what price are we all paying for new 135i's?

[alik01]

Originally Posted by x5mad

Seems unanimous that 70k is a big ask. I agree that rrp driveway minus 10% is what most seem to work on.

Personally I don't see anything wrong about asking these sort of questions or posting up what one paid for a car. Its business at the end of the day and the consumer is the one that drives car prices. If the consumer continues to accept paying 100k for a car then this is what the dealer will continue to try to get away with. If everyone decided to not buy a certain car or model then after a year of sitting on the forecourt the dealer would then have to reconsider their pricing strategy. Sure there are other points to consider, but this does play a huge part.

Did you guys know that the golf R is actually a bit more expensive in the UK than a 135 coupe? So how is it that in australia a golf R is approx 50k and the 135 72k? They all use the excuse of GST, importation costs and LCT. but a 22k difference? I don't feel sorry for the dealer or feel the need to respect them by not posting up price paid. Profit margins are bigger than you think and there is a huge discrepancy in pricing, as per above example. Why can VW do it for 50k and BMW 72k? It's partly because thats what the consumer is prepared to pay for it. We already pay too much taxes!

I am not trying to oversimplify it, there are many variables involved. But pick up a uk magazine and start comparing like for like prices which should take the taxes part of it out of the equation. Doing this will reveal that Porsche australia are even more guilty.

Many have said if you think its overpriced or a rip off then you don't have to buy it, but this is my point. People who say this are the ones who have bought it and are perpetuating the notion that the pricing is ok as they are prepared to pay that amount.

Anyway i digress, my 135: vert/metallic/bus nav/pdc front and rear/auto/tint/m sport. I paid 89k driveaway.

Armed with this knowledge i would have felt a lot more confident in buying a car and know that im not being taken for a ride. This sort of thing is what forums are great for. Some make it out to be such a taboo subject, but im sure a lot of people would want to know some sort of ballpark when they are out there negotiating.

You make some great points x5nad, but there is always the issue of LCT as well, 33% extra gettin added on by the government regardless of the vehicle really does affect things and our cars are nowhere near the fuel effecient exemption.

I am in no way defending the dealer as most would happily rip the skin off your back, but BMW Aus is mostly to blame, they are the ones with the high invoice prices and they'll continue to as long we rave on about the ultimate driving machine.

Back to the OP, mate as general consensus suggests, don't settle for anything less than 10% off the completed quote with everything you want on it and 'dealer delivery' is pure profit, does not symbolize a damn thing. Look straight past it when you're negotiating.

[Bimmer_Freak]

Some very good tips there, thanks guys.

So i guess an auto DCT would be around $86K on the road so i should be expecting around $78K (10% off), anything under that is a bonus.

Is there a massive difference between the DCT and the normal auto, in terms of shifting speed, auto rev matching/blipping on downshifts etc? Anyone driven both?

[sparoz]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Freak

Some very good tips there, thanks guys.

So i guess an auto DCT would be around $86K on the road so i should be expecting around $78K (10% off), anything under that is a bonus.

Is there a massive difference between the DCT and the normal auto, in terms of shifting speed, auto rev matching/blipping on downshifts etc? Anyone driven both?

I have only driven the DCT on the 335i, but it should be the same as the 135i interms of reviewing the gearbox. The Auto is already mighty fast and it does all the rev matching/blipping etc. However, I personally prefer the DCT as it is even quicker! I know Richard will come out and said otherwise . I don't know the official figures, but the difference between fast and very fast is small - measured in the milli seconds.

However, someone who knows a bit more might want to comment on how the power loss when switching gears on the auto. In a DCT there would be no loss on power on the drive train and it is a big plus in a turbo car.

[BMW //MPOWER]

Originally Posted by sparoz

I have only driven the DCT on the 335i, but it should be the same as the 135i interms of reviewing the gearbox. The Auto is already mighty fast and it does all the rev matching/blipping etc. However, I personally prefer the DCT as it is even quicker! I know Richard will come out and said otherwise . I don't know the official figures, but the difference between fast and very fast is small - measured in the milli seconds.

However, someone who knows a bit more might want to comment on how the power loss when switching gears on the auto. In a DCT there would be no loss on power on the drive train and it is a big plus in a turbo car.

Please elaborate how an auto (not-DCT) can blip the throttle & rev match on downshifts without a clutch?

[BBK]

Originally Posted by BMW //MPOWER

Please elaborate how an auto (not-DCT) can blip the throttle & rev match on downshifts without a clutch?

I can't explain it, but it does

[sparoz]

Originally Posted by BMW //MPOWER

Please elaborate how an auto (not-DCT) can blip the throttle & rev match on downshifts without a clutch?

Don't know, it just does - something to do with the torque converter? Or the clutches inside the transmission?

[05C4R]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Freak

Hi,

I'm new to BMW's and concidering trading my Evo X in for a new 135i.

Please post your total cost paid for your new 135i (if this is allowed).

The retail price is $70K + on-roads isn't it? I'm hoping to pick one up for $70K drive-away with auto and navigation.

Do you think thats too much to ask (impossible?)?

thats mission impossible, better off selling your evo private and get at least 10k more for it then a bmw dealer will give you. seriously expect to get less then red book for a trade in. then buy a demo or nearly new 135i for 65 - 75k.

[Bimmer_Freak]

Originally Posted by beemer

then buy a demo or nearly new 135i for 65 - 75k.

Yeah thats what i've decided to do. Sell the Evo privately then look at getting a used or demonstrator 135i DCT for around $70K.

[BMWRX]

Originally Posted by beemer

thats mission impossible, better off selling your evo private and get at least 10k more for it then a bmw dealer will give you. seriously expect to get less then red book for a trade in. then buy a demo or nearly new 135i for 65 - 75k.

Mine was a demo, auto, with sunroof, metallic paint, front PDC, and it went passed $70K on the fly. So, $70K will be a very impressive deal, especially if you can get nav thrown in as well.

As for the throttle blipping on the auto, I think it does. It's not as impressive as that on the M3 but it matches the revs pretty darn well. But then again, it could all be in my head.

[x5mad]

Erm... You don't need a clutch in order to blip the throttle. The phrase means just that literally - to give the throttle a quick jab. Throttle blipping is done in order to match engine revs to wheel speed. So as you are slowing down and change down the revs would have dropped and therefore engine speed is spinning slower than wheel speed. If you blip the throttle you will bring the two in line with each other.

The benefits is that the transmission struggles less to bring engine revs in line with wheel speed, if there is a mismatch on braking the rear end tends to spin or squirm. Also, for cars with clutches it supposedly prevents increased wear on the clutch by making the clutch work less ie it does not have to struggle to match engine revs with wheel speed.

So an auto CAN blip. By doing this the rear is more stable under braking as well as being able to match engine speed with wheel speed. Therefore a clutch is NOT required. However if there is one then it helps extend its life. Think about it and why Ferrari, maserati, BMW dct all do it.

If you're unconvinced google it.

[Orlin]

I just hop in and put my foot down and she goes....and boy does she go

[sparoz]

Originally Posted by Orlin

I just hop in and put my foot down and she goes....and boy does she go

Just noticed your websites - unique mobiles - sorry very OT and threadjack.

[Orlin]

Originally Posted by sparoz

Just noticed your websites - unique mobiles - sorry very OT and threadjack.

threadjack excused

[Jeef Beef]

Originally Posted by BMW //MPOWER

Please elaborate how an auto (not-DCT) can blip the throttle & rev match on downshifts without a clutch?

Most conventional torque converter automatics (especially the ZF units used by BMW) have throttle blip on downshifts. If it didn't, you'd experience massive compression lockup just like if you downshifted with a manual without revmatching or heel-toe. A torque converter is a fluid coupling with less 'resistance' than a clutch plate, but it still needs to be spinning at the correct speed for the car to drive smoothly.

Not exactly sure how it works, but between the time it takes to engage the next gear, the ECU will blip the throttle to match the wheel speed for the selected gear. I know that one of my friends who as an MX-5 6AT has to do the throttle blipping himself by using left foot braking.

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Freak

Some very good tips there, thanks guys.

So i guess an auto DCT would be around $86K on the road so i should be expecting around $78K (10% off), anything under that is a bonus.

Is there a massive difference between the DCT and the normal auto, in terms of shifting speed, auto rev matching/blipping on downshifts etc? Anyone driven both?

$78k sounds like an EXCEPTIONAL price if you're able to get it. I paid that for my manual 135i with less options. You gotta keep in mind that the 135i has limited supply and demand is very high in comparison. Make sure you get the best price possible, but going too low will just cause the dealer to sell it to someone else willing to pay more. Somewhere between 80k - 82k sounds like a reasonable bet.

The DCT has launch control and significantly faster shifts. It also behaves more like a traditional manual tranny than the steptronic.

[Taymaishu]

Originally Posted by Jeef Beef

Most convention torque converter automatics (especially the ZF units used by BMW) have throttle blip on downshifts. If it didn't, you'd experience massive compression lockup just like if you downshifted with a manual without revmatching or heel-toe. A torque converter is a fluid coupling with less 'resistance' than a clutch plate, but it still needs to be spinning at the correct speed for the car to drive smoothly.

Not exactly sure how it works, but between the time it takes to engage the next gear, the ECU will blip the throttle to match the wheel speed for the selected gear. I know that one of my friends who as an MX-5 6AT has to due the throttle blipping himself by using left foot braking.

Shifting down from 3rd to 2nd from around 3000rpm, the ECU blips Christine up to around 5000 to match the rpm before 2nd engages. Quite convenient

Got to make sure the new box will do this

[Bimmer_Freak]

Ok so i test drove a steptronic (they didn't have any DCT's available) on the weekend and i absolutely love the car. Small and nimble yet has a very solid, almost heavy feel (which i like) to it. Suspension is firm, yet absorbs the bumps very well and is much more comfortable than my Evo.

It definitely feels faster than my Evo did when it was stock. Love the stock exhaust note too.

It seems there are a fair few of you on here that have paid between $78K - $82K driveway for the options that i want, so i have now increased my budget to $80K and will be buying a brand new one in either Space Grey or Alpine White.

I'll update you guys on my buying experience in the next month or so. Hopefully (1) i can get the price i want, and (2) i don't have to wait 4-5 months for my car to arrive once ordering.

[Scoobs]

^^^ if u are prepared to compromise a little on ur options, you may be able to get one from stock, or already on order. That's what I did in June. Would have loved the pro nav - but had a choice between a AW with pro and a SG without. (both with roof and being offered at the same price - both in stock). Opted for the SG.

however for me the DCT was a must have... and I waasn't going to compromise on that.

Due to tax reasons - I tend to flip my cars every 2 years or less - and have never found I had to place an order and wait. No matter how new the model. Been lucky I guess. And somewhat flexible as well.

I would change my mind on the car I want 5 times before it arrived if I had to wait 5 months : )

[Prodigy.]

How do you guys get such good prices?

VW annoyingly keep pushing delivery back on my R so popped into BMW today to price up a new 135i instead.

They have exactly the spec i want available in bond, pretty basic just AW, Sunroof and DCT and was quoted $87k drive away

Oh and i drove the DCT, way better imo than the old auto, mainly due to the paddles being seperate + & - instead of forward and backward on the same paddle, which i found confusing.

Anyone have tips on how to get the price down?

[QSH17Z]

Originally Posted by Prodigy 72

Anyone have tips on how to get the price down?

While I didn't buy a 135i, I did relatively easily manage to get 10% off a factory ordered 125i with half an hour of negotiation and no prior relationship with the dealer. I did happen to time my negotiation a few days before the end of the September quarter which would've helped. So I'd recommend that if you can handle waiting two or so more weeks you'll be better off. Of course the risk is that the car may go to someone else though. Another thing is that you want to find out if you can get onto the corporate plan for the discount and benefits it offers depending on who you work for. Lastly, from what I understand WA doesn't have much competition on the BMW dealership front so it may even be worthwhile to see if an interstate dealer will come to the party? Alot more hassle but you may save a fair bit more?

[135 Jie]

Originally Posted by Prodigy 72

How do you guys get such good prices?

VW annoyingly keep pushing delivery back on my R so popped into BMW today to price up a new 135i instead.

They have exactly the spec i want available in bond, pretty basic just AW, Sunroof and DCT and was quoted $87k drive away

Oh and i drove the DCT, way better imo than the old auto, mainly due to the paddles being seperate + & - instead of forward and backward on the same paddle, which i found confusing.

Anyone have tips on how to get the price down?

The only way I found was to wait it out! They will keep calling you but stick to your guns. I went through Auto Classic in Perth as well and I managed to get metallic paint, comfort access, pro nav, DCT, and HK stereo for 85k. This whole deal took nearly a month from when I took my first test drive however...

[Prodigy.]

Originally Posted by 135 Jie

The only way I found was to wait it out! They will keep calling you but stick to your guns. I went through Auto Classic in Perth as well and I managed to get metallic paint, comfort access, pro nav, DCT, and HK stereo for 85k. This whole deal took nearly a month from when I took my first test drive however...

Mmm interesting, from my rough calculations that's about $10k of extras yet still nearly $3k less than rrp, so a saving of $13k.

[doot]

I bought a DCT 135 from Brisbane BMW just last month and negotiating a price is always the fun part

They had a 09 demo without DCT with 1k on the dial...they were firm it was an 80+ car...

As a loyal customer there I thought there might be a hint of favourable pricing - could I have been more wrong?
Best I could neg was $86k only options were metalic, sunroof and biz nav (retail 94).


Ended up going through privatefleet (175 bucks if they secure a price than you agree to). This got the price down to
a shade over 85k with metalic, sunroof, biz nav, front parking and mobile connect (whatever that is?)

I like buying cars - it's a big game!