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10-10-2013, 01:42 AM | #24 | |
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10-10-2013, 06:59 AM | #25 |
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I tried bedding the pads agressively a second time, while following instructions on CoolCarbon's web site. The pulsation was back at the end of both cycles of 15 stops, but only around that point. After cool down and during the first 10+ hard stops or so, braking was pretty powerful, and gradual.
I did not remove my Titanium shields, but might try that to see if heat is then better dissipated into the caliper and brake fluid. I just hope that I will not fry my caliper piston seals or crack my pistons with heat generated by the "Cool" Carbons. Ive had the car for about 3 months, brought to the track once a week for the last 2 months. During this time, the pads, rotors, caliper pistons and seals survived, and still looked good prior to switching to Cool Carbon pads. Never got any pulsation with my stock pads. I have brand new M3 control arms, all bushings are in perfect shape, and wheel nuts are allways torqued properly with torque wrench. There is no contamination between wheel and hub; all surfaces are clean. I do not feal any vibration during street use, and occasional hard stop, only after successive hard stops, such as when bedding, or track use. My conclusion is that the CoolCarbon may not be the best pad to drive agressively on a 3300 pounds, 300HP car.
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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11-06-2018, 11:22 AM | #26 | |
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11-06-2018, 12:20 PM | #27 | |
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11-06-2018, 01:39 PM | #28 | |
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E82 / BMWP Springs / Koni Yellows / M front control arms / Adjustable front endlinks / M rear guide rods / Whiteline Poly RSFB
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11-06-2018, 04:20 PM | #29 | |
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You might want to check your front control arm bushings. On the front suspension, the thrust rod bushings go bad, and often times people think they have bad or warped rotors. When it fact it is the inner rubber bushing where it attached to the body that is shot. Typically you can feel the steering wheel wobble as you brake light to medium from say 45 mph to 20 mph, with no brake pedal pulsation... that is your front thrust rod bushings shot. You can try using your foot to roll backwards the tire... IF it moves a lot than the thrust rod bushings are shot. But sometimes you need to get the wheel up in the air to check them. But I also understand why you(and I!!) prefer BMW original brake rotors... they just are made of better quality steel, heavier metal than the OEM (aftermarket)brands, like, Zimmerman, Brembo, ebay, etc. Dackel
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11-08-2018, 07:51 PM | #30 | ||
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11-09-2018, 02:33 PM | #31 | |
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You might also remove the brake rotor and check for rust(buildup) between the brake disc and hub. This area should be shinny new steel... and NOT rusty. You could use a flex disc or angle cutter with the correct disc(or 3M scotch pad) to clean up the hub and rotor. You don't want to use a wire brush as this doesn't remove metal, it just polishes it up. You want clean, fresh, flat steel for the rotor to sit flush on the hub. Many people skip over this step when replacing their brakes. See 18:15... ~05:00... IF it's warped brake rotors... you will feel a vibration/pulsation in only in the brake pedal. IF you feel the vibration in the steering wheel(only under braking!) & in car(seat of your pants)... it's a worn suspension component, like the thrust rod bushings. Dackel
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11-09-2018, 04:55 PM | #32 |
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A problem that varies with heat suggests something is binding. The rubber bushings in the calipers can degrade, and if the pins aren't lubed that's only going to make it worse. If only one pin is binding you could get a vibration. Pull the pads and check for irregular wear, and inspect the bushings and pins closely; service as necessary.
A piston binding would be less likely, especially if the fluid has been changed regularly, and that would probably result in a pull under braking, not vibration.
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