but I was intending to get 1M specific information |
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05-06-2011, 03:28 PM | #21 |
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same argument from both sides.. either you follow the manual, or you dont.. applies to anything with an engine.
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05-06-2011, 03:29 PM | #22 | |
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