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01-08-2014, 04:27 PM | #1 |
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Engine stutters after acceleration in 4th...
This has happened to me twice now. No idea what could be the cause of it. When in 4th gear on the highway, I tried accelerating pretty hard. The car did not like it for some reason. It started "sputtering", running rough, and had little power. The Service Engine Soon light came on.
Within 5 minutes, the light goes away and the car is running like normal again. I'm 95% sure I wasn't accidentally in 6th gear. I've since accelerated in lower gears, then in 4th just fine. It is damn cold here; not sure if that added to the cause. Anyone else ever experience this? Ideas?
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01-09-2014, 06:26 AM | #4 |
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Have you had it scanned for history codes? I had a similar incident that ended up being the VVT sensor malfunctioning, so when I would accelerate more aggressively in gear the car would sputter and jerk and lose power.
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01-09-2014, 06:51 AM | #5 |
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I'll have to do that. Happened again on the way into work. If I don't get on it, the turbos still kick in but if I give it a decent amount of gas, it happens.
Not to get ahead of myself, but how expensive of a fix was the VVT sensor replacement?
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01-09-2014, 06:54 AM | #6 |
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Check for codes first. I would look spark plugs coils/injectors. If your plugs are older than 25K miles... I would replace them first. Use BMW bought plugs(only). G.L.
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01-09-2014, 08:06 AM | #7 |
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Yeah...sounds like a misfire problem, and more than likely, new plugs/coils would resolve it. But it could possibly be an injector as well. Codes will tell you more definitively.
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01-09-2014, 08:09 AM | #8 |
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Thanks guys. Will do the code reading and see what comes up.
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01-09-2014, 08:17 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
I had done plugs, coils, vvt sensor, valve cover gasket, valve cover bolts. I think all in all it was ~$700. Granted it was for my 128i, not sure if those prices transverse to 135i. Start with having it scanned though, could be as simple as plugs/coils like others stated. |
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01-09-2014, 09:16 AM | #10 |
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I bought it a few months ago, had a shop I trust go through it and they said it was in great shape. No pending recalls on it and no reported issues. Car had around 46k miles, now just broke 50k.
Will be replacing tranny fluid, read diff fluid, spark plugs from BMW, and cabin filter (not that it matters). Planning on getting walnut blasted when I can afford it; thinking this Spring. This is the one thing that I need to get over with owing the 135i. I always feel a bit on edge and concerned with an expensive repair. A few odd things have happened with the car (not engine related).
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01-09-2014, 05:05 PM | #11 |
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Got the codes after spending almost an hour trying to get the lap top to connect to the JB4. GRRRR!
29D2 - Misfire, cylinder 6. Typically caused by worn out spark plugs, failing coil packs, intake valve build up or failing injectors. Replace as needed. Well that leaves it pretty open. 2F9E 12190 Termic oil level sensor Yesterday I got the oil low message. Added oil last night. Was planning on changing this weekend even though it's early. The Service Engine Soon light came on yesterday before I refilled it. Maybe that's not a valid code or something I need to worry about? Ideas for a plan of attack? I was going to be replacing spark plugs anyway. Better to assume previous owner didn't already and doubt they would have. Any easy way to check the coil pack and injector? I'm sure checking the coil pack would be on the easier to check or just replace list. I hate working on cars, and am far from great at it. Do oil and other fluid changes, calipers, plugs, and basic stuff. Have no interest in getting over my head with DIY stuff. Help! Timing sucks. Our Tahoe just had a CEL come up too.
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01-09-2014, 05:10 PM | #12 |
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An easy way to test out to see if the coil pack is back is to move the coil pack from cylinder 6 to any other cylinder and vice versa. IE move cyl 6 coil to cyl 5. If the misfire moves to cylinder 5 that coil pack is bad. I can't help you out with the other stuff though, sorry.
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01-09-2014, 05:15 PM | #13 |
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Duh. Great idea! Thank you. Stupid question and I'll need to search for a DIY, but is moving the coil pack simple on this car? My other car is a major PITA.
Silly question but... change coil pack location, don't do plugs yet, then reset and attempt situation to see what happens? Will it hurt the car? Tempted to replace the plugs and do the coil pack swap since I was planning on doing plugs very soon anyway. Realize I won't isolate the problem this way though.
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01-10-2014, 03:57 PM | #14 |
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I recently had a problem like this. Since the car was still under warranty, I took it to the dealership.
The first time they said #6 coil was bad. They changed coil and spark plug. A couple of weeks later the same thing happened. This time they said three of the fuel injectors were squirting way too much gas. They replaced all six fuel injectors. Running fine. For now.
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01-11-2014, 01:37 PM | #15 |
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As someone else mentioned to check for coils you can just switch them.
How many miles you have on your car, maybe it is time to change spark plugs. All 6 will cost you 60-70$
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01-11-2014, 03:03 PM | #16 |
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Swapped coil 6 with 2 today. Like to see if it's the coil first.
Will def. be changing plugs after I determine that. I really appreciate the help and guidance. Makes owing the BMW a little less scary.
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