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01-02-2014, 07:25 PM | #23 |
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I've run with stock pads in the back and Hawk HT10s up front without any safety issues. The front does so much more braking than the rear, especially under heavy braking where you're transferring huge amounts of weight to the front, and off the rear. I believe Lotus has a car once where they didn't even both putting brakes on the back!
I agree, through, that running the same compound all around would be better. |
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01-02-2014, 07:51 PM | #24 | |
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We're also neglecting that with ABS on, the dangers here of messing up your bias are pretty minor. You can still make things worse, but it'll just increase your stopping distance. Without ABS, the risk with too much rear brake bias is locking up the rears before the fronts, which is difficult to control and can cause a spin. |
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01-02-2014, 11:26 PM | #25 | |
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Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18 https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3 |
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01-03-2014, 09:10 PM | #26 |
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The HT10s were great, but they only latest me two track days at Summit Point Main on street tires - believe I was using Direzza Star Specs. It's possible that the rear brakes were doing a lot less of the braking since the HT10s grab so much more; no way for me to know.
The level of pedal effort to achieve full braking is a lot less with race pads making it much easier to use the full capability of the brakes. |
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01-05-2014, 12:35 PM | #27 |
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That's been my biggest frustration with the OEM pads--they don't fade, they only have moderate dust, but they have almost zero bite in the first couple inches of pedal travel. Really takes a lot of effort to get to 100% braking.
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05-11-2014, 07:21 AM | #28 |
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I need Street pads soon and I'm torn between Cool Carbons, Hawk HPS, and now after reading this thread the DS2500.
I'm leaning towards the Cool Carbons. On another note, what are you all running rotor wise? I want drilled and slotted rotors, but the BMW Performance Rotors are more than I can stomach. |
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05-11-2014, 08:39 AM | #29 | |
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As for rotors, pay the least amount possible, and get blank rotors. I still run my stock blank rotors on my 2011 135i and I track the car., I even sanded then down to remove the rust from the hub, and gave it a couple of coats of high temp spray clear from a can. Last edited by dcaron9999; 05-11-2014 at 05:11 PM.. |
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05-11-2014, 08:57 AM | #30 |
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I know this is not the place but figured I'd mention it here before I list them. Selling a set of slightly used Ferodo 2500s and Carbotechs XP10/12s (might be 8s need to dbl check) will take accurate measurements this week. Both pads perform remarkably well at the track, however, I primarily used the 2500s for the street.
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05-11-2014, 10:19 AM | #31 | |
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Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18 https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3 |
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