Refreshing the Suspension! 100k

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

You'll definitely need an alignment afterwards, it causes stupid amounts of toe-in, and the steering will over-center and bind. Just tell them to align it to M3 or 1M specs in the front

To be able to safely drive it to the alignment, turn each toe arm rod outward 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This worked so well for me I didn't feel the car needed alignment ( even though it did ).

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by gjm120

To be able to safely drive it to the alignment, turn each toe arm rod outward 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This worked so well for me I didn't feel the car needed alignment ( even though it did ).

I didn't do that , the shop is 2 minutes from my house; it was still an interesting drive, though...

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I didn't do that , the shop is 2 minutes from my house; it was still an interesting drive, though...

I bet.

[Juggernaut135i]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

You'll definitely need an alignment afterwards, it causes stupid amounts of toe-in, and the steering will over-center and bind. Just tell them to align it to M3 or 1M specs in the front

Yea I told them I wanted a performance set up. I'm in love with my set up. I left my shocks at 15/30 stiffness.

You will NEED an alignment. I was actually scared to drive my car after installing.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Juggernaut135i

Yea I told them I wanted a performance set up. I'm in love with my set up. I left my shocks at 15/30 stiffness.

You will NEED an alignment. I was actually scared to drive my car after installing.

Me too! It was exciting. Braking would cause it to veer off to the right, and any steering input over 90* from center caused the wheel to bind/over-center and I had to wrestle it back to center. Fun times.

[ShocknAwe]

You really should either set the toe before driving it, or have it towed. Driving the car with the toe that out of alignment is reckless.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

You really should either set the toe before driving it, or have it towed. Driving the car with the toe that out of alignment is reckless.

It was predictable, though, and the alignment shop is 3/4 of a mile from my house, but, now it is at my house .

[519.E82]

Sorry if its been covered, but im in the exact same boat as you and was going to go the BC route aswell, did you do custom spring rates, and thats not the extreme drop right?

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by gjm120

To be able to safely drive it to the alignment, turn each toe arm rod outward 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This worked so well for me I didn't feel the car needed alignment ( even though it did ).

I dug up my alignment sheet from when I did this early last year, and the front wasn't too far off. The rear was much worse which makes sense as I did nothing to adjust before getting the alignment.

[Juggernaut135i]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Me too! It was exciting. Braking would cause it to veer off to the right, and any steering input over 90* from center caused the wheel to bind/over-center and I had to wrestle it back to center. Fun times.

Yup!!!! Exactly what I had. Reversing out of the drive was the hardest

[Juggernaut135i]

Originally Posted by 519.E82

Sorry if its been covered, but im in the exact same boat as you and was going to go the BC route aswell, did you do custom spring rates, and thats not the extreme drop right?

Not the extreme drop. I lowered it 1 inch which is the minimum. May be 1.25 inch. I love it. Getting lots of compliments on how well the butt looks. Bc is great. Especially for the price. For a DD I wasn't gonna drop 2.5k on JUST coilovers. I also have it set to medium dampness which my friends actually like haha

[02Pilot]

Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k

Question: If installing M3 front control arms, would that most likely necessitate an alignment afterward? I'm thinking probably yes, but I'd like input.

Also, when taking it for an alignment, do I need to let them know that the new control arms add (about -0.75) negative camber so they don't try to correct it?

I just had this done. Going to an alignment guy who knows what he's doing is key; you don't want someone who's just going to plug in whatever the computer tells him to. I was there through the work and we talked about what I wanted and what was possible.

In the end I ended up -0.80 camber in front and -1.60 in the back. I haven't had a chance to put it properly through its paces, but it feels pretty good in normal driving.

[Chris N]

Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k

I'm liking this setup. I was thinking Koni Yellows anyway.
I kinda want to avoid coilovers.

But definitely getting M3 control arms and M3 swaybar.

I've been lurking on the 1 site for a while now. I'm picking up a 2011 128i for a DD so I can save my M4 from the wear & tear. I have some parts from my 2015 M4, including the original front swaybar. Are you saying this might fit or is it too late of a model year?

FWIW - I had Koni Yellows on a previous car (about 5 years ago) and the paint didn't hold up well to the winter salt. Probably would be better served in warmer climates.

[BimmerAg]

Originally Posted by Chris N

I've been lurking on the 1 site for a while now. I'm picking up a 2011 128i for a DD so I can save my M4 from the wear & tear. I have some parts from my 2015 M4, including the original front swaybar. Are you saying this might fit or is it too late of a model year?

FWIW - I had Koni Yellows on a previous car (about 5 years ago) and the paint didn't hold up well to the winter salt. Probably would be better served in warmer climates.

Too late of a model. Some of the E9X M3 parts do fit the 1 series though, and are popular upgrades, specifically the front control arms and sway bar.