small brown spot (in) paint **brand new car**

[gavolant]

So I recently purchased a new AW 135. Today I was washing it for the 2nd time ( car only has 300 miles on it ) and I noticed a small, and when I say small maybe the size of a nail head, brown spot on the paint. I ran my nail across the spot and it seemed to be smooth. Any ideas what this could be ?? If it's on the surface you'd think I'd feel it , and if it's under the clear coat what are my chances of getting BMW to fix it? I really hope its not rust....

Pictures wouldn't turn out right.

[pinmagic]

Originally Posted by gavolant

what are my chances of getting BMW to fix it?

Be careful what you wish for. Do you really think they'd get it right?

[AntonV]

where is the spot? honestly, it could turn into a mess if they attempt to strip & repaint. the match might be terrible when theyre finished. especially because they will use their body shop/guy. I refuse to use dealer bodyshops.

I would definitely bring it to their attention. Maybe if it seems like it will be a bad move, have them install 3m paint protection, on their dollar.

[Greg@DetailedImage]

I'm not sure what it is and a picture would definitely help. Since you said it's very smooth and it doesn't seem like it's chipped it may be rail dust. Often times new cars can have rail dust on them, from their time during transit on a train, or while driving near train tracks. If so you can remove it with a clay bar (DI Packages DI Clay Bar and Clay Lube Combo ). It will safely pull away contaminants like rail dust, road grime, bug smears, etc. and leave your paint very clean. After you are done I recommend sealing or waxing the paint to protect it. If you need any recommendations or additional advice let me know.

[Dackelone]

YuP, I agree. Your best best is to use a high quality clay and see if that does the trick. You will also need to seal or wax the car after claying the car. Use a good detail spray as lube for the clay bar.

Good Luck.

[mosx]

My vote is for rail dust. I had this same issue on my Infiniti G37, a clay bar took it right out.

[gavolant]

unfortunetly the clay bar didnt work. I looked at the spot a little closer and from my best guess its between the paint coat and the clear coat. It's odd because its such a perfect circle, and uniform in color. I'm taking it into the dealer tomorrow to have it documented and have any options available to me presented. Im not going to allow them to repaint, but this way ill atleast know what it is, and if it grows I will have it documented under warrenty.

[Greg@DetailedImage]

It's probably not a bad idea to document it and report it to the dealership. If it's under the clear coat that would be a serious problem. Some words of caution would be that dealers will not have all the answers and know the appropriate steps to take. I've seen some dealers "fix" problems to only make them worse. So just be sure you are comfortable with what they do. I would still suggest using an adhesive remover like the one form 3M and try polishing before letting them have it. If that doesn't work I would be more inclined to let the dealer have at it.

[TOGWT]

Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white

Stages of Corrosive Paint Damage

Stage One- Iron particulates causing surface staining leading to substrate corrosion
Stage Two - Contaminants have permeated the paint matrix causing discoloration and corrosion damage
Stage Three - Particulates and corrosive compounds causing severe damage to the paints resin (binder) system

Signs of Paint Surface Contamination-

• Dark coloured specks
• Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks
• Yellow stains
• Small metal coloured flecks
• Rough texture
• ‘Water spots’ or marks
• Surface etching
• Oxidation

CarPro Iron X - car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys). Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away. This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt

Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) formulated in permanent wave lotion

It is really interesting to see the amount of iron particles residue that will be dissolved by Iron X, despite having clayed the car before hand. This product definitely offers advancement in paintwork decontamination

[gavolant]

Took it to the dealer today to have it documented. It's def under the clear coat, and appears to be some sort of contamination on the paint coat. The paint guy looked at it and said it shouldn't spread and that he could wet sand it out of there, otherwise the whole door would have to be repainted. I chose just to have it documented, if it gets worse I will weigh my options at that point.

[AntonV]

dont let them do it. If you want to go the wet sand route, find the best auto body shop in your area, and let them have a look. have your dealer cover the bill at a shop of your choice.

[sardius]

I got an AW as well and since the day one I've noticed the little "rusty" dots all over the hood. The thing is I tried to remove a couple of them with my finger nail and they did come off. So I figure they are just sitting on top of the clear coat?

[Bruck]

I had those brownish rail dust spots on my AW. They went away with a nice claybar filled afternoon. Be sure to do it right - they should disappear.

[Detailers Domain]

a picture would help but my guess like other are that its rail dust, clay, polish, wax you should be okay.

[gavolant]

I'll work on getting a picture. It is under the clear coat though, and like I said I worked at with with a clay bar with no success. Being that it is under the clear and a PERFECT circle and consistent color I'm thinking it is a bit of lubrication that sprayed onto the paint. Like I said I dont want to repaint the door so my intent was just to have it documented by BMW incase it gets worse.

[Dackelone]

Years ago I used a clay bar kit bought at Walmart. It was a lube and clay bar kit from a well known wax company in the states. It really was shit to work with. Did more harm than good. I will say that nothing beats a high quality clay bar on the paint. I bought some of Phil's Uber Clay bar kit with Adams Detail spray as a lube. It really did a nice job on my paint. I have also used Griot's with good results.

OP, maybe you should try a different clay before you go off in other directions.

[TOGWT]

Corrosion

Brake dust or rail dust are very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle’s paint surfaces.

The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms) Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white