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12-06-2010, 07:23 AM | #1 |
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Oil temp takes a long time
So it takes the oil more than 40 mins to completely come up to temp (250F). Now I can't really believe this because the air blows hot very quickly indicating that in fact the engine has warmed up.
The question is then: Does it really take that long or is there something wrong with the sensor/indicator. |
12-06-2010, 08:45 AM | #4 |
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I thought the gauge was broken until realizing it was for oil and not coolant. It takes quite a while for the needle to get off the peg in 50 F weather, and more time to get to 250 F. If the gauge eventually reaches 250 F, it's probably not broken.
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12-06-2010, 08:48 AM | #5 |
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The manual states that you should be ok to rip on it after 210F, it's taking a while here now too as it's in the 20's in the morning. I usually hit operating temp just as I hit my work parking garage
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12-06-2010, 08:55 AM | #6 |
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It take mine quite a while for the oil to come up to operating temperature as well. This is normal as oil does take longer than coolant to reach temp.
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12-06-2010, 10:56 AM | #7 |
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Well by this logic I will never be able to run hard since I will be at my destination by then.
I still think this is goofy. I've never had an engine take that long for the oil to heat up. If the water is getting up to 200F quickly then the oil such not be that far behind. |
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12-06-2010, 11:21 AM | #8 |
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It was 23 degrees last night and on a 300 mile trip in a blizzard my car barely hit 210.
It takes a good 5-10 miles for the car to heat up fully in 60 degree weather |
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12-06-2010, 12:50 PM | #10 |
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Same for me by the time I get to work its just hitting around 210.. not that I care about driving fast at 8am but when I get out of work I would like to get on it a bit but cant
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12-06-2010, 01:12 PM | #11 |
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Interesting article about oil temps. There's a lot of debate out there, but from my quick skimming seems that temps around 210 degrees is optimal...250 may be a bit too high...
http://www.elephantracing.com/techto...emperature.htm |
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12-06-2010, 02:00 PM | #14 |
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My test:
Gentle driving, stoplights and 45MPH driving Ambient temp, 68F. Miles on trip Water T Oil T 146.5 71 146.6 100 147 124 147.5 157 147.7 165 first budge 148 172 148.5 182 149 195 149.2 200 149.5 206 first tick 150 216 150.2 216 2nd tick 150.5 220 150.5 220 3rd tick 151.6 220 4th tick 152.4 224 152.9 224 5th tick 153.6 224 6th tick 154.8 224 7th tick (full temp) |
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12-07-2010, 03:13 AM | #17 |
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40 minutes seems a little too long.
how long does it take for you to get an oil level reading? if there's a substantial difference then there may actually be a problem with the sensor. the oil sensor in the n54; i'm not sure if they did anything different with the n55, serves a dual purpose. it measures the volume of your oil based on an algorithm determining the temperature and expansion of your oil, for lack of a better way to put it. if the sensor ain't working right, the water pump will work continuously which could possibly explain your issue. however, i'm not sure that the oil temp could even reach 250f if your water pump kept working. all this crap has to do with the DME's ability to throw the entire system into the all too familiar "limp mode". any driver who has gone into limp mode probably noticed that all the temp control systems (water pump - oil pump - electric cooling fans) go full tilt when the car throttles down in limp mode. the oil temp drops somewhere in the 180 - 190 range in safe mode. Last edited by mryakanisachoad; 12-07-2010 at 03:50 AM.. |
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12-09-2010, 11:07 AM | #18 |
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As soon as the gauge moves past 180 I'm on it like I stole it Been driving turbo cars for last 10 years, and never had a problem. In fact, never had an oil gauge on them. lol
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12-09-2010, 04:33 PM | #19 |
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12-12-2010, 07:48 PM | #20 |
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Meh..........I have given up looking at the temp gauge that takes forever to move. Everyone knows to take it easy on a cold engine. Factor in the Winter Tires and i'm in the- "take it easy mode" for the next 4 months.
I'm fortunate to have the car in the garage. Start car and let it go threw all of its emission cycles/checks....etc. When the idle drops to 700RPM's i back out of the garage. Double clutch to get in first gear, shift early, double clutch to get to 2nd gear.....etc. Up shift before 2000RPM for every gear.....After 8minutes and 6miles i arrive at work.... Repeat on the way home. Mon to Fri. The weekend is when i do some long drives and look for the gauge to see its position.
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12-13-2010, 11:56 PM | #21 |
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You don't need to wait for the idle to drop that low to get moving. In fact, the manual specifically states "do not turn on vehicle and wait for it to warm up. Immediately begin driving at a relatively slow pace as the engine will warm up quicker this way." That's as close to verbatim as my memory can do.
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12-13-2010, 11:59 PM | #22 |
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Can someone also shed some light on the purpose of double clutching a modern day vehicle with syncros? I may be wrong but ad I understand it, that is a thing of the past and serves no purpose in today's vehicle. I'm always up for a better understanding of how things work though!
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