My idrive and car has gone crazy

[DTNJNQ]

While driving to work this morning my idrive screen went blank and then the wipers turned on, then a series of warning lights on the dash and warning screens on the idrive. Some on the warnings were:
Abs and driver assist failure
Tyre monitor system failure
Battery warning
Temp warning

The idrive screen would go blank every now and then. Indicators were not working, wiper going, windows would not wind down.

I managed to drive the car to work as I was not too far away with a lot of turning the ignition on and off.

I tried to drive it home this afternoon and after about a minute it started to do the same thing. I left the car at work.

Anyone else had a similar experience? Any idea what the problem could be?

[woosh]

Does you car have low km's? My fathers old e65 7 series had an ECU crash (similar in nature to yours, but the whole system went blank and crashed) with only 30,000km after 7 years of driving... they partly attributed the error to the car sitting in the garage for way too long between drives. He had to pay $1000 to have it reprogrammed...

Maybe it's a message to jump into that other car you've been looking at (wild guess?) :P

[DTNJNQ]

It's done about 50000km

[RimasRS]

Low Battery could be also the reason. Maybe alternator. Check your battery charge

[Mechz]

I had a bunch of warning lights on the dash and kerb side parkers wouldn't turn off when I had a bad battery. No iDrive but I'd say get RACV out to do a battery check for you.

[RadiuM]

Two people I know have had similar problems, both in 5 series and a battery replacement fixed it.

[DTNJNQ]

Tried to start it today. The car was completely dead. no power. Am currently wait for BMW roadside assistance. Hopefully it's the battery.

[BMW86]

Sounds like it's the battery for sure.

[DTNJNQ]

Battery was changed. Car started however idrive was still showing faults. The mechanic checked the alternator and said it was faulty and over charging. I'M just around the corner from A BMW service centre so will try to drive it there in the morning.

[Dackelone]

Anytime the battery voltage is too low or high... it can cause crazy things to happen. When your Alternator puts out too much voltage or IF the voltage becomes AC and not DC... you can have certain electronic's go bad(blow) in your car. That is what it sounds like to me happened.

When you get your car back... take a VOM (volt ohm meter) and measure across the battery terminals. Engine off and sitting for a few hours you should have at least 12.6 volts with a good battery. With the engine running... you should have at least 13.5 volts (DC) across the battery terminals. Also... measure AC VOLTS across the battery... you should have NO MORE than ONE AC volt with the engine running or rev'd up.

[Mechz]

I thought after a battery change you had to let the car sit for 12-24 hours for all the codes to clear themselves?

[DTNJNQ]

The car is with BMW at the moment. They have advised that it is the alternator and needs a new battery. The cost is $2500.
I will question the need for a new battery as I paid BMW roadside assist $320 for a new battery 2 days ago.

[pavo335]

Originally Posted by DTNJNQ

The car is with BMW at the moment. They have advised that it is the alternator and needs a new battery. The cost is $2500.
I will question the need for a new battery as I paid BMW roadside assist $320 for a new battery 2 days ago.

Then



then



call a tow truck and GTF outa there

[Otaku]

$2,500 is pretty brutal... I would ask them to explain the "cost" properly.

[Blauweisser]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Anytime the battery voltage is too low or high... it can cause crazy things to happen. When your Alternator puts out too much voltage or IF the voltage becomes AC and not DC... you can have certain electronic's go bad(blow) in your car. That is what it sounds like to me happened.

When you get your car back... take a VOM (volt ohm meter) and measure across the battery terminals. Engine off and sitting for a few hours you should have at least 12.6 volts with a good battery. With the engine running... you should have at least 13.5 volts (DC) across the battery terminals. Also... measure AC VOLTS across the battery... you should have NO MORE than ONE AC volt with the engine running or rev'd up.

Checked my car in the garage this morning after sitting overnight (garage temp ~19C) and found 12.5V across the terminals. I'll have to remember to test it again with engine running.

Great info, Dackleone, thanks!