Is this ok what I'm doing? Trans-related.

[BMW135pls]

Lately I've been experimenting with how to drive my 135i from a dead cold engine. After research, I've stopped letting it idle for 5-10m before using featherfooted, and instead do 3 ~10s raised idles to about 1.5k and then drive on my way.

When it comes to the driving, after sufficiently testing both Drive and Sport modes, I've come to the conclusion that although Drive mode keeps the RPMs down sufficiently, it takes forever for the engine to warm up, and that's not good either. Sport mode on the other hand causes the RPMs to climb too high on a cold engine. I've lately been using it in Sport Manual mode, starting from a stop in 2nd gear (I do this regardless, cold or not), and shift at 2.5k or a bit under, and try to keep the cruise RPMs right at 2k or just above, until the engine oil reaches operating temperature. Throttle is of course being feathered the entire time. As a side note, when the engine is warm I'll basically do the same thing, except I'll let it rev to 3k before shifting.

My question is, I've gotten to quite like this way of doing things as it results in an engaging drive that babies the engine and trans until everything is warmed up, and also seems to warm up quickly but in a controlled manner. Any feedback from more experienced owners?

[JimD]

I think you're worrying about it too much. Other than not totally jumping on it while it's cold, you should not have to do anything special for a modern engine to last a long time. You cannot control the fact that there is increased wear until oil flow is established. Once oil is flowing, the only thing the temperature influences is how much oil gets to the lubricated surfaces. Warm oil will circulate a little quicker than cold oil. But the difference is small and unimportant unless you are taking the maximum power from the engine.

That said, I rarely rev my 128i past 3k rpm. When I need to I do it, however, regardless of whether the car is fully warmed up. But it would very rarely happen on a cold engine just due to where I live and work. First few miles are normally quite sedate.

[6MT_Addict]

^^ +1

You're basically doing what many people do with manual transmissions

[Cavpilot2k]

Yeah - letting your car idle until the engine warms up is archaic, unnecessary, and a waste of gas. Just don't get on it hard. I try to keep it under 3k RPM (I'm in a manual) and all is well.

Don't listen to grandpa about needing to let the car warm up before pulling it out of the driveway.

[BMW135pls]

Thank you. Reason I ask is that the mornings have been between 10-25F here the past few weeks, and the engine sometimes takes a bit longer than normal to crank, so I'm overthinking it due to the circumstances. I probably won't go quite this extreme when the spring rolls around.

Any input on the starting from stop in 2nd thing? Not as an occasional thing, and not only when drag racing or something, but from the understanding that it's how I drive the car from every stop, every time I get in. A friend of mine who owns a V8 Mustang MT says you should always start in 1st because the car was designed to do that, but I've put about 125-150 more HP into the engine bay than the car was originally designed for, and frankly I am of the mind that I simply do not have need for 1st anymore. 2nd picks up nicely, not too hard of a response. I find 1st can be too jolty if care isn't taken, and it's very short. I just don't want to cause any extra stress on the trans if that's what it is doing by skipping 1st. Same friend also says that "auto-manual" modes cause lots of stress to the trans and that he doesn't recommend driving it like that all the time. Would that be true only if I were consistently holding onto gears too long or downshifting too early or other stupid things? Assuming good shifting habits, is it safe to drive in that mode all day every day?

[Bimmer-Bob]

I don't get why you bought an automatic if you were going to put so much thought into gear selection? Especially the part about starting in 2nd all the time - just seems like a PITA. Just drive the car, lol.

Anyway, my understanding is that it's okay to be in any gear you want, so long as you don't lug the engine. I don't know how your car is geared, but my 128i 6MT is such that I could pull away from a stop in 2nd if I wanted to with no problems. 1st gear is really short.

[6MT_Addict]

1. As temps drop cranking will become harder. E90 daily saw -45 C (about -48 F) and started fine, albeit wasn't happy. If you still use OEM BMW oil, switch to a zero weight Castrol 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40. The zero weight oil is much easier on the engine for cold (think freezing) starts. As the temp drops, engines will start to complain lol, but it will be fine.

2. I agree with Bob, but rule #1 about the trans software: it will not let you hurt the transmission (think auto downshift when coasting). In D the trans will start in second anyway for economy. Only when you go to DS does it drop into first. You won't be able to go from stop in a gear the trans doesn't like. Try shifting to 5th and pulling away, it won't let you. While learning stick, my buddy made me get the car going in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th to really learn the clutch. It's obviously different in a manual but you can start in any gear as long as you have both the power and patience to do so. As far as power mods damaging the trans, unless you're at like 400-450 ft lbs you'll be fine on stock components. As for your friend with the mustang, he is right... For manual transmissions, that is the popular method, most fuel efficient, and what most people do. But you don't HAVE to always start in first. On that note, one thing you should never do is downshift into first, or at least that's what I was taught. 2nd-6th while moving, shift into 1st from a dead stop (or rolling backwards on a hill lol) only. As for excessive wear... I wouldn't worry. It's got a torque converter so there's a decent amount of give, it's softer compared to a clutch and flywheel if you were to end up in the wrong gear, but like I said the software won't let you hurt it. Maybe if you never shifted above 3rd and spent all your time on the freeway, 3rd would have some abnormal wear but I wouldn't worry. When I had my E90 AT I only drive it in manual mode unless I was hungover or something, did that for two years and it was as smooth the day I sold it as the day I test drove it.

Where you'll end up damaging the transmission is excessive torque produced by the engine. Keep it below 400ft lbs and you should be fine

[davis449]

I start the car, let the RPM's drop (the 5-10 seconds it takes for that to happen) and off I go. I don't jump all over it right away, but I'm not scared to either, i.e. when I have to accelerate quickly to make the onramp to the freeway from the short distance I have on the access road coming out of work after the car's been sitting 8+ hours. Just drive it. The owners manual even says to be prepared to drive off immediately once you've started the car. I think you worry too much, OP. Do you keep up the fluids in the car? If you do, stop stressing and enjoy the car.

[Solo_M_Tech]

Modern automatic transmissions take off in second. 1st is rarely used. You just dont notice it. My advice, put it in drive and drive it. Don't worry so much.

[Bigiggs]

Originally Posted by 1AddictsAnonymous

^^ +1

You're basically doing what many people do with manual transmissions

Precisely

[BMW135pls]

Originally Posted by 1AddictsAnonymous

1. As temps drop cranking will become harder. E90 daily saw -45 C (about -48 F) and started fine, albeit wasn't happy. If you still use OEM BMW oil, switch to a zero weight Castrol 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40. The zero weight oil is much easier on the engine for cold (think freezing) starts. As the temp drops, engines will start to complain lol, but it will be fine.

2. I agree with Bob, but rule #1 about the trans software: it will not let you hurt the transmission (think auto downshift when coasting). In D the trans will start in second anyway for economy. Only when you go to DS does it drop into first. You won't be able to go from stop in a gear the trans doesn't like. Try shifting to 5th and pulling away, it won't let you. While learning stick, my buddy made me get the car going in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th to really learn the clutch. It's obviously different in a manual but you can start in any gear as long as you have both the power and patience to do so. As far as power mods damaging the trans, unless you're at like 400-450 ft lbs you'll be fine on stock components. As for your friend with the mustang, he is right... For manual transmissions, that is the popular method, most fuel efficient, and what most people do. But you don't HAVE to always start in first. On that note, one thing you should never do is downshift into first, or at least that's what I was taught. 2nd-6th while moving, shift into 1st from a dead stop (or rolling backwards on a hill lol) only. As for excessive wear... I wouldn't worry. It's got a torque converter so there's a decent amount of give, it's softer compared to a clutch and flywheel if you were to end up in the wrong gear, but like I said the software won't let you hurt it. Maybe if you never shifted above 3rd and spent all your time on the freeway, 3rd would have some abnormal wear but I wouldn't worry. When I had my E90 AT I only drive it in manual mode unless I was hungover or something, did that for two years and it was as smooth the day I sold it as the day I test drove it.

Where you'll end up damaging the transmission is excessive torque produced by the engine. Keep it below 400ft lbs and you should be fine

If no one mentioned 0w-x oil, that was going to be the next thing I brought up, so I am glad you mentioned it. Any downsides to this over the more standard 5w-x oil? And why the 0w-40 weight oil, I thought 40 weight were mostly for trucks or diesel engines, lol.

I really had no idea that Drive mode started in 2nd gear. Though that does explain why I preferred the response from stop in Drive mode over Sport mode. Very interesting.

About the 400ft-lb thing, is that crank or wheel? Cause my goal with this car build is 400 ft-lb at the wheel, right now I probably have an estimated ~320 ft-lb at the wheel.

[BMW135pls]

Originally Posted by davis449

I start the car, let the RPM's drop (the 5-10 seconds it takes for that to happen) and off I go. I don't jump all over it right away, but I'm not scared to either, i.e. when I have to accelerate quickly to make the onramp to the freeway from the short distance I have on the access road coming out of work after the car's been sitting 8+ hours. Just drive it. The owners manual even says to be prepared to drive off immediately once you've started the car. I think you worry too much, OP. Do you keep up the fluids in the car? If you do, stop stressing and enjoy the car.

A lot of my worrying comes from experience with my past vehicle, a Chrysler Sebring, which I took VERY good care of. I monitored fluids on a weekly basis and took it to the shop when I thought something was off and I couldn't fix it myself, and always paid for preventative maintenance rather than just replace stuff when it was broken. 6 years down the road and spending many times over what I bought the car for in maintenance, my search for a new car ended in a beautiful 135i just at the right time when literally just about every system of the Chrysler sagged or failed at once. It's now sitting in my driveway, won't start, shakes like a chihuahua when its jumped, has a siezed rear caliper, and god knows what else is wrong with it. I mean sure it's a Chrysler, but how different is an apple and an orange really? With the Chrysler I had to floor it to go anywhere, it had no will to live, and really had to go WOT just to keep up with traffic and still outdone by a japan special, so sure that's likely part of the issue. By comparison the 135i can keep up with traffic at 15% throttle, so already it's on a whole other level.

As for the fluids on the BMW, I actually don't know where to begin. The oil chamber doesn't have a dipstick, and frankly I'm afraid to touch anywhere else. I installed the JB4 into the ECU myself, but I'm afraid to check the brake fluid, go figure. Hell at this point I don't even know where to find them if I wanted to. From doing the ECU mod, it seems like BMW has done a lot to keep people out of the engine bay, is this something that I should be doing?

[6MT_Addict]

I use Castrol 0W-30 euro formula exclusively, just my preference. When choosing a new oil make sure it meets BNW LL-01 standards. I find my engine runs better on 0W-30 over the BMW 5W-30, and it's about a dollar a liter less. Only true synthetics are rated as a zero weight oil, BMW 5W-30 is a semi-synthetic oil.

As for the 400 ft lbs number, that's approximate. A friend of mine went past that and damaged his trans. Look around on the forums, it's fairly well documented I would think.

And for oil, there's a sensor. You use the BC stalk to check oil and other vehicle info (or iDrive if equipped) google it, there's vids on YouTube.

BMWs are built to a higher standard than the Sebring lol. Take care of it and you'll be fine. Documented issues are the HPFP, water pump (it will fail eventually, also well documented if you look around here) coils will wear out eventually and plugs will need replacing as well. Waste gates also have issues on some.

BMW has extended the warranty on turbos and HPFP to ten years I believe.

Other than the items above, take care of it. Change the oil every 10-15,000 km, keep up on other maintenance and replace the 'lifelong' stuff like trans fluid/fuel filter at an interval that makes sense. If you tune though, these intervals will all shorten though. Especially spark plugs. Brake fluid is above the brake booster, power steering and coolant are also easy to check. Go buy the Bentley 3 series service manual. All the engine info is applicable to the 1 series, it will answer most of your questions and show you how to properly service the car

[MZWIE]

Manual actually says not to let it idle. Put it in gear and drive away. Of course wait for warm up before standing on it.

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by 1AddictsAnonymous

I use Castrol 0W-30 euro formula exclusively, just my preference. When choosing a new oil make sure it meets BNW LL-01 standards. I find my engine runs better on 0W-30 over the BMW 5W-30, and it's about a dollar a liter less. Only true synthetics are rated as a zero weight oil, BMW 5W-30 is a semi-synthetic oil.

The Castrol 0w30 and Mobil 1 0w40 oils are certainly excellent for most BMW models, but the BMW 5w30 also is fully synthetic, as are many oils that are not 0wXX grade. One of the best oils out there is the Castrol.10w60 as specified for the S54 and other recent history BMW ///M engines. BMW only specifies and supplies fully synthetic oils for current cars, for the 135i in North America they do require an oil that meets their LL01 standard, but LL04 is specified for cars in Europe.

[BrokenVert]

Ive always started the car and let it sit until it it comes down to idle. Then go gently until the oil temp gauge starts to move. 3K max rpm seems to be the number that most abide by, id tend to agree with that. Though I tend to shift short, 2500ish, if theres nobody around me.

Unless its cold outside, then I start it turn on the heat and seat warmers and go back inside for a few minutes. Because I want to sit in a warm car dammit.

[dtwyim]

What I do is, start car, turn on heat, scrape windshield, and drive off gently.

Letting it sit idling too long is not that good since it is only the engine that is warmed up, everything else such as transmission, differential is not. Need all those warmed up before I really stand on it.

[Silenus]

Originally Posted by dtwyim

Letting it sit idling too long is not that good since it is only the engine that is warmed up, everything else such as transmission, differential is not. Need all those warmed up before I really stand on it.

Yes! This is often overlooked. Furthermore, by not driving the engine you're keeping it at a lower temperature for a longer period of time. This is bad. You want to drive the car normally, so you're not sitting at a low operating temperature for an extended period of time.

[Top Gon]

Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob

I don't get why you bought an automatic if you were going to put so much thought into gear selection? Especially the part about starting in 2nd all the time - just seems like a PITA. Just drive the car, lol.

Anyway, my understanding is that it's okay to be in any gear you want, so long as you don't lug the engine. I don't know how your car is geared, but my 128i 6MT is such that I could pull away from a stop in 2nd if I wanted to with no problems. 1st gear is really short.

Some of us have to commute in heavy traffic, so a manual would be a PITA to drive daily. It is quite fun when you're actually driving the car though.

I have an auto and I use manual mode pretty much all the time. The car is more predictable when you select your own gears. The auto also shifts faster (especially with the alpina flash)


Regarding the OP's question: What you're doing now is fine. Don't need to let it sit more than like 10 seconds. Just drive it lightly and you'll be fine.

[Andrewcoja]

While sitting around waiting for your engine to warm up, your brakes are cold, your transmission is cold and your differential is cold. When your engine is warmed up, you take off and beat on it because think it's all warmed up and you're putting stress on everything else that was sitting motionless while warming your engine.

Get in your car, start the engine, wait for the idle to drop and then drive it gently until everything warms up together.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by 1AddictsAnonymous

I use Castrol 0W-30 euro formula exclusively, just my preference. When choosing a new oil make sure it meets BNW LL-01 standards. I find my engine runs better on 0W-30 over the BMW 5W-30, and it's about a dollar a liter less. Only true synthetics are rated as a zero weight oil, BMW 5W-30 is a semi-synthetic oil.

As for the 400 ft lbs number, that's approximate. A friend of mine went past that and damaged his trans. Look around on the forums, it's fairly well documented I would think.

And for oil, there's a sensor. You use the BC stalk to check oil and other vehicle info (or iDrive if equipped) google it, there's vids on YouTube.

BMWs are built to a higher standard than the Sebring lol. Take care of it and you'll be fine. Documented issues are the HPFP, water pump (it will fail eventually, also well documented if you look around here) coils will wear out eventually and plugs will need replacing as well. Waste gates also have issues on some.

BMW has extended the warranty on turbos and HPFP to ten years I believe.

Other than the items above, take care of it. Change the oil every 10-15,000 km, keep up on other maintenance and replace the 'lifelong' stuff like trans fluid/fuel filter at an interval that makes sense. If you tune though, these intervals will all shorten though. Especially spark plugs. Brake fluid is above the brake booster, power steering and coolant are also easy to check. Go buy the Bentley 3 series service manual. All the engine info is applicable to the 1 series, it will answer most of your questions and show you how to properly service the car

Sorry, but BMW 5W-30 is still considered a full synthetic oil. It is LL-01 approved, which only a full synthetic oil can meet the requirements of LL-01.

EDIT: Sorry, I did not see Aero posted the same thing.