M3 front control arms (Upper and lower) - A couple of $hundred less than everywhere

[BMW86]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

I think you have to find out what's rubbing before anybody can make that call. It does appear as though mine with stock suspension could run et40s and maybe even 35 or 30. Might even be preferable given how close the tire/wheel is to the strut.

No fibration issues here and I've done a few onramp logs doing 30-110-70 in pretty short distances.

My setup has been getting progressively better with each upgrade. While the E93 FSB helped level things out a bit, I'd say this was a bigger improvement. Whether or not the same could be achieved by dialing in the negative camber with the stock arms (if you can go that negative), I don't know as I never tried. Pretty cheap upgrade though if DIY'd.

I am fairly low so that may come into play. I don't mind the scrubbing if it's not damaging anything and if the car corners well.

My suspension setup is:
KW V2 lowered
M3 e93 FSB
TRW front control arms
Wavetrac LSD
225/255 19 for street
225/255 18 for track

I'll eventually change out the rear to m3 spec but in no hurry just yet.

[John_01]

Originally Posted by BMW86

I've had the front control arms in for a few days now. I'm not sure how to describe it accurately but there is a marginal improvement. I think I'll be able to appreciate it on the track, on the street it's very hard to tell. The workshop did an alignment as well and now I'm scrubbing in the fronts, but it sounds like it's coming from the inner guard area.

I think its more likely to be rubbing on the fender / outer liner. The M3 arms are longer and add camber by moving the hub carrier further out. It means the wheels become very slightly closer to the fender (a few mm) and may also reduce the ride height. If it turns out to be rubbing on the fender, maybe you can pop the alignment pin at the top of the strut and get a bit more negative camber. Otherwise just accept a little rub depending how bad it is.

[SteveAZ]

^good point...this definitely was not my experience and I have room to play but I am on stock suspension.

[ECSTuning]

Originally Posted by BMW86

Do you think this means I could run slightly more aggressive offsets if I wanted to? The scrubbing isn't bad but it's definitely there.

Your specs aren't really out side the norm. I have a lot of guys running 10mm more aggressive than your fronts, so as long as on your particular car (every set up is a bit different) you have clearance between the fender lip and the wheel/tire you could add a small spacer to help push them away from the suspension if you're rubbing.

[ewul]

Front Tension Strut have the same length like original?
I have new tension Strunt, I wanna replace only control arm, Is that make sense for more camber?

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by ewul

Front Tension Strut have the same length like original?
I have new tension Strunt, I wanna replace only control arm, Is that make sense for more camber?

yes you can do wishbones without changing tension strut. I did this recently, but eventually upgraded the tension strut as well. There was no problem with just wishbones and did feel positive difference with camber and bushing.

[ewul]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

yes you can do wishbones without changing tension strut. I did this recently, but eventually upgraded the tension strut as well. There was no problem with just wishbones and did feel positive difference with camber and bushing.

great

When changing camber (control arm and delete pin) toe automatically change to?

[John_01]

You are better off to do the tension strut together with the wishbone. The standard tension struts have the really soft hydraulic bushing that robs the steering of feel and they aren't very durable.

I'm haven't tried it myself, but I think if you only change the wishbone and keep the standard tension strut the wheelbase of your car may get 5-10mm longer, and lose about 1 degree of caster.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by ewul

great

When changing camber (control arm and delete pin) toe automatically change to?

On my 3er, definite yes. Wishbone is longer pushes toe in quite a bit. You will probably want to go for an alignment, immediately afterward.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by ewul

great

When changing camber (control arm and delete pin) toe automatically change to?

On my 3er, definite yes. Wishbone is longer pushes toe in quite a bit. You will probably want to go for an alignment, immediately afterward.

[ewul]

Originally Posted by John_01

You are better off to do the tension strut together with the wishbone. The standard tension struts have the really soft hydraulic bushing that robs the steering of feel and they aren't very durable.

Yes, I thinking about polyurethane bushing for tension strut, that could be better solutions, and cheaper

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by John_01

You are better off to do the tension strut together with the wishbone. The standard tension struts have the really soft hydraulic bushing that robs the steering of feel and they aren't very durable.

I'm haven't tried it myself, but I think if you only change the wishbone and keep the standard tension strut the wheelbase of your car may get 5-10mm longer, and lose about 1 degree of caster.

Agree that changing both is better and if you have someone else do the work, might be cheaper to do all at once.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by John_01

You are better off to do the tension strut together with the wishbone. The standard tension struts have the really soft hydraulic bushing that robs the steering of feel and they aren't very durable.

I'm haven't tried it myself, but I think if you only change the wishbone and keep the standard tension strut the wheelbase of your car may get 5-10mm longer, and lose about 1 degree of caster.

Agree that changing both is better and if you have someone else do the work, might be cheaper to do all at once.

[Dackelone]

Any updates guys???

Can anyone talk about the quality of the TRW units vs the BMW ///M ones?

[Zombie1]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Any updates guys???

Can anyone talk about the quality of the TRW units vs the BMW ///M ones?

I want to pull the trigger on the kit from turnermotorsports but are unsure If I should pay extra for the bmw oem part

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-12...t-e82-e9x.aspx

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Zombie1

I want to pull the trigger on the kit from turnermotorsports but are unsure If I should pay extra for the bmw oem part

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-12...t-e82-e9x.aspx

I am leaning toward buying the parts from my bmw dealer. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

[RimasRS]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I am leaning toward buying the parts from my bmw dealer. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

So Dack now you ready to pull the trigger?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by RimasRS

So Dack now you ready to pull the trigger?

I'm getting closer. Maybe by mid summer in time for our Stelvio 2.0 tour.

[SteveAZ]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Any updates guys???

Can anyone talk about the quality of the TRW units vs the BMW ///M ones?

I thought we already had this debate.

My TRW's now have a couple thousand miles on them...my opinion hasn't changed. For the price of a cheap set of coilovers I have totally transformed my cars handling characteristics....so much so my next upgrade will be an LSD...then coilovers (not cheap ones).

Here is one of my arms...
I obviously can't comment on the "genuine" BMW arms.

There will always be doubt unless you're the TRW guy that pulls, grinds, and packages these arms.

[Zombie1]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

I thought we already had this debate.

My TRW's now have a couple thousand miles on them...my opinion hasn't changed. For the price of a cheap set of coilovers I have totally transformed my cars handling characteristics....so much so my next upgrade will be an LSD...then coilovers (not cheap ones).

Here is one of my arms...
I obviously can't comment on the "genuine" BMW arms.

There will always be doubt unless you're the TRW guy that pulls, grinds, and packages these arms.

So you got couple thousand on them no compliats? I want this kit so bad but afraid to pull the trigger

[SteveAZ]

Turner Motorsports...$386

I should clarify my statement though.

I consider a cheap set of coilovers to be $1000

For a $1000 I did...

TRW M3 control arms...$400
M3 FSB.....................$260
Whiteline RSBs............$200
Alignment..................$110

Total price.................$970 +/-

Also note, this was all DIY except for the alignment and I have Arc 8's and PSS in the interest of full disclosure.

No complaints at all and I believe my alignment specs are in this thread...shop removed pins to achieve -1.5 camber. You can read my RSFB thread in this category to follow the progression and my experiences.

[andrey_gta]

To clarify the prices, Turner offers both, TRW for 386 and OE //M for 200 more.
other vendors offer TRW kits to, eg FCP Euro, ECS and others mentioned in this thread