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      02-02-2011, 09:45 AM   #1
gw135i
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Talk me out of it! Thinking of selling 2011 135i Conv...

Things are getting tight and I'm actually thinking of selling my 2011 135i convertible I bought last August. It's loaded with almost everything including the M-sport package... only 7,000 miles.... listed for $49,500....

It's bee garaged for the winter and it's harder to justify keeping it when I'm not driving it ...
Anyone out there in the same boat or have words of encouragement??
Thanks!
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      02-02-2011, 10:05 AM   #2
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Well if its a $$$ issue than you need to look it like an adult and act according. I don't know your money situation but if it changed for the worse since you got the 1er than you need to do what you gotta do.
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      02-02-2011, 10:10 AM   #3
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^^^^^ I agree.... granted, if I had to part with my 1, I'd probably cry like a little girl, but owning one of these cars is a luxury, and in tough economic times, something's gotta give.
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      02-02-2011, 10:14 AM   #4
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I went through this in 2008 when i had to let my 2004 330i ZHP go due to a job layoff. It was tough really tough and I dragged my feet on actually doing it for about a month. I had some great memories in that car plus i wanted to keep it forever since it was the last true 3 series, but sometimes you have to make tough choices as an adult and it does suck.

My advice would be to look at other options like cutting back on other things or even getting a part-timer on evening or weekends at a department store or local Coffee joint. Our cars are much more than transportation to us in a way they are like a toy as well that we just like to have and spend time with. GL
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      02-02-2011, 10:17 AM   #5
gw135i
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The $$ get harder to justify when it's in the garage. I know I can put snows on it but watching the morons in New Engalnd bash into each other all winter, it doesn't make me want to bring it out. I already have a few friends with banged up cars from this winter.....
In hindsight, I probably should have bought a used '08 and modded it. It's older so getting it banged up is not as traumatic and I wouldn't need to argue with BMW about trying to service a 2011 w/mods. Even though everyone says BMW has to fix warranty stuff unless the mod caused the failure, I was told that evey car going into the service bay gets an eval and all mods are noted for the car(at BMW HQ). The end result is that they can refuse to fix it and let us try to find lawyers better than theirs....
Was just thinking about it and figured I'd mention it here...
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      02-02-2011, 10:32 AM   #6
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How about some pictures/description - exterior/interior colors, top color, auto or stick, etc., and how much do you need to get for it?
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      02-02-2011, 10:39 AM   #7
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oops sry.. It's a 2011 135i convertible. Bright red with Taupe leather interrior, DCT, M sport pckg, Premium pckg(NAV, etc), Heated seats and steering wheel, moonlight black top(looks cool in the sun 'cuz it shows as silvery)..
so it has the sport seats, all the voice command foo
It feels like it's been soooooo long since I drove it, I forget what else is even in it!!
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      02-02-2011, 10:41 AM   #8
gw135i
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oh, and it listed for around $49,500... I'd need to clear at least $40k to not bleed all over the place...
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      02-02-2011, 10:53 AM   #9
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You will loose 20-30% by selling your 1 during first year; but you are the only one knows about your own finance situation. You have to do what you have to do. Good luck in your sales.
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      02-02-2011, 12:11 PM   #10
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You will not get $40K for it, especially in the winter. Check Edmunds for used car prices, it is close to what the dealers use. KBB is way too high. The best price will be when the snow melts. Other potential buyers are thinking the same way you are.
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      02-02-2011, 12:21 PM   #11
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Dude. That may not help. For one, you aren't gonna get close to that due to it being used and the 1M being relatively the same price. I would suggest trying to find a new channel of funds somehow. But selling it is gonna be tough and a voluntary repossession is horrible to do. And sadly BMW-NA is not in the business of helping its customers out in thiese situations.
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      02-02-2011, 12:22 PM   #12
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Sell it and buy normal coupe
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      02-02-2011, 12:43 PM   #13
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Edmunds doesn't show a 2011 yet but the stats they're showing on a 2010 w/ same equip is $43,400 dealer retail and $46k CPO.... That's not real either.
Private party was $40k.. on a 2010...
THe dealers up here don't use Edmunds or KBB, they use the local auction pricing....
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      02-02-2011, 12:55 PM   #14
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trade it in for a used 08 coupe that yu considered before and save some money that way.
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      02-02-2011, 02:53 PM   #15
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I am the one that just bought a '11 Vert. Fully loaded from a dealer, 7,700 miles, I got it out-the-door (including all paperwork, all taxes, title, new plates) for $40,000.00. That put the sale price at 37,6xx.xx. The price to build my exact car online now is just over $51,000.00. They didn't seem too happy to let it go for that price, but then again, they did. They had it on the dealership since 11/23/10.

You do have a fairly rare car, in that it is fully loaded. Those are a little harder to find.

If you need to sell, then you need to sell... realizing you will likely sell it for about $37,000.00. Most people aren't willing to pay more for a private sale vs BMW dealer.
Trade in will be less yet.
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      02-02-2011, 03:47 PM   #16
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It's interesting since both KBB and edmunds put "trade-in" at about $37k....for a 2010. The residual value of a 3 year old lease would still be in the low 30's for a car like ours(MSRP up around 50k).
One question I'd have is: did you trade something else in to buy this one? I've bought many new cars where the dealer messes with the numbers to show a better sale price but the real cost is buried in trade in values, etc. If you got it for that clean (or with a cash downpayment) then I'd say you did awesome at haggling there!

As for buying from a dealer or not, a 6 month old car with all of its warranty intact doesn't really matter if I would buy it from a dealer or private sale... unless I just wanted to pay several thousand more!
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      02-02-2011, 04:54 PM   #17
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Don't do it! Negative equity will kill your pockets if you trade in or sell it to a dealer/Carmax, and it's very unlikely that you will sell a convertible car for what you're asking in the middle of winter.
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      02-02-2011, 05:00 PM   #18
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if you are leasing then find someone who can take over the lease. if you paid cash for it, maybe hang on to it for a couple more months until the weather gets a bit better. It's never a good idea to sell a convertible over winter season, you will get a lot of low-ballers and dealership will just b/s you about their concern of not being able to sell the car so quickly and want to offer you extremely low price.

You gotta do what you need to for now and once you get over this problem, you may end up having something nicer!

Cheer up man!
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      02-02-2011, 05:09 PM   #19
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I can wait until spring in any case... I know what will happen then.... I'll finally start driving it again and then they'll have to rip it out of my cold dead hands before I give it up!!!
I envy those of you that can drive it all year. I'd do it if there were less people that drive like morons in the winter here. I can drive a RWD car in the snow just fine.....
I'm fairly new here and starting to like the community.
Anyway, thanks much for the input!
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      02-03-2011, 12:27 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gw135i View Post
I can wait until spring in any case... I know what will happen then.... I'll finally start driving it again and then they'll have to rip it out6k of my cold dead hands before I give it up!!!
I envy those of you that can drive it all year. I'd do it if there were less people that drive like morons in the winter here. I can drive a RWD car in the snow just fine.....
I'm fairly new here and starting to like the community.
Anyway, thanks much for the input!
That's all that's to it: you're just suffering from separation issues.

Hang on, better weather's up soon!!! ... Somebody call Al Gore, what's up with that global warming promise??? Good thing is, So Cal's performing according protocol... Don't hate, I relocated ~6K mi in order to have an AW DD.
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      02-03-2011, 08:14 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gw135i View Post
It's interesting since both KBB and edmunds put "trade-in" at about $37k....for a 2010. The residual value of a 3 year old lease would still be in the low 30's for a car like ours(MSRP up around 50k).
One question I'd have is: did you trade something else in to buy this one? I've bought many new cars where the dealer messes with the numbers to show a better sale price but the real cost is buried in trade in values, etc. If you got it for that clean (or with a cash downpayment) then I'd say you did awesome at haggling there!

As for buying from a dealer or not, a 6 month old car with all of its warranty intact doesn't really matter if I would buy it from a dealer or private sale... unless I just wanted to pay several thousand more!
I walked in with a check and walked out with the car. Clean CarFax, local car traded in for an X5 for the winter. No trade in or other hidden transactions from my deal.

The key to the deal is that I had my three kids (ages 4.5, 3, and 1) tearing apart their dealership! Honestly, they are good kids, but it was getting past lunch and nap time. I'm sure they wanted us out. It also seemed that they felt they were getting a "cusotmer for life"...I do turn over cars quite quickly, but don't have much aligence to dealerships or manufactuers for that matter. This is our first BMW.

As for the dealer vs. private sale...I recently sold a higher price car as a private deal, it can be hard for some to get financing for a private sale, or so it seems. The other issue is simply the safety of a private deal. There are a few threads here (and on any forum) of wierd Craig's List experiences/scams/and the like. Sometimes the dealer's deal is more expensive, but still easier to pull off.
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      02-03-2011, 09:57 AM   #22
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although I dont know your situation, but you cant be that tight.... I mean... you didn't buy a car at 51,000 knowing your bank account only has 60,000 right?

If it's a job loss situation then I very well understand. But if it's pay cuts or what not, then I think it's okay to keep the car.
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