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      06-23-2010, 01:33 PM   #45
REVNU
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You will get 1000 posts in this thread and get 989 different opinions on the "best" procedure.

Just follow what is in the factory manual. I don't think it's any easier than that. There are some people that disagree with factory break-in procedures, but I guess we're all entitled to our opinions.
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      06-23-2010, 01:37 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REVNU View Post
You will get 1000 posts in this thread and get 989 different opinions on the "best" procedure.

Just follow what is in the factory manual. I don't think it's any easier than that. There are some people that disagree with factory break-in procedures, but I guess we're all entitled to our opinions.

Actually hard break in vs following the manual is MUCH easier.. Manual gives you rules to follow.

Hard break in lets you floor it.

So actually, it does get easier than that..


Jus sayin..
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      06-23-2010, 01:47 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spud View Post
Actually hard break in vs following the manual is MUCH easier.. Manual gives you rules to follow.

Hard break in lets you floor it.

So actually, it does get easier than that..


Jus sayin..
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      06-23-2010, 03:40 PM   #48
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Someone once told me that the break-in isn't as important anymore as it used to be because all engines are tested / have a break-in procedure at the factory.

Break-in, he said, has more to do now with the drivetrain and axles getting used to the speeds.
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      06-23-2010, 08:53 PM   #49
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I've heard that you should drive it in reverse to redline 6 times, then do 2 pulls to 550 RPMs. Repeat 10 times. That should do it.
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      06-23-2010, 09:42 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
So they removed your engine and disassembled it at 15,000 km (like BMW does), to measure for wear and inspect for scuffing or did they pour Motor Man in the oil filler hole and he slid thru your engine with a micro camera?

Do you see how ridiculous dealer assertions, website recommendations and anecdotal reports are?
I couldn't really care more about your very terrible attempt at trolling.

My engine works perfectly after 30,000km and its second scheduled service. I have no doubt that the way I wore my car in was fine.

Do you see how ridiculous your personal assertions, claims of expertise, pushing your opinions and really lame sarcasm are?

I flogged my car and both BMW and my regular private mechanic have both said the engine is in good condition. One key indicator of engine wear is the oil lifetime. But from reading your previous posts, i'm sure you already know this.

Wondering why you completely neglected to remember that? Hmmmm....

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      06-24-2010, 12:08 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
Yeah, we need more opinions on engine break-in because the factory engineers don't have enough test data and they make wild assertions when they tell you the proper process based on actual real world testing. Damn those engineers! Why don't they read these forums instead of wasting their time actually testing to get factual, objective information. What were they thinking? Haven't they heard of Moron Man and his expert technical knowledge?
Once again, over stated, over emphasized, and over blown.

The old tactic of rewording the old college blue-book question, so that you can answer it, won't fly here.

Who made the claim that factory engineers don't have enough test data?
Who said "damn those engineers."?
Who said "motor man" is the end all of correct break in?
YOU did! It's easy to knock down a straw man argument that you yourself created.
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      06-24-2010, 12:15 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
These threads are so enlightening and useful... if you already know the answers.

Otherwise they must be maddening for those who want accurate technical info. but instead get baseless opinions from people who are too lazy to invest a little effort in educating themselves on the subject matter so that they too can be informed and make smart technical decisions.

These threads all end up the same way and it's a damn shame as the Net can be very helpful when it's not the Mis-Information Hwy.
Your self edification is grand.
You really do believe that you are the only person who knows anything about cars and engines. Good for you.
Make sure you clean up after you're done mentally pleasuring yourself.
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      06-24-2010, 01:01 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
How do I know when the engine is turning backwards?
You will rip through the space/time continuum and propel yourself into the past. At least that's how I knew the first time.
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      06-24-2010, 10:28 AM   #54
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TR, we have discussed this before.

You have to admit that corporate board rooms can print one thing, when the engineers think different.

You assume that what is in the manual is what the engineers recommend. I dont assume, I asert that it is possible that what is stated in the manual came from corporate board room, and the folks that want to hold on to their cash.

In a mass production such as vehicles, it is always better to go the ease into it direction to limit the possibility of manufacturer defects as the cause of an engine problem.

Most likely if there is a defect, it shows up out of warranty. However if you drive your car proper from the beginning, any major defects would rear its ugly head sooner AND while still under warranty.

cheers.
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      06-24-2010, 11:15 AM   #55
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I wouldn't say they conspire to blow at 50001, but I think they want it to last AT least until the warranty is over.

can we just sticky this thread and then redirect every user that asks this question. They can reread it and then decide for themselves.
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      06-24-2010, 11:24 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixcat View Post
We are already in year 2010. Now I understand why at this time (with all the science we've developed), this society still exists:

http://theflatearthsociety.org/
OMG! I think I have found my lulz for the rest of the month. This is like comedy gold... And here I thought Flat Earth Society was just a Bad Religion song but there are actually people who think the earth is flat?!?! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...

Thanks for the link.
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      07-01-2010, 09:22 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spud View Post
TR, we have discussed this before.

You have to admit that corporate board rooms can print one thing, when the engineers think different.

You assume that what is in the manual is what the engineers recommend. I dont assume, I asert that it is possible that what is stated in the manual came from corporate board room, and the folks that want to hold on to their cash.
.

Please explain the motivation the board room would have for giving you an improper break in proceedure.
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      07-01-2010, 03:32 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raine View Post
Hi, I'm due to pick up my '11 128i Coupe tomorrow.

How do I properly "Break it in"? Is there an oil change after the break in period?

This is my first BMW and I want to get things right =)
For diesel engine drivers read this awesome article....


http://www.thedieselstop.com/content...iesel%20Engine
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      07-01-2010, 05:23 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxnix View Post
While material sciences have brought improvements to production wear items, there has been no overturning the laws of physics. While engines may survive early abuse for awhile, even long enough to get past initial OEM warranty, gentle break in after reaching operating temperatures with early lubrication changes will result in an engine that will last longer. When does most of the initial metal wear occur?
Nice articulation

Last edited by JB135MDCT; 07-01-2010 at 05:28 PM..
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      07-01-2010, 05:28 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
They want your engine to blow up in the first 50K so they can buy you a new one...
Nope, BMW wants it to blow up at 50,001 miles so the customer can boost BMW's profits.
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      07-01-2010, 05:45 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT8282 View Post
For diesel engine drivers read this awesome article....


http://www.thedieselstop.com/content...iesel%20Engine
No time to read all, but one key point is loading during break-in. Short burst of hard acceleration may fall into this category. I would still leave the first 500kms to light loading for purposes of gear surface break-in is more critical, so I apply impulse of high rpms under light loads during this time.

V-8 guys like this method of break-in but I'm not so sure it is needed based on my experience or really that I am satisfied with the reults not knowing it could be better based on MPG allone.

Most say my 15 year old K75 is not broken in yet.
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      07-01-2010, 06:05 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB135MDCT View Post
Most say my 15 year old K75 is not broken in yet.
Beemers are a whole other story. The engine parts in my R1200RT are just starting to play nice with each other after 5 years and 26k miles.

The cars seem to be properly run in by about 6~8,000.

Tom
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      07-02-2010, 07:55 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raine View Post
Hi, I'm due to pick up my '11 128i Coupe tomorrow.

How do I properly "Break it in"? Is there an oil change after the break in period?

This is my first BMW and I want to get things right =)


As I thought, you're getting a million different answers. I just went with the manual's recommendations... though I cheated a little bit on the miles.

I haven't seen any actual scientific study on how different break-in methods affect the drivetrain, but there certainly is a bunch of anecdotal "evidence" out there.
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      07-03-2010, 02:47 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dak Tirque View Post
Read previous replies in threads much?

Seriously all...I've only been here for 2-3 months, and this "break in" crap is getting OLD. Like I said in my first reply to this thread..discussed well beyond death...

Just search OP, there is nothing to see here...
+100

These threads come up at least twice a week.

The manufacturer prescribes break in procedures for a reason. If you follow the procedure it will save the manufacturer, and you, money in the long run with less warranty claims and less wear and tear. It is in your best interest to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Do not listen to the dealer, you having problems with the car actually increases their profit. More labor, parts profit and probably another car sooner.
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      07-04-2010, 06:50 PM   #65
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Why is driving on the highway so bad for the break in procedure?
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      07-04-2010, 07:29 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxnix View Post
Some inquisitve owners might find this paper on gear lubrication of some interest.

http://www.performanceoiltechnology....te%20Paper.pdf
Thanks Maxnix great read...........and boy i had a hunch that the Amsoil and Redline were going to be the best oils.

When i had my Jeep GrandCherokke w/t solid axles front and back, I replaced the crappy factory cheap juice with Amsoil severe gear......and never had any diff problems........no noises, no humming, no clicking....nothing!
I use redline in my Audi, however, the "key" with redline, is to do annually oil changes, diff/trans axle. The oil is great, but not made for "lifetime" periods.

When my 135i hit 20K miles............Amsoil is going in the rear diff...PERIOD!!!
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