I was bored this weekend, so I changed the oil.... what happened, what did I find?

jkp1187 · 12-29-2008, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lester

I am using a rather inexpensive made in China floor jack. There is nothing special about it. But it does work. I do have to drive the front wheels onto a couple of old 3/4 inch particle board shelves to get the jack under the jack points. I use a hockey puck to lift under the rubber jack pads.

I have never used the differential at the rear, nor the jack point centre front. That one would not be good for oil changes as it would interfere with where you would want to place the oil catch container.

Oh -- I'd never have thought you'd go under the car with the jack still in place on one of the center lift points. (That would be pretty unsafe, I think.) I assumed you'd raise it using the center points, then lower the car onto jack stands. That's how I do tire changes and other work on my old Impala right now.

That said, I'm starting to think that a $40.00 pair of ramps from Pep Boys sounds like a good investment for oil change purposes.

jkp1187 · 08-02-2009, 10:35 AM

Just a bump for this thread, b/c it was a good one.

I changed the oil in the 135i yesterday. I used the ramps I bought in January, since I hadn't gotten around to getting any of those jack adapters yet. The only problem I ran into was that the car kept pushing the ramps forward when I was trying to drive up.

I assumed at first that the car was just too low for the ramps, but when my wife came and watched, she said nothing was hitting, the car was just pushing them forward when I gave it gas. Hadn't run into this problem with my other cars (both of which are FWD.) Two 50-lb concrete blocks behind the ramps and a lighter touch on the accelerator, the 135i was securely on the ramps.

I also found it very helpful to stick a piece of cardboard opposite the drain plug and hold it in place with duct tape to direct the oil into the drain pan.

I have a Craftsman beam-style torque wrench which is too long to use under the BMW, so I just torqued it to what seemed like a reasonable amount. Ran the engine and then checked the plug afterward, and there were no leaks.

Found that using a normal oil filter wrench over a towel (as was suggested by someone on this forum,) worked well to unscrew the oil filter cap.

Randall41 · 08-02-2009, 01:15 PM

I had the same problem with the ramps. I initially put the ramps on a 14"X14" piece of tool box liner rubber (Harbor Freight), then I hust decided to glue a strip on the ramp to floor points.

oldman · 08-02-2009, 02:56 PM

I too did my first oil change today at 5,000Km. Figured that seeing the first service interval has been reduced to 15,000Km, I would do my own
at 5,000 and 10,000 and then the dealer service at 15,000 then back to me at at 20,000. You get the picture.

I was going to go to the dealer, but he quoted me $240 to do it so I asked what oil they use so he brought out a 1 litre bottle of "Castrol SLX Professional BMW LL01" @ $29.00 a litre.

I rang around and got a quote from Supercheap Auto for 20 litre drum @ $245.00 so I ordered it and it arrived from Melbourne the next day.

Bottom line is I will get 3 oil changes for my $245.00 @ 6.5 litres per time + $34 each for filters x 3. Total cost $347 vs $720 at the dealer.

A saving of close to $375 or half price just for a bit of my time. I wasn't any big deal to do either. I found the oil cap could be remove
by hand without any filter removal tools as could the reverse on tightening it right up to where the green markers line up. I'm 58 and certainly not Superman so I wonder if others have found they could also do it by hand.

The engine plug to drain was also easy to undo and my crush washer ended up in the drain pan as well but it was easy to see that it had gone somewhere due to the fact that the drain plug facia was like shiny aluminium and the crush washer is copper.

Also, like you did, but I used cut out top off a ice cream container in a concave around the drain plus so oil does not run out all over the floor pan as I could see that was definitely going to happen. Old oil was black, but was clean as I could actually see right through it against the sunlight whilst it was draining.

I have a set of old fashioned Castrol oil bottles if you know what I mean. The ones with the screw on funnel type tops with caps. Two of them are 1 litre and 1/2 litre measures so it was easy the do the 6.5 litres except that I had to be very carefull to know how many I had already added so I marked each one off on a piece of paper.

I did use exactly 6.5 litres because that's what it says in the BMW TIS for the N54 as "Oil change volume with oil filter 6.5 litres"

Car started up fine and checked for leaks, checked the oil level through the iDrive as all is well.

audi2bmw1 · 08-07-2009, 01:42 PM

Where is that guy that sells those jackapad inserts??

My135 · 08-07-2009, 02:56 PM

So, what did you find (as your title said)?

jkp1187 · 08-07-2009, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audi2bmw1

Where is that guy that sells those jackapad inserts??

I think this is the guy you're thinking of?

http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...ited/Home.html

Lester · 08-07-2009, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My135

So, what did you find (as your title said)?

Ha - you are the first one to ask! So - what I found was that it was relatively easy to do.

Jimmydean · 08-13-2009, 09:24 PM

you guys just need to get rhino ramps. They're less than 30 bucks. No jacks required. They work fine.

jkp1187 · 08-17-2009, 06:51 AM

@Lester: what sort of jack and jack stand were you using for this task? I don't think the stands I have will work very well in the pre-fab plastic jack pads.

Lester · 08-17-2009, 07:19 AM

I cut some small pieces of plywood to insert into the jack pads, so that they line up flush with the pad. Another trick is a plain old rubber hockey puck.

jkp1187 · 08-17-2009, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lester

I cut some small pieces of plywood to insert into the jack pads, so that they line up flush with the pad. Another trick is a plain old rubber hockey puck.

Got it. But what brand/type of stand were you using? My jackstands look similar to this, and I'm not seeing an easy way to make them work with the pads, even with an adapter.

JHZR2 · 08-08-2010, 06:28 PM

Just did mine, as a 1300 mile break in change and UOA. Easy to do - got the uuc mag plug and filter cap wrench from united, pulled the car up on rhino ramps no problem...

Easy enough car to change oil on - bummer there is no dipstick otherwise I'd do the change via topsider...

Dackelone · 08-08-2010, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldman

I did use exactly 6.5 litres because that's what it says in the BMW TIS for the N54 as "Oil change volume with oil filter 6.5 litres"

I think you might mean... 6.5 quarts.

All six cylinder bmw engines use 6.9 Liters = 6.5 quarts.

EDIT = Ohh yea... I had it reversed! Should be 6.5 quarts or 6.9 liters. Sorry.

JHZR2 · 08-08-2010, 10:16 PM

I'm pretty sure you have it reversed... In our VW which I changed today, the manual requested 5.5L or 5.8 qt. 1L = 1.056qt or so.

Lester · 08-08-2010, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkp1187

Got it. But what brand/type of stand were you using? My jackstands look similar to this, and I'm not seeing an easy way to make them work with the pads, even with an adapter.

Those are identical to the ones I used.

08-02-2009, 10:35 AM	#24
jkp1187 Unindicted co-conspirator 66 Rep 1,734 Posts Drives: to work, mostly. Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania / Detroit, Michigan iTrader: (0)	Just a bump for this thread, b/c it was a good one. I changed the oil in the 135i yesterday. I used the ramps I bought in January, since I hadn't gotten around to getting any of those jack adapters yet. The only problem I ran into was that the car kept pushing the ramps forward when I was trying to drive up. I assumed at first that the car was just too low for the ramps, but when my wife came and watched, she said nothing was hitting, the car was just pushing them forward when I gave it gas. Hadn't run into this problem with my other cars (both of which are FWD.) Two 50-lb concrete blocks behind the ramps and a lighter touch on the accelerator, the 135i was securely on the ramps. I also found it very helpful to stick a piece of cardboard opposite the drain plug and hold it in place with duct tape to direct the oil into the drain pan. I have a Craftsman beam-style torque wrench which is too long to use under the BMW, so I just torqued it to what seemed like a reasonable amount. Ran the engine and then checked the plug afterward, and there were no leaks. Found that using a normal oil filter wrench over a towel (as was suggested by someone on this forum,) worked well to unscrew the oil filter cap.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-02-2009, 01:15 PM	#25
Randall41 Private First Class 12 Rep 121 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i Alpine White Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: DreamLand iTrader: (1)	I had the same problem with the ramps. I initially put the ramps on a 14"X14" piece of tool box liner rubber (Harbor Freight), then I hust decided to glue a strip on the ramp to floor points.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-02-2009, 02:56 PM	#26
oldman . 31 Rep 439 Posts Drives: 09 135i AW Coupe Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NSW Australia iTrader: (0)	I too did my first oil change today at 5,000Km. Figured that seeing the first service interval has been reduced to 15,000Km, I would do my own at 5,000 and 10,000 and then the dealer service at 15,000 then back to me at at 20,000. You get the picture. I was going to go to the dealer, but he quoted me $240 to do it so I asked what oil they use so he brought out a 1 litre bottle of "Castrol SLX Professional BMW LL01" @ $29.00 a litre. I rang around and got a quote from Supercheap Auto for 20 litre drum @ $245.00 so I ordered it and it arrived from Melbourne the next day. Bottom line is I will get 3 oil changes for my $245.00 @ 6.5 litres per time + $34 each for filters x 3. Total cost $347 vs $720 at the dealer. A saving of close to $375 or half price just for a bit of my time. I wasn't any big deal to do either. I found the oil cap could be remove by hand without any filter removal tools as could the reverse on tightening it right up to where the green markers line up. I'm 58 and certainly not Superman so I wonder if others have found they could also do it by hand. The engine plug to drain was also easy to undo and my crush washer ended up in the drain pan as well but it was easy to see that it had gone somewhere due to the fact that the drain plug facia was like shiny aluminium and the crush washer is copper. Also, like you did, but I used cut out top off a ice cream container in a concave around the drain plus so oil does not run out all over the floor pan as I could see that was definitely going to happen. Old oil was black, but was clean as I could actually see right through it against the sunlight whilst it was draining. I have a set of old fashioned Castrol oil bottles if you know what I mean. The ones with the screw on funnel type tops with caps. Two of them are 1 litre and 1/2 litre measures so it was easy the do the 6.5 litres except that I had to be very carefull to know how many I had already added so I marked each one off on a piece of paper. I did use exactly 6.5 litres because that's what it says in the BMW TIS for the N54 as "Oil change volume with oil filter 6.5 litres" Car started up fine and checked for leaks, checked the oil level through the iDrive as all is well.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-07-2009, 01:42 PM	#27
audi2bmw1 Lieutenant 21 Rep 513 Posts Drives: 09 montego 135i/acura vigor Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: IN iTrader: (0)	Where is that guy that sells those jackapad inserts?? __________________ 09 135i montego blue 6speed..RR catch can,CDV,DCI intakes,stett charge pipe and tial bov, the above mods are not installed on my car, i just want to seem cool Devils own water/meth dealer-PM me for info former car/ 2001 audi TT ~290bhp :w00t:
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-07-2009, 02:56 PM	#28
My135 Lieutenant Colonel 85 Rep 1,609 Posts Drives: Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (0)	So, what did you find (as your title said)? __________________ 7/08 135 Coupe, Crimson Red, 6 SP, Sport, Taupe Lette/Aluminum. Performance Mods: JB4 on Map 5, BMS DP Fix V3, Injen polished intake, AR Catless DP, Maddad resonated mid-pipes, aFe exhaust polished tips, ST Suspension Coil Over and Hotchkis front sway bar. Others: BMS OCC, BT Scanner, Mud Flap. Next Mods: AA Front Strut Brace.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-13-2009, 09:24 PM	#31
Jimmydean Private First Class 16 Rep 174 Posts Drives: 128i coupe, bare bones Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: PA iTrader: (0)	you guys just need to get rhino ramps. They're less than 30 bucks. No jacks required. They work fine.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-17-2009, 06:51 AM	#32
jkp1187 Unindicted co-conspirator 66 Rep 1,734 Posts Drives: to work, mostly. Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania / Detroit, Michigan iTrader: (0)	@Lester: what sort of jack and jack stand were you using for this task? I don't think the stands I have will work very well in the pre-fab plastic jack pads.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-17-2009, 07:19 AM	#33
Lester Brigadier General 295 Rep 3,350 Posts Drives: Join Date: Oct 2007 iTrader: (0)	I cut some small pieces of plywood to insert into the jack pads, so that they line up flush with the pad. Another trick is a plain old rubber hockey puck.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-08-2010, 06:28 PM	#35
JHZR2 Major 74 Rep 1,001 Posts Drives: 91 E30, 11 135i cv Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: New Jersey iTrader: (0)	Just did mine, as a 1300 mile break in change and UOA. Easy to do - got the uuc mag plug and filter cap wrench from united, pulled the car up on rhino ramps no problem... Easy enough car to change oil on - bummer there is no dipstick otherwise I'd do the change via topsider...
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-08-2010, 10:16 PM	#37
JHZR2 Major 74 Rep 1,001 Posts Drives: 91 E30, 11 135i cv Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: New Jersey iTrader: (0)	I'm pretty sure you have it reversed... In our VW which I changed today, the manual requested 5.5L or 5.8 qt. 1L = 1.056qt or so.
	Appreciate 0 Quote