[MELB]WTB N54 135i propshaft

[vtl]

Need a spare good condition propshaft to fit my M3 DCT differential into my 135i.

Prefer a N54 135i manual propshaft

Will take a N54 335i propshaft but won't pay much for it since I'll need to do more work in getting it fitted.

Not looking to pay too much for this, I will have to cut off the diff side and weld in my M3 flange onto it.


Located in Melbourne

[froop]

Don't want to cut up your stock one? =P

[vtl]

Originally Posted by froop

Don't want to cut up your stock one? =P

Nah definitely don't want to cut into my stock one. Want a spare so a can revert if I have any issues

[froop]

Originally Posted by vtl

Nah definitely don't want to cut into my stock one. Want a spare so a can revert if I have any issues

I cut up my stock one, so I'm not familiar with prices, but when I did my M3 conversion, for the M3 flange, I purchased a prop shaft from a 740i from the UK. I paid less than $140 purchased and shipped from the UK. An E82 is obviously newer so it might cost a bit more than a 740i, but you never know, might still be cheaper to get one from there.

[DR-JEKL]

What could possibly go wrong cutting up your stock prop???

(Nup still dont have mine fixed, got the bolts though!)

[vtl]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

What could possibly go wrong cutting up your stock prop???

(Nup still dont have mine fixed, got the bolts though!)

Yeah definitely want a stock prop after hearing issues with vibration. I have the counterbalance washer but I want a backup, and also want to be able to revert back to stock and sell the diff separately when I sell the car.

Fingers crossed it gets sorted by swapping the bolts! I have seen its actually possible to drop the diff (and access the bolts) without dropping the exhaust. Means it should be quite easy for you to swap out the counter balance bolts and experiment with the positions.

I am not sure if the ediff will interfere with the test in your case though (running the car on the lift in the air after changing the bolts). Whever I have jacked up the rear wheels and run the car through the gears, the ediff keeps interfering on DSCOFF. But yours has an M3 diff which actually has quite a lot of static preload in the clutches (i can't move the drive flanges of my diff in opposite direction by hand on my M3 diff). Let me know if you want me to code it out for you.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by vtl

Yeah definitely want a stock prop after hearing issues with vibration. I have the counterbalance washer but I want a backup, and also want to be able to revert back to stock and sell the diff separately when I sell the car.

Fingers crossed it gets sorted by swapping the bolts! I have seen its actually possible to drop the diff (and access the bolts) without dropping the exhaust. Means it should be quite easy for you to swap out the counter balance bolts and experiment with the positions.

I am not sure if the ediff will interfere with the test in your case though (running the car on the lift in the air after changing the bolts). Whever I have jacked up the rear wheels and run the car through the gears, the ediff keeps interfering on DSCOFF. But yours has an M3 diff which actually has quite a lot of static preload in the clutches (i can't move the drive flanges of my diff in opposite direction by hand on my M3 diff). Let me know if you want me to code it out for you.

Well at least you're aware of the coloured markings etc!

Oh really I couldnt see the diff flange when I tried to lay under the car as the exhaust is in the way, how would one access the bolts without dropping the exhaust?

Does removing the exhaust all the time damage the exhaust gaskets? I had a new set installed about 12 months prior to my diff retrofit, then after the diff was done Pete said the gaskets were stuffed and needed replacing (BMW charged $220 this time around!)

Yeah that would be great if you could code out the ediff please Vince! (may I also get you to code my car to suit the new LED reverse bulbs?)

I imagine it should be relatively pain free this time since my laptop is 'setup' this time around!

[vtl]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Well at least you're aware of the coloured markings etc!

Oh really I couldnt see the diff flange when I tried to lay under the car as the exhaust is in the way, how would one access the bolts without dropping the exhaust?

Does removing the exhaust all the time damage the exhaust gaskets? I had a new set installed about 12 months prior to my diff retrofit, then after the diff was done Pete said the gaskets were stuffed and needed replacing (BMW charged $220 this time around!)

Yeah that would be great if you could code out the ediff please Vince! (may I also get you to code my car to suit the new LED reverse bulbs?)

I imagine it should be relatively pain free this time since my laptop is 'setup' this time around!

This was actually on a 135i so the exhaust routing might be different on a 335i.

Apparently you can just undo one or 2 bolts for the heat shield and bend it back, giving you enough space to get a wrench on the prop bolts.

A 335i exhaust is a single piece from the downpipipes all the way to the tips. From my experience, downpipe gaskets supplied from the downpipe manufacturer are one time use only. The VRSF ones were rubbish and actually leaked with brand new ones.

The OEM gaskets are really thick, like 5-7mm, I have reused mine as they look a lot better quality than the brand new Rein ones I had which were very thin. No leaks and would be happy to reuse them again.

By memory you were running a BMW PE? Those clamps for the rear section should be reusable no issues. I am not sure where the sections are cut for a PE though so you might need to drop the exhaust from the dps anyway.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by vtl

This was actually on a 135i so the exhaust routing might be different on a 335i.

Apparently you can just undo one or 2 bolts for the heat shield and bend it back, giving you enough space to get a wrench on the prop bolts.

A 335i exhaust is a single piece from the downpipipes all the way to the tips. From my experience, downpipe gaskets supplied from the downpipe manufacturer are one time use only. The VRSF ones were rubbish and actually leaked with brand new ones.

The OEM gaskets are really thick, like 5-7mm, I have reused mine as they look a lot better quality than the brand new Rein ones I had which were very thin. No leaks and would be happy to reuse them again.

By memory you were running a BMW PE? Those clamps for the rear section should be reusable no issues. I am not sure where the sections are cut for a PE though so you might need to drop the exhaust from the dps anyway.

Ahh yes I'm guessing you're referring to Oscar's pic?

I had AR DP's installed initially (their gaskets were OK AFAIK) but yeah Pete said the gaskets were buggered, and I haven't really had my exhaust off too many times so they mustn't last too long...

Yes I have a BMW PE, hated the look of those ugly arse clamps so I had a mate who's a fabricator tig weld the mufflers on.

The exhaust AFAIK would still be in the way if one was to remove the BMW PE mufflers via the clamps on a 335i.

[vtl]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Ahh yes I'm guessing you're referring to Oscar's pic?

I had AR DP's installed initially (their gaskets were OK AFAIK) but yeah Pete said the gaskets were buggered, and I haven't really had my exhaust off too many times so they mustn't last too long...

Yes I have a BMW PE, hated the look of those ugly arse clamps so I had a mate who's a fabricator tig weld the mufflers on.

The exhaust AFAIK would still be in the way if one was to remove the BMW PE mufflers via the clamps on a 335i.

Yeah it was Oscars pic on the facebook group.



Judging from this pic you should be able to just undo the exhaust hangers from the muffler to let it droop a little and just undo a few 10mm screws for the propshaft heatshield. This should allow you enough room to bend the heat shield slightly to get enough access to the bolts. Might be a bit too tight if you wanted to drop the diff but if you want to just swap out some bolts it should be ok

[froop]

When I went underneath my car I was able to clearly see the diff to propshaft join without any issues or needing to remove anything at all. Pretty sure I would have been able to access the bolts too but again, that's on a 135i, not a 335i.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by vtl

Yeah it was Oscars pic on the facebook group.



Judging from this pic you should be able to just undo the exhaust hangers from the muffler to let it droop a little and just undo a few 10mm screws for the propshaft heatshield. This should allow you enough room to bend the heat shield slightly to get enough access to the bolts. Might be a bit too tight if you wanted to drop the diff but if you want to just swap out some bolts it should be ok

Cheers Vince, now G/L finding an oem prop!

What happened with that wrecked 135i in QLD?

As Alex said the prop shafts are very cheap in the UK, perhaps have a look on www.ebay.co.uk