|
|
|
07-03-2014, 11:15 AM | #1 |
Lieutenant
56
Rep 481
Posts |
Replacing my own clutch. Reassure me.
I'm buying ECS's "is" clutch upgrade which includes the following items: Clutch friction disc, throw-out and release bearing, clutch fork lever, pressure plate, and pressure plate bolts for my FBO+Meth car making around 400WHP.
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135....0L/ES1897635/ I was also reading that BMW uses a plastic Clutch Pivot Pin, and i will replace the plastic pin with a SS Rogueengineering one. http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogu...E-CLU-PIN.html While the transmission is removed I was wondering if there is anything else that can easily be accessed and replaced or upgraded? Also if there is a detailed DIY floating around? If not I will more than likely buy the e90 Bentley book for reference. *What kind of gains and loss would be noticeable with a aluminum or steel SMFW? Is it beneficial? Can I go ahead and not replace my steel DMFW? **Clutch fluid changed 7k miles ago, as well as lower transmission mounts to solid ones.
__________________
2008 BMW 135i ///MSport Alpine White / Taupe Leatherette Cobb 2+ Aggressive | BMS Intake | ER Charge Pipe + Tial Q | ER FMIC | RR Downpipe | RR Exhaust | RR OCC | KWV1 | Apex ARC-8 245/18/40, 275/18/35 |
07-03-2014, 02:49 PM | #2 |
Major
81
Rep 1,051
Posts |
Replacing the rear main seal is pretty standard while you're bothering with a clutch in any car.
__________________
2009 BMW 135i 6MT Sport, AFE intake, Cobb AP, Apex 18x8.5+9.5, 255/275 PSS
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-03-2014, 06:02 PM | #4 |
Major
1023
Rep 1,264
Posts |
Rear main seal... it's a PITA though.
I didn't see any mention of an actual clutch in there
__________________
750whp 135i Build | Budget 335i Build | F80 M3 Build
🎬 YouTube channel (35K+ subs): youtube.com/jakespence135 📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence 🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com |
Appreciate
0
|
07-03-2014, 07:54 PM | #5 |
First Lieutenant
130
Rep 351
Posts |
This is a very informative video
__________________
Ohlins Road & Track Coilovers / Apex ARC 8's 245/255-35 MPSS / Wagner Downpipes / Wagner EVOII Intercooler / ER Charge Pipe / Forge DV / PowerFlex RSFB / PowerFlex Differential Bushings / MFactory 3.46 Torsion LSD / MHD Flasher
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-05-2014, 11:03 PM | #7 |
Lieutenant
56
Rep 481
Posts |
What is the benefit of a single mas steel flywheel?
__________________
2008 BMW 135i ///MSport Alpine White / Taupe Leatherette Cobb 2+ Aggressive | BMS Intake | ER Charge Pipe + Tial Q | ER FMIC | RR Downpipe | RR Exhaust | RR OCC | KWV1 | Apex ARC-8 245/18/40, 275/18/35 |
Appreciate
0
|
07-08-2014, 07:47 PM | #9 |
First Lieutenant
130
Rep 351
Posts |
Depending on either a steel or aluminum SMFW there will be a slight weight savings. Another advertised benefit it the direct connection between the FW and clutch.
In my opinion, for a street driven car it's overkill and the drawbacks far out weight the benefits. I really don't see a huge cost savings with a SMFW. There are plenty of reputable machine shops that can machine DMFW like ours if it's within spec. If you choose to go SMFW you will have increased driveline NVH. Our transmissions have a bit of drivetrain/gear rattle even with the DMFW. I would reach out to the companies that are manufacturing these SMFW and see what they have to say.
__________________
Ohlins Road & Track Coilovers / Apex ARC 8's 245/255-35 MPSS / Wagner Downpipes / Wagner EVOII Intercooler / ER Charge Pipe / Forge DV / PowerFlex RSFB / PowerFlex Differential Bushings / MFactory 3.46 Torsion LSD / MHD Flasher
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-09-2014, 02:18 PM | #10 |
Lieutenant
33
Rep 578
Posts |
I went with a Spec Steel SMFW and the noise with the AC off is barely noticeable but with the AC on makes the car sound horrible unless you push the clutch in. Weight savings was only about 3 lbs so no benefit there. You only need a SMFW if your pushing higher power that stock framed turbo's can't achieve, I'd say above 600HP. I replaced mine for the safety reason that there have been a few DMFW's come apart and a handful of people that had the springs break and not properly work. Most recommend replacing the flywheel even if it's with a new OEM one.
__________________
2008 135i - MHD/JB4, MS DP's, AMS IC, UI CAI, CDV delete, M3 control arms/Links, RE Toe Link, ECS Trailing Arm, M3 rear SF & Trans bushings, SS brake lines, Michelin PSS.
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-11-2014, 02:00 AM | #12 |
Private
20
Rep 54
Posts |
I would replace the pilot bearing, transmission bolts, flex disk with 6 nuts and shift linkage plastic washers. Personally I wouldn't replace the rear main as it is extremely rare to see it leak on newer bmw's (many shops mis-diagnose leaking engine oil pan as a rear main).
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-13-2014, 09:25 PM | #13 | |
The Crowing
111
Rep 2,005
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
2009 135i : BMS JB4 G5 ISO,CXRacing FMIC Kit,Injen Cold Air Intake,Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe,Walboro Inline Fuel Pump, E85 BMS Backend Flash w/ 60% E85,BMS Meth injection (trunkmount),BMS dual meth nozzles,Spec stage 2+ clutch w/ steel SWFW,BMS Catless Downpipes,Berk Tech Race Axleback |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|