Replacing my 128 front pads at 32K. What else?

[NVHoo]

My 2011 128 vert's pad light went on at 32K. Are the rotors usually OK at this mileage so I just have to do the pads? What is the minimum rotor thickness spec for replacement? Also, will I need to turn the rotors? Audi recommends that rotors should never be turned on my TT so I'm wondering what BMW recommends. Finally, is the 128 like most cars that the fronts wear out about twice as much as the rears, or will I soon need rears too?

Did a search on "brakes" on this forum for the last 2 years and found nothing.

Thanks

[NVHoo]

Ok, did a search on "rotors' here and on the internet and got some information. BMW rotors are soft and may need to be replaced with the pads, all depends on how much rotor thickness I have left. The consensus is that BMW rotors should not be turned, only replaced if needed.

I'd still like some feedback on whether fronts and rears wear out about the same time.

[Craig in Alabam]

Hi NVHoo,

The rear pads on these cars will wear faster than some other cars because the ediff is constantly applying the brakes at the rear to simulate an lsd. That's my understanding anyway. Best to pull a rear wheel and check.

Cheers!
Craig

[Lucky1]

Originally Posted by Craig in Alabam

Hi NVHoo,

The rear pads on these cars will wear faster than some other cars because the ediff is constantly applying the brakes at the rear to simulate an lsd. That's my understanding anyway. Best to pull a rear wheel and check.

Cheers!
Craig

Don't think the 128i has an e-diff.
I'd chime in but I went to the BMW Performance Brake package after 55,000 miles. And I don't know if when I picked it up BMW had replaced the pads for CPO. But I went to 55,000 miles before the front pads gave out. Rears were still good. Then I went to 110,000 miles before the front performance package pads wore out (including two intense track says), rears another 10,000 miles later. I replaced all pads but kept the rotors; won't replace them til the pedal starts to vibrate.

I'm a 6MT coupe and I'm not hard on the brakes (imo). My conclusions are my fronts always wear faster than my rears and I can go beyond their replacement on the existing rotors before they need to be replaced. Being in Canuckland my car sees winters but the rotors never rust because it doesn't sit long and is parked in a garage overnight.

[Craig in Alabam]

I'm pretty sure it does. There's lots of info on it, including from our favorite forum:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719012

There are many other posts that discuss it as well.

Cheers!
Craig

[ejm3]

I just had my front pads and rotors done at just ender 50k miles.
Indie shop said BMW rotors are soft and replaced them with Zimmermans.

The rears have plenty of pad left apparently.

[WGScales]

My pads were still good at 66K but I replaced them and the rotors because I just couldn't stand the brake dust any longer. Went with Akebono pads.

[chris_flies]

My rotors, which I think are OEM say 18mm MIN. on the hat (rear). If that helps any... The front ones are filthy, so I don't know about those.

[jlc45]

MHO your should do brake maintenance on any car at least every two years.
This means removing and cleaning and lubricating pads and rotors, even if they look fine and do not require replacement. This will extend pad lifetime and make sure rotors do not seize to the hubs. My previous cars (not BMWs) have gone 100,000 km on a set of pads and never need new rotors.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Lucky1

Don't think the 128i has an e-diff.

The 128i has an e-diff. Its just that a 135i has much more power so the rear brakes get worn almost as fast as the fronts - bc of the e-diff. On the 128i you don't feel the e-diff as often or see the yellow DSC light flash.


OP, minimum rotor thickness is stamped on the rotor hub. Pull a wheel and you will see the stamping specs. If it were me... I'd just buy new rotors as well... they aren't as expensive as on a 135i.

You will also need a new brake pad sensor(only one per axle), new spring clip hardware for the brake pads(usually $15 or so) and a new set screws(2) for the new rotors. Also use a 3M scotch pad or a flex disc with a steel brush/wheel to remove the old rust from the wheel hub. Nothing worse than replacing brakes and not doing the job correctly... only to have brake vibrations 5K later.

Use a flex disc to remove all the rust from the face of the wheel hub... that way the new rotor sits flush on the hub. Also use some brake cleaner on the new rotor before mounting your brake pads.


Watch this video... I really like Eric at SMA... he shows you how important brake hardware really is when doing a brake job...

Dackel

[NVHoo]

Thanks all. Good info