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      07-15-2013, 10:40 PM   #1
CL 19
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Do I need camber kits to dial in rear camber?

Planning to buy rear whees that has aggressive offset, which is et44. Going to use 255/30/19 by Michelin and I know most likely it will rub. I plan to do fender roll and whatever it is. One thing come across my mind, which is dial in the rear camber to maybe -1.5.

Do I need other stuffs other than just lift and alignment thing? If yes, what do I need? I'm completely new for camber. Please help me out. Thanks, appreciate any comment.
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      07-15-2013, 10:47 PM   #2
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No.

I'm running -3 camber stock in the rear. Just go get an alignment and tell them what camber you want. Stock max's at about -3 in the rear.
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      07-15-2013, 10:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooler2442
No.

I'm running -3 camber stock in the rear. Just go get an alignment and tell them what camber you want. Stock max's at about -3 in the rear.
Great! Thank you sir. I'll probably need -1.5 for the rear and should be good to go.
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      07-15-2013, 11:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CL 19 View Post
Planning to buy rear whees that has aggressive offset, which is et44. Going to use 255/30/19 by Michelin and I know most likely it will rub. I plan to do fender roll and whatever it is. One thing come across my mind, which is dial in the rear camber to maybe -1.5.

Do I need other stuffs other than just lift and alignment thing? If yes, what do I need? I'm completely new for camber. Please help me out. Thanks, appreciate any comment.
do neither

get your guards rolled, you'll fit it in easy

i measured mine, even with +45 there's WAY more than enough room.

lowered, ET45 with 245's will rub even without your 10mm thicker 135i hubs. with a roll? TONS of room.

ED: i'm also running -1.5 camber rear.

you'll need a roll.
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      07-16-2013, 12:42 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
do neither

get your guards rolled, you'll fit it in easy

i measured mine, even with +45 there's WAY more than enough room.

lowered, ET45 with 245's will rub even without your 10mm thicker 135i hubs. with a roll? TONS of room.

ED: i'm also running -1.5 camber rear.

you'll need a roll.
what is guards roll? So basically I have to roll my rear fender, right? Sorry for newbie questions about fender rolling and camber because I'm totally unfamiliar with those terms and this is my first chance to get a set of 19" wheels. Thanks
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      07-16-2013, 01:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CL 19 View Post
what is guards roll? So basically I have to roll my rear fender, right? Sorry for newbie questions about fender rolling and camber because I'm totally unfamiliar with those terms and this is my first chance to get a set of 19" wheels. Thanks
stick your finger in the rear guard between the tire and the guard.

feel that really thick u-shaped lip?.. that REALLY thick lip?

that gets all squashed as a basic guard roll... slightly more and the lip (you can't see it) gets flared out... and even more aggressive (and now risky) it gets flared out as much as you want (with some cars it can bend in the body around the guard), which becomes very noticeable

if you didn't know how tight fitment was before, you wouldn't be able to tell with mine... however, you can now fit an entire hand in there, where fingertips were a squeeze before.

it's not usually really expensive, you should be able to find a place that'll do it $50/guard~ + callout fee

i paid $200 for mine, but he's the best near where i live, and spent ages on it (about an hour, hour and a half on a saturday morning)... would only have been $250 if i got fronts too, but wasn't needed.
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      07-16-2013, 01:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
stick your finger in the rear guard between the tire and the guard.

feel that really thick u-shaped lip?.. that REALLY thick lip?

that gets all squashed as a basic guard roll... slightly more and the lip (you can't see it) gets flared out... and even more aggressive (and now risky) it gets flared out as much as you want (with some cars it can bend in the body around the guard), which becomes very noticeable

if you didn't know how tight fitment was before, you wouldn't be able to tell with mine... however, you can now fit an entire hand in there, where fingertips were a squeeze before.

it's not usually really expensive, you should be able to find a place that'll do it $50/guard~ + callout fee

i paid $200 for mine, but he's the best near where i live, and spent ages on it (about an hour, hour and a half on a saturday morning)... would only have been $250 if i got fronts too, but wasn't needed.
Okay. Thanks for this great information man!
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      07-16-2013, 01:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CL 19 View Post
Okay. Thanks for this great information man!
no worries!
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      07-16-2013, 05:37 PM   #9
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It all varies a little from car to car. For sure you are gonna need to do some mods if you get those wheels and use PSS 255 rears. So get the tires/wheels installed at an alignment shop. Have them increase your camber up to around -2deg each side, drive it a few mins and see if you need to add more (preferably have another person or two ride in the car with you).
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      07-16-2013, 07:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeman View Post
It all varies a little from car to car. For sure you are gonna need to do some mods if you get those wheels and use PSS 255 rears. So get the tires/wheels installed at an alignment shop. Have them increase your camber up to around -2deg each side, drive it a few mins and see if you need to add more (preferably have another person or two ride in the car with you).
Okay. So let say it rubs after the shop puts -2 in the rear, should dial more camber or just shave or roll it? I heard some guys said dial in camber does not really help when you're still rubbing. Because both of my shops, which are tires shop and body shop are located in the same area so I might just go to the body shop if camber does not really help. Should I set it at -2 at first place or try -1.5 first?
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      07-16-2013, 07:30 PM   #11
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I think you'll need a roll and camber and you'll still rub with 2 or 3 passengers. So I'd go -2 deg camber, assuming you can get that much.

I still rub, mainly on the passenger side, but my car is lowered. I think I'm at -2.7 deg of camber on that side, aggressively rolled/pulled. The problem area is where the fender connects in the back to the bumper. So even though shaving gets you more room, that area is still problematic.
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      07-16-2013, 09:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeman
I think you'll need a roll and camber and you'll still rub with 2 or 3 passengers. So I'd go -2 deg camber, assuming you can get that much.

I still rub, mainly on the passenger side, but my car is lowered. I think I'm at -2.7 deg of camber on that side, aggressively rolled/pulled. The problem area is where the fender connects in the back to the bumper. So even though shaving gets you more room, that area is still problematic.
Okay. Most of the time I drive with my gf, after that I will ask my friend to join to test whether it rubs or not. What is your current setup of wheels and tires? Is it that bad to get no rub?
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      07-17-2013, 05:18 PM   #13
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It's in my signature. Basically my setup is the same as what you will be trying except my car is lowered around an inch. I also removed my rear seat and I have a lightweight battery. Less weight in the rear helps reduce rubbing also.
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      07-17-2013, 05:40 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeman
It's in my signature. Basically my setup is the same as what you will be trying except my car is lowered around an inch. I also removed my rear seat and I have a lightweight battery. Less weight in the rear helps reduce rubbing also.
Okay, just realize about your setup, my bad for not paying attention. If in case I want to lower car using Bilstein B12 pro kit probably about the same as yours, is it really hard to get it without rub? Or I will have no problem as long as I rolled or shaved it correctly?
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      07-17-2013, 07:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
stick your finger in the rear guard between the tire and the guard.
Are you calling the rear fender the "guard"? If not I have no idea what you're talking about.
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      07-17-2013, 07:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stohlen View Post
Are you calling the rear fender the "guard"? If not I have no idea what you're talking about.
yes, sorry, Australian.

looks like you americans usually call it 'fender rolling'?
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      07-17-2013, 08:08 PM   #17
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CL19, you can make those wheels fit without much trouble as long as you run undersized tires. I'm just telling you all this because you are set on running 255/30/19 PSSs. Plenty of other 255/30 or 245/35s will run much smaller and eliminate the rubbing problem. I never rubbed with Toyos 255/30/19 T1Rs even without extra camber and even with passengers.
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      07-17-2013, 10:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeman
CL19, you can make those wheels fit without much trouble as long as you run undersized tires. I'm just telling you all this because you are set on running 255/30/19 PSSs. Plenty of other 255/30 or 245/35s will run much smaller and eliminate the rubbing problem. I never rubbed with Toyos 255/30/19 T1Rs even without extra camber and even with passengers.
Ooo, okay. I got what you're trying to say. I have too much time before buying, that's why so many options left including just buy lightweight 18" wheels, tires, and bilstein b12 but again. BBS is top notch. Thanks!
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