Midpipe install question

[EscapeYourMind]

I'm planning on swapping out my stock N54 midpipe for the berk resonated midpipe and have a quick question. Has anyone done a midpipe swap with the car on ramps only? And if so, did you raise the front or back?

[TT1351]

I did mine on a lift, but have done plenty of low clearance swaps with other stuff. To avoid frustration I would suggest ramps up front, jack stands at back or the other way around. Anything is possible, but I have tried to do so many things using shortcuts only to end up wasting way more time then if I did it the right way. Just my thoughts, Fran

[EscapeYourMind]

Damn, I only have ramps. I was hoping it wouldn't be too bad with just ramps up front since I think it is just the two bolts at the axle-back connection that would be a little tight.

[ShocknAwe]

Did it on jack stands. Take the tunnel brace and midpipe bracket off, then it drops out when you disconnect the axleback and dp bolts. SOAK the dp bolts in penetrating oil. You may break them. Axleback bolts are easy, but they like to cross thread when reinstalling. Just remember to get new dp gaskets!

[EscapeYourMind]

Yep, I've got all new hardware and gaskets just in case (and new midpipe hanger/clamp since mine is missing).

Just worried about not being able to get the car up high enough on ramps, and being inexperienced (only done simple things like jb4, spark plugs, intake, lpfp). But it seems like midpipes should be easy enough to do.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by EscapeYourMind

Yep, I've got all new hardware and gaskets just in case (and new midpipe hanger/clamp since mine is missing).

Just worried about not being able to get the car up high enough on ramps, and being inexperienced (only done simple things like jb4, spark plugs, intake, lpfp). But it seems like midpipes should be easy enough to do.

It's really not bad, key is making sure the bolts aren't seized.

[e36addict]

I'd suggest the front. Also, definitely what others said about soaking the bolts first. And for the axle back bolts, I highly recommend putting some anti-seize on the threads before re-installation. Those threads are very soft and like to get boogered up.

[EscapeYourMind]

I got some Blaster Penetrating Oil to use for the dp bolts. And it sounds like using the ramps on the front is the way to go.

[Dackelone]

Make sure you have a QUALITY torx bit to remove those cross braces. Those bolts are really torqued down well. A long breaker bar would be very handy too.

Your downpipe bolts will snap off. Have a drill and or torch handy with new stainless steel bolts and nuts. Also have new dp gaskets - bc the old ones will fall apart when you remove them.

In the end... it might just be a whole lot easier to pay an indi shop to do the install. Couldn't be more than 1.5 hours labor.

[EscapeYourMind]

Thanks everyone for all the info! Dackelone I've been using your N55 midpipe DIY as a guide, and picked up a breaker bar and the extra hardware.

I do have an appointment with my usual indi shop just in case, but I would like to be able to do more work myself. Only one way to get more experience. I just worry about getting part way into it and realize I can't get something off, or back together, or need a tool and it's my only car.

Edit: Since it seems like the dp bolts may be the problem area I'll probably start with them and see how bad they look (I got my vrsf dp installed about a year ago, and had the exhaust dropped back in april when I had my rsfb done, so maybe they aren't too bad), and try to loosen them. If I can't even get them loosened I may just take it to the shop.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by EscapeYourMind

Thanks everyone for all the info! Dackelone I've been using your N55 midpipe DIY as a guide, and picked up a breaker bar and the extra hardware.

I do have an appointment with my usual indi shop just in case, but I would like to be able to do more work myself. Only one way to get more experience. I just worry about getting part way into it and realize I can't get something off, or back together, or need a tool and it's my only car.

Edit: Since it seems like the dp bolts may be the problem area I'll probably start with them and see how bad they look (I got my vrsf dp installed about a year ago, and had the exhaust dropped back in april when I had my rsfb done, so maybe they aren't too bad), and try to loosen them. If I can't even get them loosened I may just take it to the shop.

With afterrmarket DPs on there, you will have better/fresher bolts in there, so that should make things easier. As Dack mentioned the brace can be a bitch so make sure you have quality tools (which is a given) ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS quality tools.

[rhodesman]

another note: remove the bracket FIRST!!!! I did it the other way and just about stripped the bolt holding the pipes due to the weight of the pipes on them when removing. doing that beforehand would have fixed that problem for me.