|
|
|
03-13-2016, 05:02 PM | #1 |
Second Lieutenant
59
Rep 231
Posts |
Riveting question
OK, so I had the leaking windshield tank issue. Another common problem among BMWs (don't get me started).
I did the repair myself following this video for 3 series E90: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY9tsxPANxg (You realize just how much the original 1 series is like a miniaturized 3 series. Almost every part is identical). Anyway, there are three rivets that are "single use" only holding the wheel well cover: My stealer's parts man insists that the replacements he sold me (BMW Part No. 51-11-1-908-077) are the correct ones. But there's no way they fit in the holes. Even removing the pin and trying to hammer them in with a hammer does not work. Does anyone know the correct part No. for the proper rivets? TIA. BTW, the repair was successful, no more leak. However, the cheap ($13) replacement pump (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZCL08K) produces a very weak jet. Now, the original BMW can be found online for $65 (and at the stealer's for $98+CA sales tax). If anyone knows about a better replacement that doesn't cost as much as the OEM, please chime in as well. |
03-14-2016, 08:11 AM | #2 |
Major General
1837
Rep 6,990
Posts
Drives: 15 F80 M3, 22 G01 X3 30i
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clayton, NC
|
Best bet ordering OEM parts is Tischer BMW (getbmwparts dot com); much better pricing than your local dealer, unless they'll match Tischer's price plus shipping cost.
__________________
2015 F80 ///M3 Sedan 7DCT Tanzanite, 2022 X3 sDrive30i 8AT Brooklyn Grey |
Appreciate
0
|
03-14-2016, 09:38 AM | #3 |
Banned
117
Rep 460
Posts |
He sold you the right parts. To put these pins in correctly takes patience. You obviously don't possess that trait, because you don't use a hammer on them. When you buy any part, bring along the old part for comparison assuming you are buying over the BMW parts counter.
In the video, the guy doesn't know how to properly raise the car. He should use a jack pad with his jack, and the car stand must be placed under the frame or some part of the suspension not under the body. A better way would be to raise the car on the center of the front cross member. As far as disassembly is concerned, he's taking way too many things apart to get to the pump. |
Appreciate
0
|
03-14-2016, 08:14 PM | #4 | |||
Second Lieutenant
59
Rep 231
Posts |
Quote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fQQ7i4gkrk But if I can't force them in with a hammer--with the pin out!--, it really looks to me like those are NOT the right part No. Also notice the part No. in the video: 51 777 171 004. Quote:
Quote:
But the leak is gone. |
|||
Appreciate
0
|
03-14-2016, 08:16 PM | #5 |
California-bound
385
Rep 1,480
Posts |
Those pins suck! I've broken a handful of them as well. They aren't one time use, but they may as well be.
__________________
Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18 https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3 |
Appreciate
0
|
03-14-2016, 10:36 PM | #7 | |
Second Lieutenant
59
Rep 231
Posts |
Quote:
Before I go to Harbor Freight and spend money on a tool that may or may not be the correct one, I just wanted to see if there's anyway they fit. So I removed the pin, then squeezed the tips together and tried to insert them into the holes. They wouldn't go even with a hammer, which started to deform the pins. This is my way to tell that they are not the correct part number. If anybody has managed to use those rivets in these holes, please tell us how you did it. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Tags |
expanding rivets |
|
|