|
|
|
04-09-2009, 12:31 PM | #1 |
Colonel
378
Rep 2,067
Posts |
Smell after aggressive driving?
I got 1050 miles on my car currently and with the current cold front in South Florida I have started to get on the throttle instead of waiting till 1200 miles.
After a session of aggressive driving, when I pull up to a red light with the windows down or pull up in my garage, the car smells like shit. Compared to when I drive regular there is no smell what so ever. This is also my first manual car, could the smell be my clutch? I want to make sure i'm not burning my clutch... Or does it smell because the car only has 1050 miles on it?
__________________
2020 X3MC
2009 135i: AW/CR Aluminum Trim, 6 speed, M-Sport, Premium, Heated Seats, Ipod, BMW Performance Pedals, BMW Performance SSK, BMW Performance Exhaust, BMW Performance Grills E93 M3 FSB |
04-09-2009, 02:01 PM | #6 |
Captain
239
Rep 790
Posts |
Plenty of residual material from manufacturing that could be burning off with the higher temps. Aside from that, the clutch has a very distinct smell, and it will often creep into the cabin if you're burning it.
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-09-2009, 02:09 PM | #7 |
Banned
76
Rep 5,970
Posts |
It's probably just the coating burning off the exhaust. It may also be the brakes if you're using them hard for the first time.
Unless you're launching the car from a dead stop it's very unlikely that it's the clutch, and it damn sure doesn't have anything to do with the CDV. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-09-2009, 02:14 PM | #8 |
Most interesting Roadster
69
Rep 2,224
Posts
Drives: '01 Z3.0 Roady;'10 C300 Sport
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Boston 'burbs
|
I had the same weird smell and I don't burn the clutch or brakes. So it's normal with it being new.
__________________
I can't complain, but sometimes I still do........Life's been good to me so far.
- Joe Walsh |
Appreciate
0
|
04-09-2009, 03:51 PM | #10 |
Proud 1er
24
Rep 699
Posts |
I noticed my garage smelled weird for a couple weeks after I got my 135i. I don't recall specific smells while driving it, but it could be related.
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-09-2009, 03:58 PM | #11 |
aka 1013MM
1249
Rep 9,545
Posts |
its the wax melting away.....
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-09-2009, 07:33 PM | #12 |
Private
1
Rep 58
Posts |
i had the same issue yesterday.after babying my car with only 480 miles i decided to take it on the freeway and downshifted from 5th to 3rd and gave it gas.i took it to bout 6000 rpm and back to normal driving.this was only for a min or so but also did smell some burning nasty smell.note that i have a auto so it cant be the clutch.i think its just the stuff they sprey on the engine when new thats burning.nothing to worry bout.
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-09-2009, 08:02 PM | #13 |
Colonel
647
Rep 2,051
Posts |
I seem to recall from another post there are others who experienced the same thing. A very keen 1addicter pointed out that it was likely the chemical they spray the car with to ship it overseas...prevent damage from salt air blowing off the ocean maybe?
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-09-2009, 08:33 PM | #14 |
aka 1013MM
1249
Rep 9,545
Posts |
yes its the wax... if youve own a bmw in the past you would know.
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-09-2009, 09:27 PM | #15 |
Major General
124
Rep 5,627
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-10-2009, 12:35 AM | #16 |
aka 1013MM
1249
Rep 9,545
Posts |
its not normal car was. its the wax they lay on to protect the car from salt water at sea.
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-10-2009, 05:15 AM | #17 |
Captain
31
Rep 683
Posts
Drives: "Bianca" 135cic AW/TC
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: FLL
|
It is the exhaust. It is common. It is not a worry.
What IS worrisome is that you are not waiting long enough to break her in. Granted, the 1 doesn't do the "New Car mineral oil" oil where you are forced to go slow. However, it is HIGHLY advised that you follow the rules of 1) Break-in of 250 miles per cylinder (1500 miles for the 1) 2) No more than 50% acceleration and no higher than 4000rpm for first 500 miles 3) No more than 75% acceleration and no higher than 5000rpm for next 500 miles 4) For remaining 500 miles, still be gentle, but you should punch it here or there. 5) After 1500 miles, go to the dealer and ask him to do the "Chip Reset-Return to Break-In Status" (as it is called on my Dealer Service Report) because your chip will record all that easy acceleration and cut back on your power. Once reset, if you punch it many times for 1 week, it will program the chip to full power. No matter what, the car needs to be broken in gently to let everything settle into place. This set of rules has been around for ages, and I have always obeyed them, and for even my cars that I drove into the ground, it was the car that fell apart and not the engine. I have never had an engine fail on me. Starters, alternators, radiators, clutches, cold-start switches, distributors, etc etc etc, but never an engine.
__________________
2008 135cic, Alpine White/Terracotta Leather/BlackTop, Premium Package (Bluetooth, folding mirrors, etc), Sport Package with M Wheel, Navigation, Logic7 with HD and IPod and Sirius, Steptronic, M Aerodynamic Kit
2001 Focus ZX3, modified for fun commuting Previous 2006 325xi 2002 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro 1997 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro 1984 Audi 4000S Quattro modified 1955 Ford Thunderbird 1969 Camaro modified 1993 Ford Explorer (basic hauling) 1984+1988 Ford Broncos 1993 Honda Civic (Commuter, junk) 2008 Mini (wife's car, AWESOME) A few more |
Appreciate
0
|
04-10-2009, 08:10 AM | #19 | |
Banned
76
Rep 5,970
Posts |
Quote:
Where the HELL are you getting that information? The chip (ECU) most certainly doesn't need to be reset after the break in period and it's damn sure not going to cut power because you're driving conservatively. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-10-2009, 08:54 AM | #20 | |
winter mode
62
Rep 2,057
Posts
Drives: 08 135i, 88 M3
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Somerville, MA
|
Quote:
best advice for break-in: just drive - it's a car, not an egg - but don't drive like an idiot. you can get on it OCCASIONALLY, but don't redline it and make sure the car's warmed up properly. don't slam on the brakes. avoid cruise control or extended driving at constant revs. really, it's just like exercising. if you haven't worked out in a while, you can't just go maxing out on the bench or running 10 miles - you gotta ease into it over a couple weeks. and you gotta warm up first, you're not gonna go out and run wind sprints without jogging and stretching beforehand.
__________________
88 M3: BMWCCA J Sport
08 135: because streetcar |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-10-2009, 10:30 AM | #21 | |
Captain
31
Rep 683
Posts
Drives: "Bianca" 135cic AW/TC
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: FLL
|
Quote:
My family and I first learned of it when my mother complained that her 5Series was really slow. When my brother drove it, he noticed it too. He took it to the dealer, they told him about the chip, they reset it, he drove it from the Service Dept, it instantly had more power. They stated that the chip "learns" how you drive, and if you drive gently, it sets the car for better mileage. If you drive hard, it sets the car for full power. When I was trying to diagnose the issue I had with my last 3Series, they reset that chip multiple times as we were testing. I have Repair Orders stating this, because we wanted the car to try to reach full power because it had a problem with a hesitation in torque. As for your point of it being "needed", I agree, it is not needed. The car can eventually learn to be as fast as possible. I just put that in since people in here want their 1's to be as fast as possible and more. But it is not needed. It is just a nice bit that is easy for the dealer service to do. But if you baby the car for a long time, it will cut power to enter a more fuel efficient mode. It does on the 3 and the 5, and even just driving home in my 1, there was a touch of extra power with the chip reset. As I have said in other threads, this information is relayed to me by BMW Service (Lauderdale BMW and the SoFL Regional Representative). I believe them on some things, and don't believe them on others. I can just tell you that I noticed a difference in my last 3 and now in my 1, and both my mother and brother noticed the difference in the 5 once the chip is reset to factory default. If you can provide BMW-technical information on how that chip works, and what it can or can't do to the engine, that would be a help to all of us. We 1Addicts love our technical information
__________________
2008 135cic, Alpine White/Terracotta Leather/BlackTop, Premium Package (Bluetooth, folding mirrors, etc), Sport Package with M Wheel, Navigation, Logic7 with HD and IPod and Sirius, Steptronic, M Aerodynamic Kit
2001 Focus ZX3, modified for fun commuting Previous 2006 325xi 2002 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro 1997 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro 1984 Audi 4000S Quattro modified 1955 Ford Thunderbird 1969 Camaro modified 1993 Ford Explorer (basic hauling) 1984+1988 Ford Broncos 1993 Honda Civic (Commuter, junk) 2008 Mini (wife's car, AWESOME) A few more |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-10-2009, 10:40 AM | #22 | |
Banned
76
Rep 5,970
Posts |
Quote:
They're full of shit. What the ECU "learns" are ignition and fuel curves, and they're based on A/F ration, and knock sensors. It will advance the ignition until it sees knock, and then retard it. The A/F ratio is constantly tweaked for optimum performance/emissions. The notion that the car learns your driving habits is just outright wrong. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|