Anyone Install A Fumoto Valve On Their NA Motor

[Tommm]

The oil drain is on the bottom of the oil pan on my 128. Has anyone installed a Fumoto valve on their 128? How much does it lower the clearance?

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/...ls-tab-reviews

[$iriu$black]

I have a similar one on mine. It's from Stahlbus. It sticks out but other than that it's great for its purpose.

[Tommm]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

I have a similar one on mine. It's from Stahlbus. It sticks out but other than that it's great for its purpose.

I just ordered a Stahlbus. Only twice the price of a Fumoto but it comes with the hose and I think it is shorter which is good since the plug is on the bottom of the car. Does it touch the underside tray or is there room between the valve and the tray?

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by Tommm

I just ordered a Stahlbus. Only twice the price of a Fumoto but it comes with the hose and I think it is shorter which is good since the plug is on the bottom of the car. Does it touch the underside tray or is there room between the valve and the tray?

It doesn't touch. You have a lot of clearance on there. Mine's been on for almost 2 years now. No issues. Build quality is topnotch. I even have it on my Volvo XC90.

[Tommm]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

It doesn't touch. You have a lot of clearance on there. Mine's been on for almost 2 years now. No issues. Build quality is topnotch. I even have it on my Volvo XC90.

It should arrive today. I saw somewhere that they sell just the valve without the hose. I may do that on the S80 V8 after I check how it drains and clearance which i doubt is an issue. I may drill a keyhole in the undertray instead of removing the whole thing every oil change if i have that valve. With the extra ground clearance I wouldnt worry about the valve getting hit on her XC90 which goes to the dealer for oil changes since I dont drive/diagnose it often enough. They knock $20 off the dino oil change if i supply the oil, so I'm supplying synthetic that costs $35 for the 7 quarts.

[WDE82]

Originally Posted by Tommm

It should arrive today. I saw somewhere that they sell just the valve without the hose. I may do that on the S80 V8 after I check how it drains and clearance which i doubt is an issue. I may drill a keyhole in the undertray instead of removing the whole thing every oil change if i have that valve. With the extra ground clearance I wouldnt worry about the valve getting hit on her XC90 which goes to the dealer for oil changes since I dont drive/diagnose it often enough. They knock $20 off the dino oil change if i supply the oil, so I'm supplying synthetic that costs $35 for the 7 quarts.

Why are you removing the whole tray? There is a cutout in it just for draining oil.

[Tommm]

Originally Posted by WDE82

Why are you removing the whole tray? There is a cutout in it just for draining oil.

The S80 V8 doesnt have a door. If i cut a keyhole in the Volvo tray i probably won't affect the aerodynamics enough, and can put a piece of duct tape over the hole each oil change if i am that concerned with aerodynamics of the under tray.

My 128's oil level sensor isnt sensing so i am going to install the valve, drain some oil into a clean jug and fiddle with the sensor to see if i can wake it. If that doesn't work i will replace it. I ordered a used one off ebay. Cheap enough to gamble. Can you believe I bought a highperformance European car and am installing a part from a junkyard. Blasphemy.

I dont want to drain the good oil into my dirty pan, and i dont want to toss 7 quarts of synthetic out for each step, so with the valve i can measure, add and remove the same oil without contaminating it.

[WDE82]

Oh I missed where you said it was for your S80...

I just bought a Stahlbus one for the 128. I'll post pics when it's installed (next change this month).

[minirips2]

Thanks for starting this thread, Tommm. The first oil change I did on my 128i, it was on jackstands, and level. Nice, clean, and quick. The next one I did was on ramps. Once the oil flow from the drain plug slowed, it ran down the back of the oil pan while I was replacing the filter, so I didn't notice until it was too late. It made a total mess of my driveway! I was planning to put in a drain valve at my next change, and I was curious if the valve clears the drain plug access door. Good to know. I'll check out the Stahlbus valve, too.

[Tommm]

Originally Posted by minirips2

Thanks for starting this thread, Tommm. The first oil change I did on my 128i, it was on jackstands, and level. Nice, clean, and quick. The next one I did was on ramps. Once the oil flow from the drain plug slowed, it ran down the back of the oil pan while I was replacing the filter, so I didn't notice until it was too late. It made a total mess of my driveway! I was planning to put in a drain valve at my next change, and I was curious if the valve clears the drain plug access door. Good to know. I'll check out the Stahlbus valve, too.

its cheaper on amazon than the company site. I spoke with the guy at the company. He seemed very nice. I ordered it Wednesday and it was in my mailbox Friday.

[Tommm]

Installed the valve today. its cleaner if you do it during an oil change. I messed maybe a few ounces but once in it was easy to drain two quarts to see if the sender was bad. I drained two quarts and it showed I needed a quart. added a half it said add a half. So the used sender I bought will sit on a shelf for a while. where my sender doesn't work is if overfilled. it shows full, doesn't go the extra 1/4 up the graph. turns out I was reading the indicator wrong. the quadrant on the left, and the quadrant on the right are under and over filled. the quart is between the two inner lines directly over the "I" in min, and "a" in max that show when the clock is spinning.