Feedback on Codes Please

[weeeee]

Pretext: this is on a 2011 135i with nearly 70k miles.

Last weekend, I was driving with the AC and noticed a fan spinning up intermittently. I believe it was the radiator fan kicking in to deal with the burden put on the cooling system by the AC. Side note I noticed when I toggled the AC on, oil temperature dropped from ~250 to ~200 degrees as well. Also noticed the fan would spin down and stay down a few minutes after toggling the AC OFF. Later that night, the fan came on for extended periods of time, and eventually I got a yellow coolant temperature light on the dashboard, "Engine Too Hot". I pulled over immediately and shut down the car. After checking under the hood, I hooked up carly to read what codes were thrown. Started the car back up about 15 minutes later and drove 10 miles home gently with no recurrence of the temperature light or fan speed.

I was surprised by many of the codes, but I'm most worried about 00377A. My assumption was this was the start of the water pump issues I've been fearing from what's been posted here, so I ordered a water pump replacement kit, which I'm pulling and installing this weekend.

Is there anything else this cooling code could indicate? Anything I should do beyond the pump / thermostat replacement?

Motor Control:

Throttle angle - intake manifold absolute pressure, comparison, pressure too high
0028A0

Engine cooling system: shutdown coolant pump for blocking
00377A

Instrument Cluster:

CAN signal fault engine
00A3AD

CAN signal fault cruise control
00A3AF

display engine data failure
00A565

Immobilizer System:

Input P N signal fault from EGS
00A0B1

Interior light failure
00A669

Audio/Navi/Communication:

error Telematics Sim
00A37C

[Havocsteve]

Coolant light would be failing water pump. It happened to me, mine was on it's way out. Would work for 100km then the warning light came on. Start with that, usually many things go wrong with one issue. It might correct everything after the water pump change.

Also, are you pulling ghost codes as well? When I did my PPK update, it showed the old codes for the water pump failing. So I got the guy to reset everything. If it's showing old codes, the water pump might be the only code that's the issue.

[weeeee]

I will fill her up today and reset codes. There was some I think coolant on the pump housing when I pulled it.

[weeeee]

Seems rock solid after replacing the thermostat and pump. Reset all codes and I'm still getting interior light codes, but don't really care

There was some coolant or oil on the pump housing when I pulled it, before draining so it wasn't coolant splashing back. The old pump itself *looked* fine. The impeller was not damaged, I didn't see any grit or shards in the drained coolant. Spun the wheel manually and it felt notchy, but I'm not sure if that's normal.



Hopefully I don't have to worry about this again for another 6 years. Was a bitch job to do with race ramps.

I'll call it successful in two weeks if no problems pop back up.

[juld0zer]

The notchy feeling in the pump is precisely why the DME logged the fault because it detects a negative deviation between the target pump motor speed and the actual pump motor speed. This is a common failure path