BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      01-23-2015, 01:11 AM   #23
Robmaster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Swift Spec-R should lower the back of the car more:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ighlight=swift
for me still too high in the rear compared to the front.
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      01-23-2015, 11:06 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robmaster View Post
for me still too high in the rear compared to the front.
Here is a better photo.
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      01-24-2015, 04:17 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
And the reason is:

1) the suspension bushings on all 5 rear control arms must be loosened and re-torqued at the new ride height, which means a trip to the alignment shop. The suspension bushings add significantly to the total spring rate and affect your ride height if not re-torqued at ride height. If your car is settling, it is most likely because you didn't do this and the bushings are gradually adapting to the abuse.

2) the OE rear shock body is long. As a result the OE bump stop is already engaged at the standard ride height (337 mm to wheel center, or 584 mm measured the BMW way to the wheel rim). When you lower the car, you lean harder on the bump stop, which resists your efforts to lower the car. You need a shorter rear shock and/or a shorter (and stiffer) bump stop to effectively lower the rear.
I tried this and reloosened it all and torque'd it back to spec. Cars sits MUCH better now as well as the handling is noticeably better.
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      01-24-2015, 04:19 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Here is a better photo.
Damn that drop looks very nice
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      01-28-2015, 03:06 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Here is a better photo.
i like the wheels! did you have the specs?? those are the BMW style 37, right?
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      01-28-2015, 02:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robmaster View Post
i like the wheels! did you have the specs?? those are the BMW style 37, right?
That was a customer car Swift used for the R&D. He may be here on this forum.
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      01-28-2015, 08:20 PM   #29
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Would the Swift springs (1 inch drop) be a better choice when running 19s? Like the look of the H&Rs but looks like it would be tight runnning 19s.
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      01-30-2015, 10:10 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BsantosEuro View Post
I tried this and reloosened it all and torque'd it back to spec. Cars sits MUCH better now as well as the handling is noticeably better.
are you going to post new pics? would be nice to see the difference.
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      03-18-2015, 04:08 AM   #31
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sorry guys i had to deploy last minute. won't be back stateside for a quite a few more months. ill update it whenever i get back
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      05-04-2015, 10:16 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
And the reason is:

1) the suspension bushings on all 5 rear control arms must be loosened and re-torqued at the new ride height, which means a trip to the alignment shop. The suspension bushings add significantly to the total spring rate and affect your ride height if not re-torqued at ride height. If your car is settling, it is most likely because you didn't do this and the bushings are gradually adapting to the abuse.

2) the OE rear shock body is long. As a result the OE bump stop is already engaged at the standard ride height (337 mm to wheel center, or 584 mm measured the BMW way to the wheel rim). When you lower the car, you lean harder on the bump stop, which resists your efforts to lower the car. You need a shorter rear shock and/or a shorter (and stiffer) bump stop to effectively lower the rear.
James, should I ask my shop to recheck (loosen/tighten every bolt) with loaded suspension? Ths could explain why my rear end is sitting 20-25 mm higher than the front. I will also be getting Manzo adjustable toe arms installed soon, so might bundle the tasks and alignment together.

As a reference for this thread, Here's my suspension combo: Swift Spec-R springs, Bilstein B8 dampers, Ground Control Street camber plates, Dinan rear shock mounts, M3 front control arms, M3 rear guide rods, and soon ... adjustable Manzo toe arms.
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 05-04-2015 at 10:38 PM..
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      05-04-2015, 10:38 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
James, should I ask my shop to recheck (loosen/tighten every bolt) with loaded suspension? Ths could explain why my rear end is sitting 20-25 mm higher than the front. I will also be getting Manzo adjustable toe arms installed soon, so might bundle the tasks and alignment together.

As a reference for this thread, Here's my suspension combo: Swift Spec-R springs, Bilstein B8 dampers, Ground Control Street camber plates, Dinan rear shock mounts, M3 front control arms. M3 rear guide rods.
I would suggest that when you get an alignment you should ask the shop to loosen and retighten all the bolts at ride height, if your ride height has changed from the last time they were torqued at ride height.

A point of interest - do you know how much rear travel you have at ride height before the bump stop is engaged? If you are sitting on the bump stop at ride height (like the OE suspension) you won't be able to get it to sit lower. You will have to remove the dust shield (a pain, because it means pulling the shock) or pull it up (or down as the design permits) with the car on the ground to see. Alternately jack up the suspension to ride height with the wheel removed and you should be able to check it out more easily.
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      05-04-2015, 11:28 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
I would suggest that when you get an alignment you should ask the shop to loosen and retighten all the bolts at ride height, if your ride height has changed from the last time they were torqued at ride height.

A point of interest - do you know how much rear travel you have at ride height before the bump stop is engaged? If you are sitting on the bump stop at ride height (like the OE suspension) you won't be able to get it to sit lower. You will have to remove the dust shield (a pain, because it means pulling the shock) or pull it up (or down as the design permits) with the car on the ground to see. Alternately jack up the suspension to ride height with the wheel removed and you should be able to check it out more easily.
So what would you do if the suspension is engaging the bump stop at ride height? Is it a horrible idea to cut the bilstein bump stop in half to prevent the bump stop from being engaged at ride height?
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      05-10-2015, 11:30 AM   #35
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I achieved some good lows with my H&R Super Sports.
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      05-10-2015, 11:33 AM   #36
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This is on stock wheels.
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      05-20-2015, 08:46 AM   #37
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I was SO close to getting these installed. Good thing it didn't work out. That's way too low for my taste.
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      05-26-2015, 12:12 PM   #38
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How low are the H&R Super Sport Springs, I'm looking at the super sport springs that are 2.2 inches in the front and 2 inches in the rear. I am just now starting to work on my car and want to start by lowering it. Were those same ones used on your car? (:
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      08-16-2015, 03:25 PM   #39
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yes, I don't recommend them. Nothing wrong with them, just that I've always gone with coilovers and this was my first time dealing with springs.. I didn't think I would miss the benefit of adjustability but they are just too low and hard to play with different wheels and offsets. Even as simply as adding spacers with the stock wheels will be a pain. I've already purchased coilovers and plan on selling the springs once i return from deployment.
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