Koni Yellow questions

[Oofie]

I read that the Koni Yellow shocks are adjustable. Does this mean that if paired with H&R Sport, can they ride as soft as the stock setting, or just a bit harsher? Also, are they easy to adjust, for example just the morning before a track day/autocross?

[MastaMind]

Even on the softest setting, they're still firmer than stock but not uncomfortable.

The front is easily adjustable with the provided adjustment knob. The rears need to be compressed first and then adjusted.

Honestly, the best thing you can do to reduce the "harshness" is to ditch the runflats, if you haven't already done so.

[Oofie]

Originally Posted by MastaMind

Even on the softest setting, they're still firmer than stock but not uncomfortable.

The front is easily adjustable with the provided adjustment knob. The rears need to be compressed first and then adjusted.

Honestly, the best thing you can do to reduce the "harshness" is to ditch the runflats, if you haven't already done so.

Thanks! I'm not really concerned about the harshness now (still have RFTs) but if I were to go with springs/shocks for autocross, I would want it (sometimes) to be a soft ride because it also is a DD.

[HondaGoneRogue]

I have Koni/H&R's and love them. I have f/r set on medium. Feels great to me. It's not as harsh with these + Dunlop star spec as it was with stock + RFT's

Just know that the car is raked with the H&R's. Eibach is an even drop.
Here's mine:

[Oofie]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

I have Koni/H&R's and love them. I have f/r set on medium. Feels great to me. It's not as harsh with these + Dunlop star spec as it was with stock + RFT's

Just know that the car is raked with the H&R's. Eibach is an even drop.
Here's mine:

Thanks! So it rides smoother with the Dunlop SS compared to stock+ rfts? So the car in the pic is just HR sport + Koni yellow? Drop looks good, love the rake.

By the way, are your wheels 19"?

[larryn]

Originally Posted by Oofie

Thanks! So it rides smoother with the Dunlop SS compared to stock+ rfts? So the car in the pic is just HR sport + Koni yellow? Drop looks good, love the rake.

By the way, are your wheels 19"?

Breyton GTS-R 18"

I have Koni Yellows and H&R Sports too, and with street tires they are prob equal to stock stiffness, but less jarring on irregularities. The fronts are not that easy to adjust, with the strut brace in the way.

[HondaGoneRogue]

Originally Posted by larryn

Breyton GTS-R 18"

I have Koni Yellows and H&R Sports too, and with street tires they are prob equal to stock stiffness, but less jarring on irregularities. The fronts are not that easy to adjust, with the strut brace in the way.

+1 Well said. Just curious, do you have 2 knobs? I have a short one that fits under the brace and can turn like that. While it's not cake, it's not impossible.

[aisthetes]

Originally Posted by MastaMind

The rears need to be compressed first and then adjusted

To clarify, I believe the rear shocks must be completely removed to be compressed for rebound adjustment, correct? I race with Oofie monthly, so he should be aware of what's involved in constantly adjusting the rebound before and after each autocross. For those that set the rear rebound and leave it, it's obviously not a big deal.

[jeremydgreat]

@HondaGoneRogue - Roll cage and the dual exhaust look amazing man. Your 1'er is one of the best looking ones I've seen yet.

[MastaMind]

Originally Posted by aisthetes

To clarify, I believe the rear shocks must be completely removed to be compressed for rebound adjustment, correct? I race with Oofie monthly, so he should be aware of what's involved in constantly adjusting the rebound before and after each autocross. For those that set the rear rebound and leave it, it's obviously not a big deal.

Yes, you are correct that they need to be off of the car before they can be adjusted. I would approach it as a "set it and forget it" type of deal.

I do remember reading somewhere that the Dinan rear shocks are a bit different than the standard Yellows and can be adjusted easier. It might be worth giving them a call and see what they have to say. If true, I would have gone with theirs over the standard yellows in the first place.

[HondaGoneRogue]

Originally Posted by jeremydgreat

@HondaGoneRogue - Roll cage and the dual exhaust look amazing man. Your 1'er is one of the best looking ones I've seen yet.

Thank you sir!

[HondaGoneRogue]

Originally Posted by MastaMind

Yes, you are correct that they need to be off of the car before they can be adjusted. I would approach it as a "set it and forget it" type of deal.

I do remember reading somewhere that the Dinan rear shocks are a bit different than the standard Yellows and can be adjusted easier. It might be worth giving them a call and see what they have to say. If true, I would have gone with theirs over the standard yellows in the first place.

I would say removing the trunk liner is the hardest part of getting to the rear shocks. Other than that, it's really easy to remove and adjust them. Obviously, it's not feasible to do at the track but at home it shouldn't be that big of a deal.

[MastaMind]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

I would say removing the trunk liner is the hardest part of getting to the rear shocks. Other than that, it's really easy to remove and adjust them. Obviously, it's not feasible to do at the track but at home it shouldn't be that big of a deal.

It's not a technically difficult process by any means, but I certainly wouldn't feel like doing it every weekend. Just personal preference as to what is acceptable and what isn't.

Getting the trunk liner back in was the worst freaking part for me.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by aisthetes

To clarify, I believe the rear shocks must be completely removed to be compressed for rebound adjustment, correct? I race with Oofie monthly, so he should be aware of what's involved in constantly adjusting the rebound before and after each autocross. For those that set the rear rebound and leave it, it's obviously not a big deal.

Yes, the standard adjust rear Koni Yellows need to be completely removed and compressed to perform damping adjustments, although it can be done with it in the car as well - Just loosen the bottom mount, compress and adjust.

External or top adjust 135 rear dampers are coming and should be available soon.

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

+1 Well said. Just curious, do you have 2 knobs? I have a short one that fits under the brace and can turn like that. While it's not cake, it's not impossible.

HondaGoneRogue, Nice looking car! Let's see more photos!

To aid front strut adjustment, one can remove the oem brace comletely, add the M3 strut tower brace or the Mason brace.

[HondaGoneRogue]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

External or top adjust 135 rear dampers are coming and should be available soon.

HondaGoneRogue, Nice looking car! Let's see more photos!

To aid front strut adjustment, one can remove the oem brace comletely, add the M3 strut tower brace or the Mason brace.

Sweet! Thanks! I wish I had more pics to show. I had wheel problems halfway through the event so this was really the only pic I have in it's current state. I hope to do a photoshoot soon though. My baby deserves some whoring lol. I hope to pick up some bushings and control arms from you sometime this season!

Here's my only other pic:

[larryn]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

+1 Well said. Just curious, do you have 2 knobs? I have a short one that fits under the brace and can turn like that. While it's not cake, it's not impossible.

I cannot adjust with the shortie adjust knob. I just use a torx socket and 14mm socket to loosen the strut braces. It takes 5 mins, tops, but it's not as simple as just free access to the adjustment pin, unobstructed.

[Lubo]

Originally Posted by larryn

I cannot adjust with the shortie adjust knob. I just use a torx socket and 14mm socket to loosen the strut braces. It takes 5 mins, tops, but it's not as simple as just free access to the adjustment pin, unobstructed.

What about using needle nose pliers?

[Derk1127]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

External or top adjust 135 rear dampers are coming and should be available soon.

That sounds awesome, is there an ETA on this?

[larryn]

Originally Posted by Lubo

What about using needle nose pliers?

I'd say go for it, but I've personally seen the adjustment nub broken off on them three different times, with a pair of needle nose pliers. The cost to revalve them is about the cost of replacing them.

Personally, I'd rather just loosen the one bolt, and take the other two off.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Derk1127

That sounds awesome, is there an ETA on this?

There is no ETA from Koni at this time. However, once I have ETA info, I will be posting it here and on E90post.com

Harold