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      07-17-2008, 02:05 AM   #1
wikidpete
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DIY: Passport 8500 x50 Hardwire in 135i Vert

Ok so finally had some time to install my Passport 8500 x50 in my 135i Convertible and hardwire it to the fuse box. Set a few hours to do the install.. It took me longer since I soldered all my connections and used heat shrink for all the connections for a nice clean look..even though you cant see them :biggrin:..

1. Start pulling the pillar trim off. I started from the top and worked towards the dash, there are 2 snap-in 9in blue and towards the dash its a slot and hook type where it slides in. Just take your time and be careful.




Here is another pic with it removed. There are 2 snap-in (in blue) and there is groove and hook type towards the dash.



2. Then I started prying out the light assembly above the rear view mirror. There are hooks on all 4 sides. Start from the front, back right, and left. once its loose you can push in the 2 hooks on the right side and it should flip down. (again just take your time not to scratch anything.. If you have trim removal tool, that will really be handy. I didnt so I found some firm but soft plastic tool that worked for me.



3. Next I removed the passanger visor to make it easier to feed the wire. Remove the 2 screws and there should be a cable for the light switch. Very thin wire so be careful and unplug the connector.




4. Next I started running the cable from the winshield towards across the top, down the pillar and to the fuse box.

For the cable I used some left over stuff I had lying around that was rated for 300volts. it was overkill.. but didnt cost me anything :wink:. I then crimped a RJ-11 connector. Then use the heat shrink to make a nice clean look.




Here is the cable going down the pillar headding towards the fuse box.




Here is the cable now by the glove box. I found that it was easier to just follow the directions in the manual to access the fuse box to save some time instead of removing the entire glove box.



5. I then attached the ground to the bolt on the left and used the add a fuse for the power. I used fuse 8.






Here it is installed.




Another Pic from the bottom. I ran the cable around the window sensor for a nice clean look.






When the cord is not in use.. I tuck it around the window senor and wraps around.




Hope this was helpful and enjoy....
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      07-17-2008, 02:08 AM   #2
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Does it turn off when the car turns off? (e.g., Is fuse 8 a switched one?)

Thanks.
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      07-17-2008, 02:11 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backtoreality15 View Post
Does it turn off when the car turns off? (e.g., Is fuse 8 a switched one?)

Thanks.
Yup.. Its the acc fuse.
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      10-11-2010, 08:32 AM   #4
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could you kindly post the links for the cabling.preferably an online retailer as I just moved to no mans land[sry I am a noob]
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      05-31-2011, 11:10 PM   #5
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Brilliant! This is just what I needed to complete my installation! I couldn't figure out how to remove the A-pillar trim. I just finished up my V1 hard-wiring to the fuse box in my 2011 135i vert. It works perfectly. Now I need to find a better mount that works with the BMW mirror....
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      07-04-2011, 11:21 AM   #6
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Check out http://www.radar-mirror.com/, your V1 display comes integrated into your factory mirror.
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      09-24-2012, 09:52 PM   #7
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Hey,

I can't get the dome light off for the vert. Any more advice? I tried to insert small plastic collar inserts all around and after that used a nail clipper piece covered in tape and a thin microfiber to pry the right side. Maybe I should spring for trim removal pieces?

Thanks
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      09-28-2012, 07:46 AM   #8
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How is the performance of the detector mounted above the mirror like that?

Thanks!
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      11-19-2012, 03:29 AM   #9
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This is interesting, on my last car I used the cigarette lighter for power. How did you connect your power wire to the fuse box? did you buy a special fuse connector?


Looked it up. Fuse tap
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      12-18-2012, 05:31 PM   #10
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Im wanting to do the same thing, the add a fuse comes in two sizes, which size is #8 fuse mini or ato
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      12-19-2012, 06:26 PM   #11
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Do you have a closeup of where you grounded it? I saw a lot of others grounding it to a bolt on the right which they said it required complete removal of glove box. I would do anything to avoid that step
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      03-28-2013, 07:35 AM   #12
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I know this is an older thread but I followed it yesterday and it was perfect. I grounded to that bolt by using a torx bit and an extension so i didn't have to pull the glove box off completely. The clips on the A pillar are sensitive so be careful not to break them. I did and it cost me $2 and a trip to the dealer fro new clips.

Does anyone know what fuse #8 actually is for?
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      03-28-2013, 08:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarrettF
I know this is an older thread but I followed it yesterday and it was perfect. I grounded to that bolt by using a torx bit and an extension so i didn't have to pull the glove box off completely. The clips on the A pillar are sensitive so be careful not to break them. I did and it cost me $2 and a trip to the dealer fro new clips.

Does anyone know what fuse #8 actually is for?
All of the auxiliary connections like USB in the console and cig lighter in console.

I'm trying to figure out how to disassemble the right side of the lower dash to let me wire the remote mute button. I want to put it just under the radio and hvac controls above the ash tray area.
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      04-10-2013, 11:53 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1aze View Post
All of the auxiliary connections like USB in the console and cig lighter in console.

I'm trying to figure out how to disassemble the right side of the lower dash to let me wire the remote mute button. I want to put it just under the radio and hvac controls above the ash tray area.
What wiring option did you use (links)? Did you use the add a fuse option as OP used?
I definitely need to do this, right now I have a curly cable bisecting my car. :\

I am also thinking about buttons or displays I can put in that blank console place holder as well. If you figure out a quick way to disassemble please put up a DIY. I will do the same if I beat you to it.
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      04-10-2013, 12:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLSavage View Post
What wiring option did you use (links)? Did you use the add a fuse option as OP used?
I definitely need to do this, right now I have a curly cable bisecting my car. :\

I am also thinking about buttons or displays I can put in that blank console place holder as well. If you figure out a quick way to disassemble please put up a DIY. I will do the same if I beat you to it.
just buy this:

https://www.escortradar.com/store/direct-wire-cord.html

has a fuse and ground...no need to run to fuse box.

Just tap power from the mirror and you're set.
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      04-10-2013, 12:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLSavage View Post
What wiring option did you use (links)? Did you use the add a fuse option as OP used?
I definitely need to do this, right now I have a curly cable bisecting my car. :\

I am also thinking about buttons or displays I can put in that blank console place holder as well. If you figure out a quick way to disassemble please put up a DIY. I will do the same if I beat you to it.
I realized that while under the dash, the lowest panel just below and behind the glove box comes out quite easily with 2-3 T25 torx screws. This exposes a direct path from fuse panel to the side of the center console, where you can get wires behind and through easily if you wanted to integrate something below the HVAC/Radio controls.

I used the Escort hard-wire kit that i got from the previous owner. I placed the remote mute button just in front of the center console cubby velcro-ed to the underside of the center dash area.

Edit: https://www.escortradar.com/store/di...tcord-red.html
^thats exactly what i used with a fuse-tap with secondary fuse port on it. Tapped into fuse 8 i think which is auxilary.
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      04-10-2013, 12:59 PM   #17
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d'oh, didn't even think about checking if passport supplied the needed wiring.
Thanks for the help guys, doing this as soon as the wiring arrives.
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      04-10-2013, 01:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLSavage View Post
d'oh, didn't even think about checking if passport supplied the needed wiring.
Thanks for the help guys, doing this as soon as the wiring arrives.
Biggest "issue" i found was getting a good spot for a ground. I had very little access behind the fuse box, so i was forced to ground to one of the giant bolts holding the a-pillar air bag on. It works but not exactly what i would call perfect.
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      04-12-2013, 06:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1aze View Post
Biggest "issue" i found was getting a good spot for a ground. I had very little access behind the fuse box, so i was forced to ground to one of the giant bolts holding the a-pillar air bag on. It works but not exactly what i would call perfect.
How do we tap into the fuse box? The end of this connector doesn't simply plug into the fuse (slot 8) does it?

What kind of set up does OP have going on? It looks as if he has a fuse on the side, horizontally connected to his 8 slot.
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      04-13-2013, 08:10 AM   #20
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It's called a fuse tap. Any local auto parts store SHOULD have them. Make sure it's for the smaller size fuse body though. It crimps right onto the bare end of the wire.
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      04-20-2013, 03:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1aze View Post
It's called a fuse tap. Any local auto parts store SHOULD have them. Make sure it's for the smaller size fuse body though. It crimps right onto the bare end of the wire.
So I have an electrical question that should be simple.

Should I keep the fuse that is already included in the hardwire kit even though I'm attaching to an add-a-fuse (AAF)? The AAF came with 3-5-7.5-10 A fuses
The fuse with the hardwire kit is 2A


ABOVE: OR should I cut behind the fuse and simply wire it to the AAF without the extra fuse. Basically I'm wondering if the double fuse would cause any issues.



Thanks for the help!
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      04-20-2013, 04:31 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLSavage View Post
So I have an electrical question that should be simple.

Should I keep the fuse that is already included in the hardwire kit even though I'm attaching to an add-a-fuse (AAF)? The AAF came with 3-5-7.5-10 A fuses
The fuse with the hardwire kit is 2A


ABOVE: OR should I cut behind the fuse and simply wire it to the AAF without the extra fuse. Basically I'm wondering if the double fuse would cause any issues.



Thanks for the help!

DO NOT CUT ANYTHING.

EVERYTHING YOU HAVE IS PLENTY

The escort wiring system is fine for a radar detector. All you need to do is tap to power from the mirror (I forget what wire color it was but I'll find out) and then find a ground (simply a screw) up by the headliner and mirror and you have power with a fuse. This wiring harness doesn't need to be ran to the glovebox. That is the beauty of it.

Look at this video:

[u2b]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=HmVfD55dvLU[/u2b]

EDIT: I used Purple/White in my Z4M
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