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      03-21-2014, 08:21 PM   #1
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3 stage intake parts, Dry intake

I have the intake, and it looks to have the Y vent hose on it, it came from N51 328I.

Am I correct in assuming that it will only need gaskets, and I'm good to go?


And for you guys with EuroFilters, what is the filter you are using?
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      03-21-2014, 08:43 PM   #2
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Yup just the intake gaskets and any associated hardware(i don't remember but i think there's 3 nuts needed). Stig's install thread would have all the necessary components listed.
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      03-22-2014, 02:29 AM   #3
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This picture is all you need. Here's St|g's thread for install.



There's a few intake options. Stock, aFe, Pipercross, and K&N are all solid options.

Buy what you like, filters are a personal preference. K&N is the only oiled one listed, and it's what I use.
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      03-22-2014, 05:51 AM   #4
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I think this will be the next mod, I'm holding out of do I yellows lol. I see more and more people finding them besides me . I looked before but no luck
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      03-22-2014, 06:31 AM   #5
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Why are airfilters oiled anyway? Is there a benefit?
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      03-22-2014, 10:37 AM   #6
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Yup, as listed in my thread you need the following:


Tools:
1/4" socket driver
1/4" extension
T30 torx
T25 torx
11mm socket
10mm socket
8mm socket
6mm socket
6mm Allen key
Curved pick

Parts:
DISA manifold(should come with adjustors if used) 11617559523
DISA Adjustor unit outside 11617579114
DISA Adjustor unit inside 11617560538
4x manifold hex bolts w/ washer 07119903918
3x manifold hex nuts w/ plate 07129905541
6x(I think they come in a set) manifold gaskets 11617547242
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      03-22-2014, 10:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pothole View Post
Why are airfilters oiled anyway? Is there a benefit?
On road it doesn't really have any benefit. but i use oiled filters on my dirt bikes because the oil helps trap more dirt and dust than a regular non oiled filter. The downside is they're a pain in the ass to clean and you need to give them time to dry before you install if you just freshly oiled them.
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      03-22-2014, 04:19 PM   #8
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2008 BMW 128i  [10.00]
New gaskets
And transfer all your exiting sensors to new manifold keep manifold ones as spares. Unless you have confidance in the used part.
Important- The sensor at the rear of engine bay needs to be cleaned before transfer. This thing has caused some electrical fires at the wires so either use yours but clean it with paper towel or q tip. Or buy new to be safe. I cleaned mine, and did a quick wipe of the other ones near the bottom of manifold

A new throttle body gasket is a good idea too

Also throttle body cleaned spray is a nice idea to give it a quick wipe

Study the donor manifold on the bottom and understand that these torx 37 are hard to reach and will give you the most trouble when lifting manifold out. They connect the electrical wire bundles support arms to the manifold

On the donor manifold. Study the lock system of the vent hoses. Long needle pliers will do the trick. But understand that these hoses probably break at 30 degree bends. So no rush
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      03-22-2014, 04:21 PM   #9
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2008 BMW 128i  [10.00]
Filter I used dry afe euro from the Amazon warehouse not a amazon reseller

BMC from Italy May have dry version too
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"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      03-22-2014, 04:58 PM   #10
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I just use the OE euro filter.

That one pinch and twist vent hose line by the wiring box near the throttle plate is the worst part of the otherwise easy project.
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      03-22-2014, 11:11 PM   #11
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What do I need those screws for?
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      03-23-2014, 02:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
What do I need those screws for?
Attaches manifold to the head. Fresh hardware is always a good idea.
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      03-23-2014, 07:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
Attaches manifold to the head. Fresh hardware is always a good idea.
Don't tell me how to live my life!

Seriously, thanks for the help. I'll order it tonight.
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      03-23-2014, 08:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
Don't tell me how to live my life!

Seriously, thanks for the help. I'll order it tonight.
No problem, I'm just happy to see everyone unleash the N52.
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      03-23-2014, 09:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
Don't tell me how to live my life!
Not telling you what to do, but per BMW on their New Generation 6-cylinder N52:
"Bolts
Due to the magnesium construction, any ancillary components which are attached to the engine exterior are connected by aluminum bolts. The aluminum bolts are needed to prevent contact corrosion. Conventional steel cannot be used in magnesium for any reason. The aluminum bolts can be identified by a blue colored bolt head and their light weight. Also, the aluminum bolts can only be used once and must be replaced after each use.
When replacing components requiring aluminum bolts, torquing procedures must be strictly followed. Torquing procedures include specific guidelines to prevent under or over torquing of the attachment bolts. The procedures are outlined as follows:
• The bolt is tightened to a specific application torque to remove any slack between
the components to be joined.
• The bolt is then tightened using the “angle torquing” method using a specific angle found in the tightening torques section of Web TIS. Also, during any service procedures which involve coolant such as cylinder head replacement, the bolt holes must be blown dry immediately. Coolant must not be allowed to sit in any holes, this prevents any corrosion which could be caused by the coolant coming into contact with magnesium components.

http://www.kneb.net/bmw/E90/04_N52%20Engine.pdf

Cylinder head is aluminum, so you may be OK. Just watch the bolt head color.
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      03-23-2014, 09:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
What do I need those screws for?
Long Screws hold the Disa flaps, I didnt see the need to change them.
I think Stig refers to the nuts and some bolts to that attach manifold to engine.

I'm probably a minority, but I simply re-used mine.
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      03-23-2014, 10:20 PM   #17
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My buddy(mechanic for BMW) that installed mine was surprised when i gave him new hardware for it. he says that on the manifold while they technically should be changed every time, he's used the same hardware multiple times on his without any issues. I just figured it wasn't worth the shot since hardware is cheap.
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      03-24-2014, 01:46 AM   #18
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The bolts are NOT aluminum. You can err on the side of caution, but there's no issue reusing your stock ones.
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      03-24-2014, 06:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daft Auto View Post
The bolts are NOT aluminum. You can err on the side of caution, but there's no issue reusing your stock ones.
Indeed.

At a few bucks though, the downside risk is low in case we are missing some further aspect.
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      03-24-2014, 07:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daft Auto View Post
The bolts are NOT aluminum. You can err on the side of caution, but there's no issue reusing your stock ones.
Cool. I wasn't sure if there was any supporting hardware that went in to the block.
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      03-25-2014, 12:38 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobeballer96 View Post
I think this will be the next mod, I'm holding out of do I yellows lol. I see more and more people finding them besides me . I looked before but no luck
Im installing my Disa this weekend, Once Manny gets my Simon tool and my tune too me, You can go for a ride to see the difference.
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      03-31-2014, 11:49 AM   #22
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So nervous on this, I hope I don't screw it up. I hire some help though, so we'll see.
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